Any way to make SURE dizzy isn't 180º off?

[TIMSPEED]

Well, I did a stupid thing..when I pulled out my distributor earlier, I forgot to look which way the rotor was pointing...is there any way to be absolutely sure that I won't fire the truck with it 180º off? (OTHER than backfiring out of the intake).

[Russell]

I found out via massive backfiring...

Set it to TDC with a good ol' kleenex and wrench to be 100% sure.

[swervin ervin]

Tim,

as Russell said, you will need to find TDC on #1 cylinder. Best way is take out plug and stick a piece of tissue in the hole loosely. Then turn the engine clockwise by hand from the front with the crank bolt. Turn it slowly and when the tissue pops out, stop. Then look at the timing marks and finish turning it until you get to around 6 or 8 degrees BTDC, or wherever you normally set the timing to. Then drop in the distributor and line the rotor up with the number one tower on the cap. It must go all the way down to the intake. If it don't take it back out and use a long screwdriver and flashlight to turn the oil pump shaft to where it will seat fully. This is the very best way to do this so it will crank on the very first try. This is called statc timing. It's dead on, no doubts and having to mess with the timing to make it start. If put on TDC, it's set to 0 degrees.

If you are good at it, if it don't go all the way down on the first try, you can pull it out a tiny bit, enough to clear the distributor gear from the cam and turn the oil pump shaft with the rotor button. Then put it back to number 1 again. Take into consideration the rotor will turn when drops back down. So go past number 1 tower a tad. Remember, the distributor rotates clockwise, so by past number 1 I mean counterclockwise.

Good luck.

[TIMSPEED]

Yeah, I figured I could set it to TDC and it'd be ok...now, is this how that procedure works...
1.) Take out #1 spark plug
2.) Rotate crank, while having a finger over the #1 spark plug hole
3.) When pressure pushes finger off #1 spark plug hole, take the distributor and drop it in, and make sure the rotor is pointing at the #1 cylinder.

Is that right?

[swervin ervin]

I think we were posting at the same time. Read above.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally posted by swervin ervin
Then look at the timing marks and finish turning it until you get to around 6 or 8 degrees BTDC, or wherever you normally set the timing to.

I normally set it to 12º though...

[bigblock73]

Originally posted by swervin ervin
If it don't take it back out and use a long screwdriver and flashlight to turn the oil pump shaft to where it will seat fully.

And DON'T drop the screwdriver down the distributor opening while you are at at! I was doing the very same thing with a screwdriver that was just a tad too short (I was holding it with my fingertips so it would reach)...and I dropped it! I ended up making a "hook" out of an old coat hanger and fished it out. Good thing that worked, or I would have had to pull the intake.

[swervin ervin]

Well, just stop the mark at 12 degrees BTDC. Before will be before the mark gets to zero.

So, you are coming around clockwise. Stop the crank mark at the 12 degree mark. Then follow my instructions above. When you get it running, you can check it with the light and it will be dead on 12 degrees BTDC, no doubt. Unless the light is screwed up.

[swervin ervin]

Good point Jeff. I forgot who I was talking to for a minute there.

Sorry Tim. Just ragging you a little.

It would be a biotch to have to remove the intake, wouldn't it?

Remember, I'm 49. You guys wouldn't believe the stories I could tell about my mechanicing adventures. I've done some stupid stuff. Biggest thing is, I lived to tell about it too. One thing about doing something stupid is learn by it. You learn real damn quick not to do it anymore.

[78chevstepside]

You might find it difficult to put your finger over the hole and rotate the motor. A tissue would work great. Even without tissue you can hear the air start shooting out of the hole. sometimes when pulling the distributor or a priming tool the shaft comes out with it . I had this happen.

[TIMSPEED]

If I put it to 10-12º BTDC, then the rotor won't be pointing EXACTLY at #1 tower will it? It'll be JUUST before it right?

[Zilverado]

Originally posted by TIMSPEED
If I put it to 10-12º BTDC, then the rotor won't be pointing EXACTLY at #1 tower will it? It'll be JUUST before it right?

Not that I know a whole lot (or anything) about timing, but it seems to me that the rotor should be pointing at the tower. This way the plug will fire before the piston reaches TDC. Isn't this what you're looking for with advanced timing?

Please correct me if I'm wrong (like you wouldn't anyway )

[78chevstepside]

I would point it at the number 1 tower . I generally put the mark at 0 degrees tdc. and put it in. Point the vacuum advance pointing at the gormot on the passengers side valve cover. Always fires right up. But putting it in a 12 degrees btdc does seem to make alot of sense( maybe my truck fires late). Its really simple procedure(hell I can do it). the air you hear will be the piston starting to come up. The hardest part is getting the pump lined up so the distributor goes all the way in. In thoeory you could even run a different firing order( just a thought or theory which I believe would work). Your already ahead in the game trying to get it on the right stroke. I have seen lots of guys put it in 180 degree out. It backfires through the carb.

[MylilBowTie]

Use a clean tire iron if you don't have a long enough screwdriver. The ones where one side is for the lug nuts and the other for the hub caps. Works fine and it wont get lost under the intake.

[Blue Beard]

I think it's called trial and error now.......with practice.......

[swervin ervin]

By static timing the distributor like I told Tim, there is no worry about having the timing off when you start the engine. Believe me here folks, I have done this too many times to count. When starting a freshly rebuilt engine or after installing a new cam, no way are you wanting anything to be on your mind that's not right. If you don't advance the timing before trying to start it, it won't start, or will barely start and not run right because you have the timing way too low. Then you start second guessing your work wondering if you done everything right. When you have everything pre oiled, you don't want to keep cranking an engine that won't fire right off the bat. All this does is wipe any lube or oil you have previously put there to keep from prematurely wearing the parts. If the engine doesn't start up pretty quickly, this is what happens.

Besides, you must instantly bring it up to 2000-2500 rpm or so to break in the cam. You don't have time to be messing with a timing light and stuff. You have enough to check with leaks, engine heat and coolant levels. Besides being scared to death the thing will blow up any second. The fear of breaking in a new engine or new cam is one I have never liked even though I've done it many times.

The static timed method works and works too a tee, every time. No guessing about where the timing is, trying to keep the engine at 2000-2500 rpm for 20 to 30 minutes. Again, believe me, you surely don't want to ruin a set of ceramic coated headers because you have the timing retarded and you see the header tubes glowing red because the timing is retarded instead of advanced from turning the distributor the wrong way when you were meaning to advance the timing a little.

Mike

[NeCrOmAnCeR]

If I may Swervin ervin. I didn't see above where you had mentioned how to make sure it will fire at exactly 6,8 12 degrees whatever. So here are some more detailed instructiones. When doing this, if an HEI follow Swervin's instructions to install the dizzy, then rotate the dist till the reluctor and pickup coil "teeth" exactly line up with each other. I'm talking about the little points (8 for 8cyl etc) under the advance weights. When these line up the module fires the coil. So if the engine is at the desired 12 degrees or whatever and you have stabbed the dist like this, the base timing cannot be wrong. I also have done this vith every new engine and it's great knowing I won't have to worry about that. No the rotor will not point EXACTLY to #1, but there will be no doubt that it will be closer to #1 than any other tower. To do the same thing with an engine equiped with points, follow the above instructions and use a test light, multimeter etc and test the continuity across the points, rotate the dist clockwise from where it was pointing at #1 tower till the points close. Then slowly turn CCW just till the points open and lock it down. Now it too is static timed.

Just trying to help clear this up.

[swervin ervin]

Yes, you sure may. Some good advice indeed. I see you and I are on the same page.

For several years, when I was much younger and dumber. some 30 years ago, I always would go to TDC and then fiddle with the distributor to get it start. Never could quite figure what I was not doing exactly right. I didn't have anyone who knew any more about this than I did, and most no where near as much. So I was on my own. I bought some magazine, can't remember which one now, and found an article on static timing with points. It was just as you said above. Go til they close and then back off til they just open. But the part that always confused me back then was the TDC thing. Finding the article about lining the mark up at whatever degrees of timing you run and then installing the distributor made a great amount of sense then and still does today. It's the only way to do it properly and start a new engine.

Thanks for your input.

Mike

[76bonanza]

If I am replacing my current dist. Can I remove the cap rotate the crank until it points to number one tower then jerk it out and drop the new one in so it point s the same?

[NeCrOmAnCeR]

Yes, but you will still need to set the timing as above.

[PHOENIX]

76bonanza:
When you pull the old one out make a mark on the firewall where it is point then pull the distr. out slowly and mark again where the rotor is point hen you get it all the way out. As Mike stated before when you pull the distr out the rotor turns a bit because of the gears inside, when you put a distr in it turns too, so make a mark of where the rotor is point when it is just pulled away from the gears inside (make mark on firewall where the rotor is pointing).

[76bonanza]

Then just insert the new pointing to second mark and it should rotate to were first mark is?

Sounds logical

[1972C10]

I never line up the oil pump pushrod just take allow for the slight movement that it turns when it goes in the rest of the way and bump the engine. It will fall right into place.

But if you dont do alot of engine building/ Distributor installation you might be better off with the long screwdriver .