New Intake Manifold Questions...

[75BeauJames]

Have mercy on me, I've driven nothing but imports the past 15 years and never got in to doing work myself until now...

I have a 75 GMC Sierra Classic (Beau James edition) that I'm bringing back to life. Since here in TX we don't have to pass emissions after 25 years, I'm planning on ordering an Edelbrock 2701 Preformer EPS intake to slap on it and go with the Edelbrock 1406 I've already put on. I'd like to strip all the emissions stuff off so that I can learn about the engine at it's core and not with all the add-ons.

So, when I buy the manifold, what all will I need to get? I know I'll need gaskets, a new water neck, and a new thermostat. Is there anything else I need to get?

I was looking at the smog pump today at lunch, and there is one metel pipe running down to the engine's underside, and looks like it plugs in right before the oil pan. I assume I'm going to need to block this off once removed. Does anyone know what I'll need to block it off?

Are there any other emissions related items I need to also think about? The EGR has already been disconnected and plugged (until the non-egr manifold comes in), and I know about the smog pump, the charcoal canister (which I plan to keep), are there any other items that could be removed for simplicities sake?

Any advise would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

Scott

[r0lf-]

To block it off you just need to cap the vaccum lines so you dont have any leaks. Goto your local supply store and get some in various sizes. Your correct about your intake thats pretty much all your going to need. Your new manifold wont have EGR so you can get rid of that too.

Is the EPS the one with the raised plenums? Or is it just a improved version of the performer?

[75BeauJames]

Originally posted by r0lf-
To block it off you just need to cap the vaccum lines so you dont have any leaks. Goto your local supply store and get some in various sizes. Your correct about your intake thats pretty much all your going to need. Your new manifold wont have EGR so you can get rid of that too.

Yeah, I've already blocked all the un-needed vacuum hoses. The only thing I'm concerned about is the smog pump, as it's an actual steel tube running back in to the underside of the engine. I don't think they make plastic cabs that size!

Is the EPS the one with the raised plenums? Or is it just a improved version of the performer?

Not sure if it has raised plenums or not... But from their web site:

Designed for 1986 and earlier 262-400 cubic-inch Chevys, the Performer EPS dual-plane manifold is optimized to deliver superior performance with Edelbrock square-bore Performer Series orThunder Series AVS carburetors. This small-block Chevy manifold has a runner design that’s “tuned” for peak torque around 3500 rpm on a 350-inch engine and it’s ideal for power from off-idle to 5500 rpm. Dyno tests showed gains of 5 hp and 9 ft/lbs of torque over the Edelbrock Performer manifold #2101 on a 350 Chevy. From 3000 to 4500 rpm, the increases averaged 5+ ft/lbs. of torque for more performance where you need it most. Look for the Performer EPS to “up the standards” in dual-plane intake manifold design. Match with a dependable Edelbrock square-bore carburetor for maximum performance gains. See matching Power Package Components. Performer EPS #2701 is designed for maximum performance with an Edelbrock Performer Series or new Thunder Series AVS carb.

Scott

[1FaastC10]

the EPS is just an updated version of the 2101 Performer. as for the line, where does it connect "just above the oil pan"?

[75BeauJames]

I'm going to assume from other smog pump related threads I've read that it's going to the exhaust manifold, but not too sure... Again, this is my first time getting my hands dirty under the hood and I'm still learning which is what!

[78chevstepside]

I would use silicon on the intake instead of the rubber gaskets. Be carefull to get a good seal with the silicon. Or you have a oil leak. Carefull not to use to long of bolt in #4 exhaust intake hole. Its right above a pushrod. Dont ask how I know this lol. I think buying new intake bolts is a good idea. Good luck

[75BeauJames]

Hehe sounds like you know from experience! Thanks for the input! I was planning on replacing the bolts anyway... Figure as long as I'm in there, with the wife screaming "are you done yet???", I might as well replace everything I can!

Was just looking under the hood... The A/C compressor is mounted to the manifold and will have to be removed to switch out manifolds. Since the A/C doesn't work currently, what steps do I need to take to remove it? There are a few pipes coming out of it and I'm sure there should normally be pressure in at least one of the hoses/pipes. Any way to remove the unit safely?

Scott

[NAPCO ken]

to remove the AC pump, the illegal way to do it is crack (barely loosen) the bolt that holds the two high pressure lines into the back of the pump, then let the freon vent to the atmosphere. When it's done hissing, you ready to remove everything else. Why not just retain the AC pump and some day get it fixed? It's gotta get real hot in Austin in the summer!

[1FaastC10]

Scott, i would be real hesitant to do any internal work on an engine if you have never done anything before. there's a lot of stuff in there you can screw up if you dont know exactly what you're doing. do you have any friends who have done this kind of stuff before, and could help you?

[75BeauJames]

Oh yeah, some of mechanics at my company would be happy to do it, and probably for the cost of some Jack Daniels! From everything I've read here and elsewhere, I assumed it would be a straight bolt-on swap and provided I didn't drop anything down in the engine when the manifold is off, figured it wouldn't be too hard to screw up.

[85gmcguy]

Scott- Read the instructions that come with the intake CAREFULLY. Edelbrock usually recommends gaskets on the heads and RTV on the ends (back and front). The easy way to block off that EGR line is called headers. (ha ha)