What to look out for in a 67-72

[my57210]

I'm new to the board, been looking around for awhile and finally decided to get serious. Can anyone give me some pointers as to what to watch out for and steer clear of when looking at this range of trucks? I've been around street rods for so long that I feel kinda foolish to ask such a simple question, but if you don't know ask.
Thanks in advance Gary

[SWEET7T]

To start off, look at the rocker panels, kick panels, drip rail, and rear cab corners for rust. These spots seem like they are the first to start rotting.

Depending on how you want to build the truck, will help narrow down what you exactly want (If you plan on changing a bunch of stuff out, then you don't have to worry about it being on the truck, or being rusted, ect)

[CHEVYE]

i always check around the inside top corners of the windshield and the bottom of the firewall on the cab. usually everything else you can get a panel for and are usually rusted anyhow like rockers, (inner/outer) and cab corners. also check out where the very back of the bed meets under the tailgate.

[Hutch]

Welcome,
You have come to the right place to start your search.
There are no foolish questions but there are foolish answers.
My suggestion is to decide on what model and options you want first and pursue until you locate the one you want.
I myself prefer original paint, the less resprays the better. A recently painted truck usually adds to the price and covers a lot of imperfections.
Stick with the original Gm metal even if it does needs attention.
Don't think of conversions like long to short bed or 2-wheel drive to 4x4, these are best left to the professionals.
Cab repair is expensive unless you are in the trade or good pals with someone who is.
Put the word out locally that you are in the market and people will respond it seems that everyone knows somebody that has or had one at one time or another.

[67Fleetsidedream]

Do a search of the forum. You can answer alot of your questions by doing so. Good luck.

[jcueckert13]

check you cab supports and beware of a truck with a floorshift and low hump. also if it is 4 wheel drive and has a low hump. all standard trans and 4x4s had high humps. when looking take a look at the glove compartment door for your options and dont bother if the sticker is gone.

[CHEVYE]

you mentioned hot rodding. are you looking to stocker #`s matching or rodding it out?

[stllookn]

Welcome from Seattle, WA. There are lots of these trucks around so take your time and get what you want. The most difficult thing will be convincing your wife that you really need about 4-5 of them! All the rest of the stuff you already know since you are already into hot rods!

[Robo_bot]

ya always look for the rust in the rockers, cab corners, and front fenders

[chevymaz]

Hey welcome to the board...I am your neighbor in Bartlesville

[my57210]

Thanks for the help. I was concerned if there were problems with door hinge pockets rusting out. The usual rocker panels and cab corners won't be a prolem. I'm not into a restoration, but more into a classic truck that I can drive the wheels off of.
Again Thanks for the help.
gary

[MrGoodpliers]

RUST! By far the greatest concern with these trucks. In addition to the cab, The doors are prone to rust from the inside out. Check the bottom of the doors inside where the inner and the skin meet and the drian holes. Also, the passenger's side front fender & liner. The battery is on this side and over the years with people topping off the battery, this area with get some corrosion an rust. Check the firewall where the pinchweld is. Rust here is very difficult to fix. If you are shopping for a shortbed, be aware that many people have shortened longbed frames over the years.

[Number98]

Check out the lips on the front and rear glass. I got one once that was near perfect, took the back glass out and the whole lip around the window was rust.... You could use your pinky and just knock the lip out.

[Mike Culpepper]

I asked the same question not too long ago and got this good advice:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=44599
Mike

[my57210]

Thanks again for the great pointers. I think I 've gotten a good idea of the problem areas to watch out for. Now all I have to do is find the RIGHT one.

[davidh]

The good thing about these trucks is they make almost all the panels for them. You can expect the rockers to be gone unless they cleaned it alot or the truck lived in AZ. I wouldn't go so far as to say pass on the vehicle because the option sticker is gone off the glove box.(come on!) These trucks will be like earlier cars. Ones will dismiss as salvage today will be highly sought after in a 10-15 years!!! Think of all the 67-69 Camaros you passed on in the 80's they went for 500-$1200. Now they go for 2500 no motor or tranny or primerd and running for $4500!!!!!

[davidh]

I live in Ponca City, OK and I see these trucks all the time going for decent prices. I've paid $300 for a 6cy 67' and drove it home. I got a really nice 68' that didn't run because of a 2 month old bad starter from autozone. I know where a nice 71 350 4sp is that was a co-op truck, supposedly 39K on it for around $1500.

[dwaite72lnghrn]

I think the sheet metal is secondary as you can get just about anything of that type from vendors on the board. My concerns are frame rust between the cab and bed and around the spring perches. also check the frame around the steering box. lay on the ground in front of the truck and look down the frame for anything that looks crooked. A good jolt to the front and a new clip and you would never see the frame you can't get alignment on. Like said above pick what you want first write it down in order of importance then start looking.

[botboy]

I think the sheet metal has been beaten to death so I'll add a few more:

Electrical - as with any car make sure everything works, get under the dash and check to see how hacked the wiring harness is. Look at the quality of work for things added in (stereo, aftermarket horn, etc) by the PO. Electrical demons are a royal pain unless you KNOW exactly what you're doing (like me). Check the engine bay for loose wires, crappily done surgery, wiring routes (like the rad support channel and firewall channel)

Engine, obviously check if it leaks, knocks, smokes, backfires, etc. Be wary of the engine being warm when you get there unless its been sitting and not been driven around as a daily driver.

Transmission - make sure it shifts good at various throttle ranges (auto) if its a manual be wary of clutch slippage and meshing gears/noises (bad syncros). If its an auto don't be afraid to pull the dipstick and smell the fluid - avoid burnt smell.

Check the frame thoroughly in a northern/coastal truck, thru rust on the frame is NOT uncommon and can cause very very bad things!

Lastly, check for the small stuff. Cracks in lenses and running lights might be a small thing, but it costs money to replace and you don't want to be nickel and dimed to death.

[davidh]

I've never seen a frame rust down here in Oklahoma. I'd give them away if I could. Most people junk frames unless they are short bed but often I see those make it to the scrapper too. I did see something on the internet with mazda truck that folded in half on the lift from the frame rusting. It was something to see...