47-59 Cross steer setup with I beam

[mr48chev]

I spotted this for sale here locally a minute ago and this setup is similar to what I have been pondering for a while I'm not sure that there is enough clearance for the drag link as is but some artful redesigning should handle that and it at least might get a few folks to figuring out how to make it work.

I'm pretty sure that the steering box is 79 (or that generation) F 150/Bronco 4x4. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...79476850%22%7D

[57tailgater]

I think you may be right on that steering box, or at at least it being a Ford one. Here's a set up I saw once before on the web which I thought was pretty clean. I do not know any of the details, but a few items to note. Steering box inside the frame rail so no need to cut the inner fender. Original column shifter retained. Tie rod appears to be similar to a '70's 4WD Blazer one I had. More than one way to skin a cat!

[mr48chev]

That setup should work good on a TF Clearance for a V8 might be tight though. There wouldn't be room on an AD unless you were running a six.

I'm thinking that on the AD frame I posted you only have to make a passage for the steering column to go through just as with the GM box. In fact a 2 wheel drive manual or power C-10 box could be used for cross steer with the same set up and I am wondering if a modified left side steering arm can be used on the top of the right spindle.

That gives us two ideas though.

[leegreen]

What about the more traditional style of adding PS, first picture in this thread: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...truck.1231467/
I'd try for a longer idler arm and try to adjust the angle off horizontal for the idler so it counters the bump steer from the spring moving the axle forward under compression


For a cross steer setup, I think the version 57tailgater posted is superior to post 1 simply because there is one less tie rod to get in the way of things like exhaust and oil pan

[nvrdone]

I've been thinking about that kind of power steering box but I don't have room for a cross steer tie rod. With the suspension fully bottomed out the tie rod would hit the pan.
Now after seeing that bronco box I'm starting to re think mounting the box all the way forward with the drag link going back to the left king pin.
The only thing I'm concerned is bump steer. I've heard that you have to reverse the spring mounts front to back on the spring to eliminate that problem. Then the shocks have to be pointed back instead of forward.
Any thoughts?

[leegreen]

I used to think the same: box should be at the end of the spring that is fixed, not shackle end. But I'm reconsidering. The critical part is how much the axle moves back and forth relative to the box, and that is the same for either end.

A longer link from the box to axle is better for bump steer and if you angle the arm the right direction it will counter act the bump steer from axle movement.
For this setup, angling the arm down will steer right on bumps and
the axle moving forward in arc from rear hanger and spring extension as it flattens will steer left.
So just balance those two out at ride height and driving straight.

If you are dealing with a springy suspension with lots of travel this setup is not ideal.

[nvrdone]

So I guess the best move would to be to swap the spring mounts. Just need a big drill and some grade 8 bolts

[mr48chev]

if I can sell off some stuff I might go try to make a deal with the guy that has that frame in Yakima.