Test cut tomorrow.

[nu2-72]

I have been programming the brackets for a rear disc brake setup for my K20's. Should have all programs done tomorrow and will run the first set for measurements. Going to see how well the Plasma does. Wish me luck.

[sakohntr]

You failed to mention how much you are going to sell the kits for? Are you building these for the dana's or eaton's ? Are you using the same front 4x4 calipers ? we need pics tooooo.....

[griesel72]

Cool, i'd be interested in knowing a price for a set. I know that it takes a little scratch for the R and D on a thing like that.

[nu2-72]

Cut one sample in 10 gauge. Will check measurements this weekend and cut a 3/8" plate Monday.
Slipped it over the axle housing and the bolt holes for mounting line up perfectly. I cut 8 holes for different angles. Center hole is nice also. Need to check caliper area.

Bruce, I plan to use the same front caliper and rotor. Spent a little time at the parts store today comparing calipers from a 72 and a 79. Only difference is the line fitting size. 71-79 rotors are all the same. I am building on a 79 14FF axle. I will then check an Eaton 10 bolt.

What are the measurements on a Dana rear axle bolting flange? Square outside and bolts center to center.

And yes the R&D is killer on something like this. They pay me to play around on this equiptment. How's that for a deal?

[teeitup]

With the heat wave were having you need to be outside getting your other work done!! Bring on the 10 inches of snow!!!

[nu2-72]

pic 1

[nu2-72]

It would appear that our Plasma is not capable of the exact cuts that I want. So I am going to have to do a little machining to make them perfect. The outer shape is good, the inner holes are fine too. Only thing is getting the caliper opening consistent. But it still saves tons of time to do this.

[DaHateTank]

ooh ooh ooh I wanna play, too

Here's my test bracket, that I cut from 1/4" plate. I kinda thought your plasma might not be accurate enough for what ya wanna do, but I kept quiet. We've got a couple of 'Hy-Def' plasmas, that are supposed to be REAL accurate, but I think they suck (I'd take one, if they wanted to give it to me, tho...LOL)

I used the Laser to cut this one.

What are ya gonna use for mat'l?? 3/8 cold rolled??

Also, how much spacer didja end up with, between the brake flange, and the bracket. I getting about .875 (thats 7/8s for you non-CNC guys...LOL)

-Marty

[JIMs70GMC]

So basically no out of pocket r and d cost for you. The only perk I have at work is... ... well there aren't any. Those brackets look good, both of them!

[nu2-72]

Yes, plates need to be 3/8". And it looks like .750 on the spacer.
With the correct consumables I will get a better cut. This was done with large cut parts. (1 1/2")
I had to use the ShapeWizard and do three seperate pieces and then overlay them. Gambrel, Convex Rect., and Bolt Flange.
Our Plasma is a Titan and used for production of beam material. Not the most detailed machine but all I have access to right now.
This is for my 14FF axle. I take it you have a drawing? Compare specs? I will get my sheet tomorrow.

[Blue Beard]

What is the minimum kerf that you can use on that setup?

[nu2-72]

Who are you speaking to?
The cut will depend upon torch standoff distance, amps, consumables and kerf setting. I usually run a .115 kerf on this thickness plate.

[DaHateTank]

I got a whole buncha drawings, LOL...

Hadta change it a few times. Came up with a rough shape, by measuring the stock front bracket. Drew it in AutoCad. I don't have a dimensioned drawing, since I just drew it for a cut file..

Yeah, we can get a pretty nice plasma cut, on thinner stuff, but its only spec'd for 1/2 plate, although 1" is possible, if ya start at the edge. I generally figure about .125 for the kerf, on the plasma.

The laser, OTOH, is much higher precision. Kerf on .1875 (3/16) is about .008", and its not much wider, on 1/2 plate, but thats about as thick as it will cut, w/o lookin' like junk. Table is WAY more accurate, IMO, as well.

If we had a mill, and a lathe, Id be totally set!!

.750 huh?? I'll have to try that. Ive got a bit more than .875 (one half inch, and three 10ga plates) in there, now, but it rubs a little.

-Marty

PS: 14BFF

[nu2-72]

Yeah, me too. Really liked the looks of yours so I did a little changing today. These are 3/8". Also a pic of my spacers. I like the idea of full rings.

[nu2-72]

I also have a full machine shop so there are lathes and mills available.

[nu2-72]

See if these work. This is where I got a lot of my info.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/...4843CfpniIPfwm
http://www.off-road.com/chevy/reviews/tsm/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...p?threadid=...

[DaHateTank]

Yeah, I like the spacer rings better than the tubing pieces, as well.

There was some talk, on Pirate, about the brackets failing, and I think the full rings will support the bolts better. However, the source, of said talk, was the company that makes the braked ones, so...

Right now, there's 15" of snow in front of my storage shed (where my 14BFF is stashed) Plus its cold out there!! Time to get some other (less fun) issues handled, I 'spose

-M

[nu2-72]

What did you come up with for the caliper opening? I went to the store tonight and measured a half dozen. Range from 5.315 to 5.355. I think I will buy the calipers and machine mine to fit each one custom. I figure about .005-.008 clearance to allow movement and no binding. Also thinking about TIG'n some blocks out front for more surface area.
What do you think?
I did notice the spacers ( the ones that slide over the mounting bolts) are different on the new calipers. My originals are an inch and the newer ones are much less. That will change the location of the caliper to the rotor and cause differences in flange spacers.

[drink2mny]

Originally posted by DaHateTank
Yeah, I like the spacer rings better than the tubing pieces, as well.

There was some talk, on Pirate, about the brackets failing, and I think the full rings will support the bolts better. However, the source, of said talk, was the company that makes the braked ones, so...

Right now, there's 15" of snow in front of my storage shed (where my 14BFF is stashed) Plus its cold out there!! Time to get some other (less fun) issues handled, I 'spose

-M

I go by Blackbirdscusttruck on Pirates board...I know I posted in one thread about not liking the spacers and seeing them break on occasions. The rings are the way to go for spacing..

The most I'll say in this thread is you guys are on the right track..
Your info is pretty much on the money for anyone interested in building there own..
Just keep in mind even if it works on one 14ff it might not on the next..

The one part I don't understand is the measuring of calipers..
If you plan to use the 1/2 ton front calipers you should be alright, even with the emer caddy calipers..

Unless you are going fancy with different style caliperlike a 4 piston or 2 piston...

[nu2-72]

The purpose ( my thinking) to measuring the calipers is this. There are four surfaces to mount the caliper. Two bolts and two bracing faces. The bolt center to center measurement is one thing, but the caliper opening in the plates is another. Too tight and the caliper will not slide as the pads wear. Too loose and you will move the stress to the bolts.
I do not want locked up brakes and I sure don't want to shear off the caliper bolts or the flange bolts.
As these are single piston floating calipers, I would like them to float. Unlike Corvette where they are fixed and use four pistons, two pushing from each side so that the caliper never needs to slide and the rotor always stays centered.
Yes, No?

[drink2mny]

Your looking to deep into it. This actually is a very simple kit to fabricate..
Take chevy 3/4 ton front backing plates for example.. They fit each and every 1/2 and 3/4 ton caliper without going to a parts store and measuring every caliper..
For most part 90% of the calipers are rebuilt chevy..

I can't tell you what we run for space, but as you stated before you got most of your info on pirates (good info)..

Trust it and test it instead of trying to determine if it will work or not by not having it installed..

Figure for the most part a company that charged almost 600 for a kit included a aluminum spacer and a 3/4 ton backing plate with rotor..
Chevy has it right. take a good measurement off a 3/4 ton front 4x4 backing plate and you will be alright..


Hope this helps..As I said before this thread is a great resource to build this kit..

[nu2-72]

Thanks for the interest. I understand that Chevy plates are mass produced. I want the absolute best I can get and since I am making them and have the time and material, thought I would try to be more precise. I know, over thinking things causes headaches. (read anal) But hey, the freakin weather is cold, I got nowhere else to be, and I'm loosing my mind waiting for Spring.
Seriously though. I am almost done with my set. Did a little machining today at the shop and will finish up on Monday. Then I will post a finish pic.
Check back later.
This is all typed with smile on my face. I appreciate any and all help and constructive advice.

[DaHateTank]

drink2mny,

Thanks for the encouraging asessments. Means alot from someone who is involved, with making these things, on a professional level.

nu2-72,

Actually, I think I made mine too wide, at the caliper mating area. I need to tighten it up a little bit, as I ended up a wee bit wider than the factory bracket, somehow. Don't wanna get 'em too tight, though, as they could possibly bind.

Also, I've got a couple of different style of caliper bolts, and I need to sort that out, as well. When it warms up, Im looking forward to playin' with it some more.

Gotta fab some spring perches, as well. And come up with the budget for some new wheels and tires...

One thing leads to another...

Maybe I should rob a bank...nah, Im too pretty to go to jail...LOL

-M

[nu2-72]

Somone on here had fabbed spring perches from square tubing. Thick wall, pre-formed, looked great. I know that when I use our DK press for bending, the metal sometimes forms small cracks at the outer edges of the bend. Caused by the shear cut and can be lessened by radiusing the edges before bending. But the tubing looks great.
I cut my old ones off with the plasma and reattached them.
Made an angle block for them. Set level and welded. Worked very well.
I will put a pic up later if I get out to the truck and get my parts. 5 degrees and I don't feel like going out right now.

[nu2-72]

Measured angle on the truck and then made blocks to match. Pinned and all.