02-18-2004, 12:46 AM | #1 |
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: h'vegas,TN,USA
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shorty headers
i need some i have a 72 c10 2 wheel drive 1/2ton 350/350 turbo any companies that carry these or any help thanks
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Clint 72 c'10 350ci/400hp sleeper forever |
02-18-2004, 01:01 AM | #2 |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Arizona
Posts: 157
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All of the shorty headers that I have seen have a center dump. Summit makes some truck headers for late model trucks that dump at an angle toward the rear. And they have a 3/8ths inch flange (a thick one) for good sealing. I was going to give them a try but decided to just use traditional headers. Summit only lists them for late model applications but they will probably work. Summits web site is:
www.summitracing.com Here are the part numbers and descriptions: SUM-G9014 Chevy/GMC: 1988-95 5.0/5.7L C/K 1500/2500 pickup, 1992-95 5.7L Blazer/Tahoe/Yukon, Suburban, painted headers $159.99 SUM-G9014-9 Chevy/GMC: 1988-95 5.0/5.7L C/K 1500/2500 pickup, 1992-95 5.7L Blazer/Tahoe/Yukon, Suburban, painted headers ... $274.99 SUM-G9015 Chevy: 1988-95 5.0/5.7L, C/K 1500/2500 pickup with A.I.R. tube fittings, 1992-95 5.0/5.7L, Blazer/Tahoe/Yukon,... $159.99 SUM-G9016 Chevy/GMC: 1996-98 5.7L C/K 1500 pickups, 1996-99 C/K 2500 pickups, Suburban, Tahoe/Yukon, painted headers $159.99 Good Luck, Jeff
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72 C10 Burb 350 700R4 70 C20 LWB 350 Crate TH400 68 Chevelle |
02-18-2004, 01:35 AM | #3 |
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Roswell, N.M.
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headers
Early Classic has a nice set of SBC shorties that kick back and they are already coated.
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02-18-2004, 02:11 AM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 210
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I used a set of Hedman brand block huggers (shorties) on my suburban with a 350. They have a center dump, but fit very nicely. I wanted them because I figured on lowering the sub quite a bit at some point, and didn't want to worry about clearance problems or changing headers down the road. The only problem with that is there is very limited space to run the exhaust down between the frame and engine, especially by the starter. I figured that was the exhaust guys problem, not mine!! He ended up doing a very nice job. The only thing he had to do difficult was put a fairly sharp angle on the first bend, which seems fine. I'll be putting some heat shielding on the starter to be safe. Had a '90 454SS pickup that went through starters like crazy even with a shield, then upgraded to better stuff, so I've learned that lesson. BTW, exhaust pipe is 2 1/2 inches, is tucked up into the frame recesses and dumps out the side behind the rear wheels.
Hope that helps...and hope I didn't ramble to much!!
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1972 Chevrolet Suburban ('68 front clip), 2wd, 350/350, factory tilt 2008 Kawasaki Concours 14 1997 Harley-Davidson Soft Tail Custom 1948 Chevrolet Coupe (project) 1972 Porsche 914 |
02-18-2004, 03:17 AM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Puyallup, WA
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68plus4sub: I need to do something about my exhaust in my 68 C10 SWB now that I'm installing airbags. Currently it hangs down about 6 inches below the frame at the lowest point, and I was thinking about having them exit before the rear wheels like you described... One question though, how did you route them to go from inside the framerails to outside the framerails? Did you just go underneath the frame? Or did you find some way to keep them tucked up higher?
Ideally I'd like to place the mufflers under the cab, one on either side, without routing the exhaust below the frame...
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Mike Lackey '68 C10 |
02-18-2004, 04:11 AM | #6 |
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Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 210
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darcane
Actually the exit is BEHIND the rear wheels, but I'll try to explain how it runs...hopefully I can explain it well enough, the 'burbs is in Boise right now at the body shop and I'm in Portland, so hard to look at it!!
Also, I'm only guessing, but I think the underside of our trucks is very similiar, mine just being much longer. My tranny crossmember has 2 half moon recesses just inside of where it mounts to the frame rail. So, instead of it going straight across it has "notches"(my word to try and describe). It's not much, but enough to have the top of the exhaust pipe (maybe 1/4 of it) tucked up above the actual frame rail. It then runs along the inside of the frame at that same height back to the flowmasters which are mounted almost back to the trailing arm. My exhaust guy and others I've talked to like to put them back as far as possible. Power, or ease of install I havn't been able to pin down. The pipe then comes almost directly out of the muffler(s) and up and over the rear end where it ends up to the outside of the gas tank('burb tank in the back), cuts down a tad then straight out the sides. Keep in mind that my truck is not lowered right now, but the exhaust shop installed it knowing that I will at least be lowering it moderately. I have no clue if this set up will work with bags, but I'm guessing the "over the rear end" part could be an issue. From the final bend out, the pipe goes under the frame then out almost level, just beneath the rear body panel. It's all very close quarters, but a very nice job was done. BTW, I bet that ZX is a hole lot of fun!! Note to anyone else, I'm kind of new and don't know if this constitutes hijacking a thread, so if anyone ever has any input for me on etiquette(sp) or anything, I'm always open for suggestions....just want to help and contribute!!
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1972 Chevrolet Suburban ('68 front clip), 2wd, 350/350, factory tilt 2008 Kawasaki Concours 14 1997 Harley-Davidson Soft Tail Custom 1948 Chevrolet Coupe (project) 1972 Porsche 914 |
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