01-25-2004, 07:52 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Pampa, Texas
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What should i do?
Hey, I am a new member and just would like to say I learn something every time I log on! thanks! but I have a question, I just bought a 1970 Chevy with factory air and buckets and console, and a 402! it runs great but it idles to smooth for my taste I want a little "lope" in it!! has anyone put a cam into a 402 and just really loved the way it performed? and should I go with solid or roller? (sorry if this one has been covered before on a previous post)
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01-25-2004, 07:57 PM | #2 |
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Location: Pampa, Texas
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here is a pic of the engine compartment.. if you guys have any sugestions just tell me!! i like other guys input!!!
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01-25-2004, 07:59 PM | #3 |
Registered User
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Location: stallings,nc
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i would put a hydrallic lifter cam in it if you can afford the extra gas.solid lifters have to be readjusted often.roller cams are expensive and MAY require machining of the block.
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01-25-2004, 08:11 PM | #4 |
Formerly yellow72custom
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Austin, TX
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A hydrualic flat tappet cam would be great. Low manintence, and requires no block machining or anythign. A roller cam and lifters for a small block can easily run over $500 alone, not to mention the block machining that may be required. You should be able to get a nice hydrualic cam and lifters for a little over $100
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01-25-2004, 08:12 PM | #5 |
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depends on how many miles are on the engine if it's a high milage unit i'd say leave it alone putting a more aggressive cam in is just going to hasten it's demise
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01-25-2004, 08:15 PM | #6 |
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Lunati
Comp Crane Puttin in a cam just to lope isnt the wisest idea im not a big block expert so i cant say wheter these cams will require a spring change but its always a good idea to upgrade the springs when changing to a perfomance cam All these cams i posted a kinda mild and shouldnt require a stall convertor |
01-25-2004, 08:19 PM | #7 |
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Yeah I agree with cdowns Its not wise to do modifcations to high mileage engines Just seems like it dont last long afterwards.
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01-25-2004, 08:20 PM | #8 |
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Location: Pampa, Texas
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the motor has about 2000 miles on a rebuild so it is really strong.
i had thought about new upper valvetrain....guess i will need to budget that in too... the list just grows and grows! |
01-25-2004, 08:33 PM | #9 |
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Yeah cam it .. you got dish pistons or flat tops?
Still consider valve springs there too cheap to skip out on and then drop a valve. Your rebuilder might have put a good spring it in already just be sure to check them out or upgrade them |
01-25-2004, 11:13 PM | #10 |
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Location: San Diego
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get the specs on what you have, pistons, heads, CR etc and call around and tell them what you want, they'll let you know what would be best for you..
I have a hydrualic flat tappet cam with a .550 lift, check out the videos. |
01-25-2004, 11:25 PM | #11 |
67-72 truck surgeon
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Indiana
Posts: 155
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Don't put much of a cam in it, you will lose driveability. Look for something that is suited for towing. It will give you a good rumble and add low to midrange power. You don't want anything more than that, trust me... been there done that.
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01-25-2004, 11:26 PM | #12 |
Merciless Butcher
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Location: CC Nevada
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Do you have an automatic tranny and power brakes? Don't go too crazy with the lift and durration. Otherwise you can run into problems with insufficent vacuum for your tranny and brakes....Just a thought to keep in mind when you go shopping.
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01-26-2004, 05:28 PM | #13 |
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Thanks for the input guys, i really appreciate it!! yes i had thought about the vacume issue... will consider that!
Thanks, Rick |
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