292 options for temp gauge sender

[leegreen]

I'm swapping my '52 from a 70s 250 to a early 60s 292. With the 250 I had electric fan switch in the water outlet at the front of the head and a temperature gauge sender in a NPT threaded boss on side of head near the carb.

My 292 head does not have a boss for temp gauge. I want to keep fan switch in the water outlet and the 2nd threaded boss on the outlet is needed for the thermostat bypass hose.

My choices are
1) the threaded drain plug fitting way back at lower left rear of block.
2) use a thermostat housing I can tap for a fitting (cold side of thermostat)
3) put a hose barb T into the bypass hose (space is tight with PS pump nearby)
4)?

Any suggestions or comments ?

[geezer#99]

I thought some of the thermo housings were already tapped with an extra hole.
Tapping an extra hole in a housing would be the easist.

[67 twins]

https://www.12bolt.com/store/p157/Th...0_250_292.html


This should do the job. 12bolt.com has anything you need for your straight six. He has used parts as well. He will be glad to help you with anything you need.

[leegreen]

yeah, the thermostat housing with the NPT female would do it, I could move the fan switch there, above the thermostat and put the gauge sender in one of the holes on the water outlet housing below the thermostat. Both my 250 thermostat housings have the boss for that hole, but I'll have to buy a tap.
thanks


I have a another problem to sort, with the power steering on, there is no room to bend a hose into the bypass ports without getting into pulley or belt.

That is 292 water pump and thermostat housing. 250 outlet housing and PS bracketry. The hose routing matches later model 292s, but they must have used different PS brackets. I think I have to make myself a custom 120 degree elbow with tight radius.

[Short 3/4]

If your 250 head is not the later type with integral manifold then it’s interchangeable with the one on the 292.
That may also help with your problem in post #4.
Lots of external parts are interchangeable between the 250 and 292, but keep in mind the thermostat bypass is internal on the 250 and external on the 292.

[leegreen]

I ended up with a bit of a inline collection, A 70s 250 that was in my truck, leaking too much oil and I see evidence head gasket is gone looking inside exhaust manifold, another 70s 250 runner with good compression. Neither are integral intake.
A 70s 292 that runs, but is a greasy lump

This '64 serial numbered 292 that clearly has low miles since a rebuild, I put all new seals, gaskets and a rustoleum rebuild onto it. The head appears to have new valves. It is annoying that this head has neither temp sensor port or rear lifting boss. But it also has higher compression ratio that the other engines, it is 140 psi, the others all 120.

swapping heads won't help my bypass hose issue. reworking the PS to be out further and lower would or I will make a custom hose coupler

[leegreen]

To close off the discussion, here is how I solved both problems in this thread.

I ordered a stainless 5/8 barb-barb 90 degree elbow, cut it in half and rewelded with more bend to suit. I also welded on a threaded fitting to take my temperature gauge sender as that was cheaper and easier than buying a new pipe tap to thread the thermostat housing.

I did not think to take pictures before putting fitting and the radiator on, this is the best I could do:

from in front


and from top


As long as nothing leaks when I get it up to pressure this will work.
Thanks everyone for the ideas.