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Old 01-20-2004, 07:18 PM   #1
Yukon Jack
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Hydraulic clutch and Hydroboost install

Been getting work done on the truck slowly. Got the hydraulic clutch installation basically done last night. Buddy cut me the reinforcement for my firewall with his plasma cutter. Nice piece of equipment.

Another buddy made me the metal shim you see that positions the hydraulic cylinder correctly so the push rod will attach to the clutch pedal.

Got the cylinder mounted on the firewall, threaded the push rod and am using a 5/16" Heim joint to attach the rod to the clutch pedal. Cycles freely and the rod will push in as far as needed. Might have to make a stop to limit the clutch pedal.

Here are some pics.
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Last edited by Yukon Jack; 01-16-2007 at 03:47 PM.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:31 PM   #2
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1970 Blazer with a 400 sbc and 4" lift
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:35 PM   #3
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Looks good. Ya'll do good work.
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Old 01-20-2004, 07:36 PM   #4
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Hydraulic clutch, thats the way to go! Good work.
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Old 01-20-2004, 10:20 PM   #5
Canadian694x4
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This may be a dumb question. So what's the advantage to using a Hydraulic Clutch setup?
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1969 Chevrolet K10 LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 20 Yrs - 1 of 208 Built & Sold In Canada!
- 283 V8/350TH/NP208, 2" All Spring Lift, 32" Good Year MT/R's.
1972 GMC K2500 Custom LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 2 Yrs - 1 of 571 Built & Sold In Canada! - 350 V8/SM465/NP205, 4” Rough Country Lift, 33” Interco TSL Thornbirds
2007.5 GMC Sierra SLE 2500HD 4x4 - Proud Owner For 15 Yrs
- 6.6L V8 Duramax Diesel/Allison 1000, 2" Lift, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's.
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Old 01-20-2004, 11:50 PM   #6
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Very nice looking. It's a major pita setting it up. I did it one time in a '71. Your setup looks way better than mine did. If I was going to do it again, McCloud makes a hydraulic throwout bearing setup that I would use. Good Job!!!
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Old 01-21-2004, 11:30 AM   #7
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The advantage for me using this clutch is having swapped in a big block in my 4x4 and using headers, I would have had to make custom linkage to get a manual clutch working. Still had to do some modifications to make this work but I think this was the easier way. Plus I had all the parts available off the donor vehicle.
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Old 01-21-2004, 02:46 PM   #8
67chevemall
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It must soften up the cluch pedal too! NO?

I don't know about yours, but a long trip 1000miles and my knee is done for 2 weeks!

adjusting rods also sucks!!
How much is that set up!
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:08 PM   #9
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Looks good.Nice to have friends...eh!:p
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Old 01-21-2004, 08:10 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally posted by Yukon Jack
The advantage for me using this clutch is having swapped in a big block in my 4x4 and using headers, I would have had to make custom linkage to get a manual clutch working. Still had to do some modifications to make this work but I think this was the easier way. Plus I had all the parts available off the donor vehicle.
Cool...Thanks for the info Yukon!
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1969 Chevrolet K10 LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 20 Yrs - 1 of 208 Built & Sold In Canada!
- 283 V8/350TH/NP208, 2" All Spring Lift, 32" Good Year MT/R's.
1972 GMC K2500 Custom LWB Fleetside - Proud Owner For 2 Yrs - 1 of 571 Built & Sold In Canada! - 350 V8/SM465/NP205, 4” Rough Country Lift, 33” Interco TSL Thornbirds
2007.5 GMC Sierra SLE 2500HD 4x4 - Proud Owner For 15 Yrs
- 6.6L V8 Duramax Diesel/Allison 1000, 2" Lift, 33" Mickey Thompson MTZ's.
2008 Yamaha Raptor 700r - Proud Owner For 13 Yrs - ITP Mud Lites.
2015 John Deere 1025R - Proud Owner For 6 Yrs - 24HP Diesel/H120/54D/260B/SB1154.
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:48 AM   #11
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Made a change last night to using a clevis rod end rather than the Heim joint. Mainly did it cause I got that setup for the brake pedal booster, but I think with two attachment points on each side of the pedal this will be stronger.

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Last edited by Yukon Jack; 06-24-2010 at 09:34 AM.
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:51 AM   #12
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Next I got the hydroboost brake cylinder hung on the firewall. I had to knock the two lower stud bolts off the pedal assembly and drill a couple holes but no biggie. Probably have to modify how the steering column attaches to the firewall as the brake booster bracket covers one of the attachment holes.

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Last edited by Yukon Jack; 01-16-2007 at 03:35 PM.
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Old 01-23-2004, 11:53 AM   #13
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Mounted the rod to the brake pedal same as with the clutch. The brake booster rod is 3/8" while the hydraulic clutch rod is 5/16". I cut off the end of the brake booster push rod, threaded it and got it connected to the brake pedal using another clevis rod end.

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Last edited by Yukon Jack; 01-16-2007 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 01-23-2004, 02:01 PM   #14
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Hey Yukon, what are you using for a slave cylinder???

Chuck
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Old 01-23-2004, 02:05 PM   #15
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The whole setup (brake booster and hydraulic clutch) came from a donor 1989 1 Ton crew cab.
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Old 01-23-2004, 02:09 PM   #16
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Hey Yukon, this is off the subject but, what kind of headers are you running on that 454?
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Old 01-23-2004, 02:33 PM   #17
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For exhaust I bought Dynomax Cerama-Coated headers. As 67-72 4x4's didn't come with big blocks, I ordered the big block headers for 67-87 BBC 2wd, part no. 86003. Had to massage the engine tower and frame a little, but the headers fit very well now and the collectors should be fine with the transfer case.
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Old 01-23-2004, 02:39 PM   #18
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Thats Pretty Slick Install there.

I have a 68 Im about to have to fab up a hydralic clutch setup I was considering useing a master cylinder off of an 86-87 One Ton Mainly cause its cheap and it mounts flat

Was the rod proper lenght or close to it for your app?

I might look into the newer model If the 87 Gives Me any Problems.
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Old 01-23-2004, 04:12 PM   #19
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I had to cut some of the length off the rod, thread it and put the end on that you see. Just make sure you take time and make sure the push rod will function correctly. I had to lower the hydraulic cylinder to get it in the right position.
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Old 01-24-2004, 01:26 AM   #20
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I was going to take the straitedge off my sqaure and put it on the side of the pedel and mark me a hole that would be pretty even with the area where the rod will hook Thats basically all i lack to have my T5 conversion complete.
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Old 01-24-2004, 11:35 AM   #21
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Looks great Mark! Some first class fab work. Can't wait to see some finished pics.
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