C20 Rear Brake Job with Eaton HO52 axle?

[SprayPaint]

My ‘67 C20, as best as I can tell from other postings, has a HO52 Eaton 10-Bolt axle. I’ll try and post a picture of the pumpkin and drum.

My question is, how exactly do I tear this thing apart to do the rear brakes?

I have several manuals but none are very specific on how to start. Will the drum come off without opening the differential? I’ve done brake work before but never worked inside of a differential so the terminology is confusing.

If I do have to tear things down a bit, are there seals that would need replacing, and are they still available for this axle?

Thanks for any input!!!

[SprayPaint]

Here is my drum

[JIMs70GMC]

You have to pull the axle, then remove the hub/drum assembly to see the brakes and if the drum needs replacing you'll have to seperate it from the hub. Might as well check your wheel bearing while the hub is off. Also replace the inner hub seal. They are still available. You don't have to remove the diff cover.

[SprayPaint]

I don't mean to sound stupid, but how exactly do I "pull the axle"? I've never worked on anyting quite like this before. Are there any special tools involved to pull the axle? Thanks

[JIMs70GMC]

remove the 8 bolts all the way on the end that is the actual axle. Then you'll pry it loose and the whole axle shaft will come out. Behind it will be a spindle that the hub rides on. You remove the hub by removing the two nuts holding the hub to the spindle. Once the nuts are off you can remove the hub/drum assembly. This will require striking the drum etc....

[SprayPaint]

Thanks for the feedback Jims70GMC, I guess I just need to start tearing into it. I'm still kinda struggling with what parts come apart from what when thos 8 bolts are removed.

Also a bit surpised that you say I don't have to remove diff. cover. Had several people tell me this was required.

Thanks again!

[JIMs70GMC]

If the axle was retained with c-clips then you'd have to remove the cover to get the c-clips out. That flange held on by the 8 bolts is part of the actual axle it's self.
The thing about these "full floating" axles is they are held on the same as the front i.e. a hub riding on a spindle, only difference is the rear has a "hollow" spindle for the axle to go through and slip in to the spider gears of the differential. With this type set-up you have two bearings on each side supporting the load vice one on a semi-floating rear end.
Once you get the axle shaft off and look in the hub you'll see it's not much different from the front.

[Dean]

I'd recommend getting the special socket to take the threaded retaining rings off. Please don't use the chisel method that some previous owner did on one of mine......

Drum should come right off then.

[No3Fan4Ever]

What kind of 'special' socket are you refering to; and where do you get it?

[72 CustomCamper]

As Jim said you need to remove these 8 bolts here.. The whole axel shaft will then slide out. After that you will need a socket like the one for front hub nuts on a 4x4 to remove the spindle nuts...

Chuck

[my67c20]

After you remove those 8 bolts do not pry on the axle. If this has not been apart in a long time odds are it is stuck good. If you look in the center you see 2 almost half circles. Hit that with a dead blow hammer or a chunk of wood behind a hammer and this shock effect should pop the axle loose. Prying creates burrs and burrs create leaks and at 65 mph on the freeway this makes a heck of a mess. Also you should be able to get the sockets at NAPA or a truck center.

[Erl]

You can rent the special nut wrench at NAPA. They should have the brake parts. You might consider a 1967 GM service manual, watch for one on Ebay.
Erl