steering stabilier on 2wd

[aggiedave98]

lmctruck.com has a 'factory' steering stabilizer for $80. It has 1 shock on it.

I'm putting in a 3" suspension lift and 32x11.5x15 tires. It is worth putting that in? What will it best help with? (steering vibration, life of components, etc?)

thanks.

[Prerunner1982]

i would do it, only going to run 32s huh? why not bump up to 35"s?

[aggiedave98]

I'm trying to be a little practicle about it... Should I go up to 33"? I'm only putting a 3" lift, so 35 would be too big.

What I was really worried about is milage and stopping. I tow a boat and need all the breaking I can get. I've read the bigger tires make braking worse.

Does anybody have comments on that (worse breaking)?

[aggiedave98]

prerunner, what about this:

What will it best help with? (steering vibration, life of components, etc?)

[68LSS1]

Yes, if you change to larger tires your braking distance will probably increase. But since your just changing tires, I doubt it will change too much. Now if you are increasing wheel size also, then definately your braking distances will increase. This is due, simply put, to the increased weight of the wheel and tire. As far as stopping ability vehicle aside, unless your running a mud type tire (usually wide seperation between lugs for self cleaning) there shouldn't be any difference there.

[Prerunner1982]

aggie, it helps control vibration.. and most likely to some extent make some things last longer. 33"s are fine, will have to see truck with 33s and 3" lift. i run 32"s stock and they fill the wheel wells just fine. you could run 35"s though it may require a bit of trimming on the front.... who nees lift? i am just gonna cut the fenders and run 35"s.. i MIGHT..... eventually go with some fiberglass fenders...


as far as braking is concerned.. i havent really noticed much of a difference, as long as your brake system is up to par.


by the way here are pics of my truck.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=prerunner1982

[greatdaen]

Your tire/wheel combos act as giant gyroscopes when you get them rotating. There are some complex force vectors created. As the diameter/mass/moment of inertia increase - for instance changing to bigger tires - the force levels increase also. At some point the internal damping (read friction) in the steering system can no longer dampen out the those forces. That is where the steering damper comes in - and that is why you see them on trucks with big wheel/tire combos and not Luminas or even 1/2-tons. The damper will keep the shimmy out of your steering wheel. If money is tight, try driving your new tires without the damp, then add it if you need it.

The larger tires increase breaking distance because you are increasing the lever arm. With stock tires, the braking force occurs roughly at the midpoint of the brake pad or at the inner drum diameter - somewhere around 6 inches from the axle centerpoint. The force of the vehicles mass fighting against the brakes occurs at the tire/road interface. The "rolling radius" of a 28" tire is roughly 1 inch less then the standard radius - so 13 inches. The ratio of your lever arms are then 6 to 13.

Put on the 33s and your rolling radius becomes 15.5 inches. Now your ratio is 6 to 15.5.

-dch

[bigbluthng]

i got a 3" lift and 33" tires. it actually rode a little smoother than when i had the 31s. on the other hand, i cannot take big dips too fast because the tire will hit the lip of the fender, also i have 4 1/2 inches of backspacing on my wheels and the tires hit the frame when i turn the wheel all the way in one direction. acceleration decreased so i went to 4.10 gears (from 3.73) then my mileage really decreased. its a 98 1500 x cab with a 3 slow 5.

[greatdaen]

The ride improved because the sidewalls on the 33s are taller than on the 31s. That provides more flex and adds some damping.

-dch