72 K20 Front Axle Seals

[Brian 72 K20]

While looking for new inners seals at the differential, I saw aftermarket seals that fit in the end of the axle tube (wheel side). They were sold by diameter. I didn't pay much more attention to them because not stock. But now after pulling the carrier out to get to the seals, I'm realizing it's a lot of work and I haven't even got it back together.

Has anyone tried these maybe as a back up to the inner seal?

[57taskforce]

I don’t think they would work very good because the outer end of the axle near the CV joint actually moves a good bit forward and backward when turning because it’s not supported in the outer end of the tube by a bearing. The inner seals are a pain in the ass. But that is why the seals are at the inside of the housing rather than the outside of the tubes like a rear axle. Pay the coin for genuine Dana/spicer seals, I’ve had the part store varieties leak less than a year after install. The oe seals last a long time, as much work as it takes to change them the extra cost for OE seals is worth it in my opinion. Might buy an extra or two as well. If you’ve never done them before they can be easy to mess up. I use a long piece of all thread with large washers on the end supported by nuts to drive them in once you get them started. Make sure you put the carrier shims in exactly as they came out.

[kwmech]

AND clean out the tubes before putting anything back together including the new seals. You'll need a bunch of rags, a few cans of brake clean and at least a piece of wooden dowel about 3' long to shove the rags down the tube

[Brian 72 K20]

It's amazing one axle was squeaky clean and the leaking side was filthy. I like the all thread idea. It's strange there were no shims when the carrier popped out just the two races came loose. I read somewhere sometimes the shims on inside the bearings. I'll look today.

Are there any tricks to sliding the axles back in without damaging the seals?

[57taskforce]

Once the tubes are cleaned out put some grease on the ends of the splines and very carefully/patiently/deliberately install the shafts. It’s not as hard as it may seem to get them started. The grease will aid in not damaging them

[Brian 72 K20]

great idea - thanks

I'm having trouble finding the seals. The ones I took out were about 2 1/4" dia and there were also metal collars behind the seals that would seem to guide the axle thru the seal. I ordered a set from Yukon. They look like they would work without the collars that were in there because the Yukon seals have a collar on them that inserts into the axle. I found dana spicer 36352 on Dennys drive shaft but they look like the Yukon ones but a different color.

lmc truck lists a spicer seal but no picture. I might just order those and see what I get.

[kwmech]

620216 is the original spicer number and the national number 5131 which coordinates to the number you have--36352, it's all about branding. National makes the majority of the dana/spicer seals or used to anyways. Personally I like the 5131 and/or 36352 it's a beef seal. When you install the seal--pack the back side with some grease to hold the spring in place so when you shove the axle shaft in it the spring won't pop out.

[Jason Banks]

https://torqueking.com/product/40055...4-front-axles/

There is a newer style seal that doesn't use the metal collar you found. Torque King who I linked is a great resource for the 4wd trucks.

In their tech notes on that page they describe the different seals.

You can also call them for help!

[Brian 72 K20]

thanks, I was beginning to think someone swapped out my front axle

[Brian 72 K20]

one last question. what are the torque value for the carrier? the four bolts that hold the two caps

[kwmech]

60 ft lbs

[Brian 72 K20]

great I won't need a new torque wrench. some of the values I found on line for jeeps were 90-100 ft-lbs. seems crazy high. thanks