For those that are bagged...

[75BeauJames]

I'm planning out to redo my suspension in my 75 GMC Sierra Classic, and am trying to calculate the drop. I don't intend to lay frame, but want it fairly low when deflated, but still at a driveable hight in the event of a failure. I learned a long time ago with my S10 with hydraulics that driving home with a quarter panel on the ground isn't fun.

So my question is, if I go with Firestone 2600 bags up front with the OEM spindle and lower control arms, what will the drop be? From what I can tell, it seems to only be 2" lower than stock with the bag deflated, but want to be sure.

I'm thinking 5" drop in the front will be low enough to my liking and still be driveable. So if the bags provide a 2" drop, I was thinking I could go with a 2" spindle and 1" drop lower control arms. Or is there a better setup for the front?

Thanks guys...

Scott

[low 84]

how are you figuring these measurements? even with a stock spindle and control are the bags are going to get you much lower than 2 inches from stock

[BaggedC10]

2" drop with spindles and bags...??? Deflate the bags and the front crossmember will lay on the ground.

[75BeauJames]

Originally posted by BaggedC10
Deflate the bags and the front crossmember will lay on the ground.

Okay, that's what I wanted to know. I read on a website somewhere that the Air Ride Technologie's Cool Ride kit would lower the suspension 2" when deflated. There is quite a possibility that I misread the information, I'm just wondering what all I need to account for when redoing the front suspension. If I can't control the bottomed out height, that's fine, I just need to know as that will be a determing factor in which route I choose to go.

Thanks guys...

Scott

[BaggedC10]

No problem. I have the ART Cool-Ride kit, DJM 3" spindles, and PST front-end rebuild kit up front.

[jon_volk]

Originally posted by 75BeauJames


I read on a website somewhere that the Air Ride Technologie's Cool Ride kit would lower the suspension 2" when deflated.

i seem to remember reading that they typically like to set ride height within 2" of stock....fully deflated should lay it on the crossmember like said above.

[low 84]

well i think i see what your doing now. you just want an adjustable suspension that will drop you down to something like a 5/7 drop max and then lift you back up to stock. in that case i would leave the stock spindles and control arms and only use bags, that should limit you from going too low. and you can always add spindles later if its not low enough initialy. i think you also might be able to use limiting straps of some kind to keep it from dropping too low when deflated

[BaggedC10]

.....but there's no such thing as "too low".

[75BeauJames]

Originally posted by BaggedC10
.....but there's no such thing as "too low".

I couldn't agree more! My only concern is I bought a few acres out in the Hill Country, and I have about a quarter mile of a very rough and rocky dirt road, and I don't want to run in to a situation where a bag pops, and I have to leave my truck on the side of the road until I could replace the bag. All of my experience has been in hydraulics and I don't know all that much about a bagged suspension; Maybe a bag popping is something I don't have to be all that concerned about -- It's just the fact that this is my daily driver.

I'm sure it doesn't matter, just like all my other projects I start out with a slight adjustment to the suspension and I am never satisified until I can push bottle caps with my front bumber. When It's all said and done, I'll probably end up laying totally out.

[Izzy]

Originally posted by BaggedC10
2" drop with spindles and bags...??? Deflate the bags and the front crossmember will lay on the ground.

Technically the "arms" will hit the ground first.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by fiveeightchevy
Technically the "arms" will hit the ground first.

That is correct...

[bagged81]

Originally posted by fiveeightchevy

Technically the "arms" will hit the ground first.

Yep, I learned that the hard way. I ended up putting skids on the crossmember to keep the a-arms form being ground down by the asphalt.

[N2TRUX]

Originally posted by bagged81
.... I ended up putting skids on the crossmember to keep the a-arms form being ground down by the asphalt.

I have another plan...

[bagged81]

lol, mine was a little cheaper and I had the material laying around the house. But I like your idea a lot more.

[BaggedC10]

Originally posted by 75BeauJames


I couldn't agree more! My only concern is I bought a few acres out in the Hill Country, and I have about a quarter mile of a very rough and rocky dirt road, and I don't want to run in to a situation where a bag pops, and I have to leave my truck on the side of the road until I could replace the bag. All of my experience has been in hydraulics and I don't know all that much about a bagged suspension; Maybe a bag popping is something I don't have to be all that concerned about -- It's just the fact that this is my daily driver.

I'm sure it doesn't matter, just like all my other projects I start out with a slight adjustment to the suspension and I am never satisified until I can push bottle caps with my front bumber. When It's all said and done, I'll probably end up laying totally out.

A bag failing is not to worry about. Besides, how would you limit the suspension from going down?

[Izzy]

Originally posted by BaggedC10




A bag failing is not to worry about. Besides, how would you limit the suspension from going down?

You could fab up a sqaure tube spacer for the bumpstop but what ryan suggested with just running the bags would work.

[Tom]

Originally posted by N2TRUX
I have another plan...

Thats a good plan.......


And if all you want is a 5" drop, then do it static. I daily drive my truck with 5.5" up front drop a minimum of 70miles a day to and from work.