Leaky Gas Tank - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

danho · 02-17-2004, 02:46 PM

The leaky behind the seat tank seems to be a common problem.
What have you guys used to fix this, and has it been successful?
Leaking is around the filler neck.
Dan.

scotts67 · 02-17-2004, 02:50 PM

My tank had a pin hole in the bottom of the tank on the driverside and I went to the local parts store and and bought a gas tank kit for 5 bucks it worked great. The kit came with, sandpaper, putty, pice of cloth, and some fiber glass gel. dosent leake any more

TsgtE662 · 02-17-2004, 03:31 PM

Steel Weld from Home Depot will work for a cheap fix that'll last a long time. We use it on the aircraft for the Air Force as a Temporary Repair until the aircraft can be ground for a couple days for maintenance.

Sweet72 · 02-17-2004, 03:57 PM

Get a gas tank sealer kit such as the one sold by eastwood. The instructions in the eastwood kit are very good, however be prepared for an extended cure (two days) time since pouring out the excess sealer is difficult if not impossible on our trucks.

Longhorn Man · 02-18-2004, 12:24 AM

THe best way is to steam out the tank for an hr or so,a nd actually repair the neck. We soldered mine back on with no problems (after steaming for almost 3 hrs, I was removing rust). Once you get it repaired, you can help prevent more cracks by making sure you do not lean on the pump nozzel when gassing up.

cobb_ben · 02-18-2004, 04:00 AM

You could just convert the tank to a nice poly rear mount blazer style tank for 238, no seams or welds, on leaking gas or having to smell it in your truck

http://store.ineedparts.com/store/vi...idProduct=7452

cobb_ben · 02-18-2004, 04:02 AM

Then either mount the old filler or shave the cab

danho · 02-18-2004, 01:18 PM

Hey Longhorn I like your idea, but how exactly do you steam a tank? And what did you use to solder it?
I do want to fix this tank the right way for now, later on I'll do a tank relocate.
Thanks, Dan.

Longhorn Man · 02-18-2004, 11:26 PM

Steam cleaner wand shoved into the sender hole with the trigger being held with my gas cap. Came back an hr later and dumped it all out and checked for rust...did this a few times untill it was 100% clean.
Then we used a torch to heat up the crack, dabbed it with a butt load of flux, and added solder.
Some sort of fuel tank liner (Like the POR15) is a great idea at this point.

02-17-2004, 02:46 PM	#1
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Leaky Gas Tank The leaky behind the seat tank seems to be a common problem. What have you guys used to fix this, and has it been successful? Leaking is around the filler neck. Dan.

02-17-2004, 02:50 PM	#2
scotts67 New KISS Band Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: South Carolina Posts: 107	My tank had a pin hole in the bottom of the tank on the driverside and I went to the local parts store and and bought a gas tank kit for 5 bucks it worked great. The kit came with, sandpaper, putty, pice of cloth, and some fiber glass gel. dosent leake any more __________________ 67 chevy 350 HP 4bolt main turbo 350 3.73 gears

02-17-2004, 03:31 PM	#3
TsgtE662 2A674 Tank Rat Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Maryland Heights, Mo. Posts: 626	Steel Weld from Home Depot will work for a cheap fix that'll last a long time. We use it on the aircraft for the Air Force as a Temporary Repair until the aircraft can be ground for a couple days for maintenance. __________________ '92 GMC Sierra, Sportside, 2wd, 350, Black '92 Chevy Silverado Extended Cab 4 x 4, Blue USAFR = 2A674 = Aircraft Fuel Systems Maintenance i.e. Tank Rat

02-17-2004, 03:57 PM	#4
Sweet72 Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Alexandria, VA Posts: 1,534	Get a gas tank sealer kit such as the one sold by eastwood. The instructions in the eastwood kit are very good, however be prepared for an extended cure (two days) time since pouring out the excess sealer is difficult if not impossible on our trucks. __________________ '72 GMC SWB C1500 Custom, frame-off in progress. 383 SBC, 9:1CR, Comp Cams XE262H, Scat internal balanced crank, Eagle SIR 6" rods, Keith Black dish pistons, Dart Iron Eagle 72/180 heads, Weiand Stealth intake, Stewart stage I water pump, Holley 4bbl vac sec, TH350 with B&M Shift Improver Kit. 12 bolt positraction.

02-18-2004, 04:00 AM	#6
cobb_ben Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Leonard Wood Mo Posts: 299	You could just convert the tank to a nice poly rear mount blazer style tank for 238, no seams or welds, on leaking gas or having to smell it in your truck http://store.ineedparts.com/store/vi...idProduct=7452 __________________ '69 Chevy C10 400sb-350 crank 400 destroker!!! 377 2.02 dart pro1 alum.heads msd, holley db hooker pro-comps-3in exh. 3 spd. saginaw-3.73posi Flat Bed...want Reg bed...trades?

02-18-2004, 12:24 AM	#5
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	THe best way is to steam out the tank for an hr or so,a nd actually repair the neck. We soldered mine back on with no problems (after steaming for almost 3 hrs, I was removing rust). Once you get it repaired, you can help prevent more cracks by making sure you do not lean on the pump nozzel when gassing up.

02-18-2004, 04:02 AM	#7
cobb_ben Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: Fort Leonard Wood Mo Posts: 299	Then either mount the old filler or shave the cab __________________ '69 Chevy C10 400sb-350 crank 400 destroker!!! 377 2.02 dart pro1 alum.heads msd, holley db hooker pro-comps-3in exh. 3 spd. saginaw-3.73posi Flat Bed...want Reg bed...trades?

02-18-2004, 01:18 PM	#8
danho Pesemistic Optimist Join Date: Dec 2002 Location: Prineville, Oregon Posts: 227	Hey Longhorn I like your idea, but how exactly do you steam a tank? And what did you use to solder it? I do want to fix this tank the right way for now, later on I'll do a tank relocate. Thanks, Dan.

02-18-2004, 11:26 PM	#9
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,693	Steam cleaner wand shoved into the sender hole with the trigger being held with my gas cap. Came back an hr later and dumped it all out and checked for rust...did this a few times untill it was 100% clean. Then we used a torch to heat up the crack, dabbed it with a butt load of flux, and added solder. Some sort of fuel tank liner (Like the POR15) is a great idea at this point.



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