Welding exhaust pipe?

[67chevemall]

Any one know of a good site to read up on welding exhaust?
I want to customize a exhaust but have never welded pipe!
What settings do you set the mig to?
Or should I use torches?

Any info?
Help!

[roadking]

took mine to car x , they dont know how to weld either. im like you i should learn to weld again.

[crazy4chevs]

just make shure that the pipe dosnt have a coating on it. its a pain to weld (unless you grind it off)

[mocwon]

Clean good and mig weld. I wouldn't use torches if you have a mig welder. Plus, if you have to do any welding with the pipe installed, which you likely will, torches are way too dangerous. All welder models are different so it's impossible to state a setting. Practice on new scrap pipe so you can sneak up on the proper adjustment for heat and wire feed.

[Southpa]

If possible, set up some sort of supporting jig so you can keep the two pieces in line and can turn them. Your best (and easiest) welds come from the "flat" position. If you are welding thick walled pipe you could bevel the mating edges slightly to get good penetration. Align the two pieces about 1/32" apart and tack them together with 3 or 4 evenly spaced tacks. If you want to run continuous beads between the tacks you could have an assistant slowly turn the pieces while you weld. I would suggest filling by tacking evenly all around if by yourself. This will keep the heat down and prevent any blowthru but you still need enough heat to get good weld penetration. I would suggest running your mig between 70 and 90 amps for exhaust pipe.

If you have any left over scrap pieces you might want to practice joining them, recut, join again etc. until you feel comfortable with your technique, settings, position etc.

LOL, I can remember repairing old exhaust pipe with a torch and a coat hanger for filler metal. Lots of mini-explosions from the rust and coat hanger material is made of the most impure concoction of metals you could imagine.

[stllookn]

It's really easy to do once you have removed the bed and cab! A truick lift makes it much easier too. I have done mine by lots of cutting, tacking then removing the pipes to weld them. They will move all over if the ends are not cut pefectly square. They can still pull when welded. If you are patient you can do a decent job...it just takes time.

[67Fleetsidedream]

Bolt everything up and tack it all together. Then remove and put a continues weld all the way around. Too bad you don't have a TIG welder. You could make some really pretty welds around the joint. Take your time.

[Beefcake]

A guy here at work said he used to heat up galvanized fence post and bend them in between two rims. Im not sure if this works, but sounds feasible.

[FirstGen]

if you use galvanized definatly don't breathe it!

[Blue Beard]

Most of the shops in this area use a wire feed now....a few still use a torch...

[gregsplace]

If all you have is a torch set up., DONT use coat hangers, junk metal as stated above. Use baler wire, soft and works good, specially on old exhaust,

[67chevemall]

Thanks guys
I think I'll let speedy muffer do it
As it is already on the truck!
With clamps
Get them to weld the clamps up tight

[GuyO]

Old thread I know, but Harbor Freight sells a 110 volt 90 amp wire feeder for $109.00. Perfect for exhaust, filling trim holes, patch panels, etc. Get the special wire cutters and splatter spray to keep the nozzle clean. Good little project welder.

[GASoline71]

I would much rather weld patch panels and fill holes with a gas mig and solid wire. Way less spaltter and cleanup grinding.

Gary

[pritch]

Although it's been years since I've tried to do any of it, I was always a better welder with a torch than an arc, for stuff like light-gage pipe. I should hook up my welding tip someday and see if I still got it.