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Old 02-10-2004, 06:48 PM   #1
jorgensensc
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Now I'm Confused about headlight conversions!

I am sorry to post a thread that has already been discussed, but after I did the search on this topic I see too many different types of lights.
I know others are happy with the lights that Shawn at **************** sells, but they look a little too plain to me. I really like the clear diamond look, but not the tribar.
I want glass also, not plastic, and I absolutely don't want to modify my buckets.
I found these on ebayLink , but don't know if they are any good.
I also don't know one bulb from another, but I don't want the super blue look.
Can someone please help direct me?
I will definately do the relay thing, so should I get higher wattage bulbs. ( I get a full12 volts to my lights now,but I have to drive with the highbeams on all the time to see anything at night)
Thanks for the help, and sorry to redundent.
Shawn
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:02 PM   #2
rage'nrat638
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ADJUST THEM UP

after just putting the 95 amp. internal reg. alt. in my lights are brighter..

i think piston had them diamond type and keeps getting water in them.......

i am waiting for my new lights from shawn to arrive now...
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:15 PM   #3
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I agree completely.

I am in the same boat. I want something that looks updated, but not over the top. I have seen some Hella's that look good, but they are not clear. I would really like some clear ones, but don't want them to look ricey. The Hella's look like probably the best quality I have seen and they are a little clearer than the originals, but they probably have the best light pattern. The ones I found said H4 Super on the front. I know they make several grades and the 70476 ones that I saw on ebay a few times are not them. The biggest problem is that the quality varies so much with the clear ones I have seen and it is hard to tell that when looking at them online. I did see a pair in a friends car that he got from RBSAuto. I think you can find them at www.rbsauto.com. They seemed to be good quality. I haven't decided what's best yet myself.

Tom
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Old 02-10-2004, 07:30 PM   #4
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THE ONE'S FROM SHAWH ARE GLASS.....
the buld fit's in the rear housing like the newer car and trucks do

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Old 02-10-2004, 08:41 PM   #5
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I want to know how these Zoops ones look in the 'cateye' model and how the built in turn signals work - that would rock!!!

http://www.yearwood.com/Lightshtm/ZOPTLT1.asp
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Old 02-10-2004, 08:59 PM   #6
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If you have got only 12V to your haedlight now you most definatly need relays with the engine running you want at least 14V, thats why you can't see anything. I have a set of Hella's, they are glass but not diamond cut. For bulbs I would go with some 80/100W super whites PIAA makes some but the are alot of brands out there. I could not tell by reading the auction if those light on ebay were plastic or glass, the one thing I do know is that they are not HID. All the ricer places advertize HID (like)bulbs but real HID's cost $400-600.
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Old 02-10-2004, 09:33 PM   #7
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Neonlarry,
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the point of an internally regulated alternator was run at a higher voltage to charge the battery, and then run at 12 volts when it was charges. Wouldn't running at 14 volts fry some electrical components made to run on 12 volts? Please explain this to me.

Update. I went ahead and bought the lights from ****************. Shawn is a great guy and explained several things to me, including that his are actually DOT approved, unlike most other conversion kits.
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-What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?-

-I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door-

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Old 02-10-2004, 09:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally posted by jorgensensc


Update. I went ahead and bought the lights from ****************. Shawn is a great guy and explained several things to me, including that his are actually DOT approved, unlike most other conversion kits.
GOOD MAN.... YEA D.O.T. THAT'S IT
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:00 PM   #9
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The actual voltage should be 13.8 with the motor running. A 12 volt battery itself is not really 12 volts, its 12.6.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:30 PM   #10
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I don't know if you have seen this site before, it has some good reading on our electrical systems. This article explains headlight relays. There is a lot more on the site.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:36 PM   #11
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Thanks for the info neonlarry, I will check it out.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:48 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by jorgensensc
Neonlarry,
Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I thought that the point of an internally regulated alternator was run at a higher voltage to charge the battery, and then run at 12 volts when it was charges. Wouldn't running at 14 volts fry some electrical components made to run on 12 volts? Please explain this to me.

Update. I went ahead and bought the lights from ****************. Shawn is a great guy and explained several things to me, including that his are actually DOT approved, unlike most other conversion kits.
Old headlights or new I'd do the "headlight relay update" long before I spent any money on updated headlights. I forget the exact numbers but before I turned my headlight switch into a headlight relay controller I measured the voltage at my headlights in the low 11s. After I ran 10 gauge wire straight off the battery through a relay to the headlights I was over 12 (at idle). I run the off-the-shelf halogen headlights. I still can't believe how bright they are with the wiring update.

I can't imagine what these new super headlights would look like through more modern wiring. (For my money I'd get the $15 worth of wire and relays, forget the new lights, and spend my money on more important things)

Not to mention that by using the relays and not running all that current through your headlight switch you won't have to keep replacing your switch.
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Old 02-10-2004, 10:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally posted by neonlarry
I don't know if you have seen this site before, it has some good reading on our electrical systems. This article explains headlight relays. There is a lot more on the site.
HOLY COW.......NOW THATS SOME READING THERE......

thanks larry....look's like i got some wiring to do for my new h4's
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:07 AM   #14
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HOLY COW.......NOW THATS SOME READING THERE......

thanks larry....look's like i got some wiring to do for my new h4's

Yeah and maybe your new Alt. too. Give the guy a call he is really helpful. I just bought a bunch of stuff from him. Iv'e got a CS144 Alt to go with my Serp setup.

P.S. I found a place to get Bosch relays w/connectors for less than $4.50 apiece. http://www.waytekwire.com/
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:13 AM   #15
jorgensensc
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O.k., so which of the bazillion relays do we actually need?, and which relay will make the dome light fade out like newer cars and trucks??
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-What would you attempt to achieve if you knew you could not fail?-

-I Refuse To Tiptoe Through Life, Only To Arrive Safely At Death's Door-

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Old 02-11-2004, 01:26 AM   #16
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I'm using the high capacity (50amp) SPST (single pole single throw) #75001. These are good for headlights, fans, fuel pump, A/C also an under dash ignition switched terminal for HEI, stereo and other high draw items. I don't know what to use for the dome light fade I'll have to check that out. I did get a Cole Hersee switch for wiper delay, I haven't installed it yet just tore the dash apart last weekend.
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Old 02-11-2004, 01:37 AM   #17
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I bought the ones From Shawn and they work GREAT! Just pull out the old sealed beams and Put the New ones in with no mods, no relays, took just a couple of minutes and now I can see at night!! With all these replies you will have a hard time making up your mind probably. But if you want the easiest simplest and least expensive order a pair from Shawn and "SEE THE LIGHT"!
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Old 02-11-2004, 09:26 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by neonlarry

P.S. I found a place to get Bosch relays w/connectors for less than $4.50 apiece. http://www.waytekwire.com/
GREAT LINK!
I've been looking for connectors for my relay setup. I hate using push on connectors. It looks so sloppy.

I just noticed this Waytek Wire is right here in MN!
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