Any trick to centering steering? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

nosto · 03-02-2004, 11:17 PM

About 2000 miles ago, I replaced the front end on my '67 with parts from a '77, mostly to get the 5 lug and discs. My '67 already had PS from the previous owner. While the FE was apart I needed to move the frame and rotated the PS by hand. Apparently, I never corrected for this, since when I turn right I've got a turn radius of about 40 feet, but left it's only about 25 feet. It's a bytch to try and pull into a tight parking spot by turning right!

Adjusting the tie rods won't change it enough. Also, my steering wheel is dead center, no problem there. What I think I need to do is to try to find a way to 'recenter' the pitman arm with the steering box. Does anyone know how to do this? Am I making something really easy sound difficult?

Thanks,

PanelDeland · 03-02-2004, 11:42 PM

Pull the pitman arm.Rotate the wheel lock to lock,counting the turns.Divide # of turns by 2.Turn wheel from one lock towards the other that # of turns.Reinstall pitman arm.
You will be in the ballpark.

mikeoj · 03-02-2004, 11:45 PM

I've seen it before.This is what I did...Front wheels pointing straight ahead.Take pitman arm off gearbox.Take steering wheel turn it all the to the right,then all the way to the left,counting how many turns it takes to get there.Divide that in half to center the gearbox and steering wheel.Reattach the pitman arm with the gear box in this location.Try it and let us know how it worked out for you.Good Luck,Mike.Looks like i got beat to it!

nosto · 03-02-2004, 11:50 PM

Two, almost identical replies!!! Can't go wrong there.

I kinda thought it was that straight forward, but couldn't think it through. I'll give it a shot real soon now.

But with the weather turning nice, it's just so much fun driving this thing around, I don't want to take it off the road for a second!

Thanks again,

Perchjerker · 03-03-2004, 12:03 AM

The above steps will definitely get you close to alignment. Actually, you can actually do a very acurate alignment after you have done the above steps. It sounds hilbilly but my freind does it to a lot of our vehicles and it saves $40 at the alignment shop, plus it works just as good if not better.
First, get a length of small diameter string long enough to go from your rear wheels to the front.
Next, park your truck going as stright as possible. Then, using the string, stretch it from the rear wheel to the front wheel, looking to see where it hits the part of the wheel closest to the front of the truck as compared to the part of the wheel closest to the rear. Loosen the bolts on the Z bar sleeve and adjust until the string touches both the front and the rear of the wheel at the same time. Do this for both sides of the truck.
Remember, this will not work unless you have done what the above posts have stated.
Good Luck!

03-02-2004, 11:17 PM	#1
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Any trick to centering steering? About 2000 miles ago, I replaced the front end on my '67 with parts from a '77, mostly to get the 5 lug and discs. My '67 already had PS from the previous owner. While the FE was apart I needed to move the frame and rotated the PS by hand. Apparently, I never corrected for this, since when I turn right I've got a turn radius of about 40 feet, but left it's only about 25 feet. It's a bytch to try and pull into a tight parking spot by turning right! Adjusting the tie rods won't change it enough. Also, my steering wheel is dead center, no problem there. What I think I need to do is to try to find a way to 'recenter' the pitman arm with the steering box. Does anyone know how to do this? Am I making something really easy sound difficult? Thanks, __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

03-02-2004, 11:42 PM	#2
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Pull the pitman arm.Rotate the wheel lock to lock,counting the turns.Divide # of turns by 2.Turn wheel from one lock towards the other that # of turns.Reinstall pitman arm. You will be in the ballpark. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

03-02-2004, 11:45 PM	#3
mikeoj Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: WI,USA Posts: 495	I've seen it before.This is what I did...Front wheels pointing straight ahead.Take pitman arm off gearbox.Take steering wheel turn it all the to the right,then all the way to the left,counting how many turns it takes to get there.Divide that in half to center the gearbox and steering wheel.Reattach the pitman arm with the gear box in this location.Try it and let us know how it worked out for you.Good Luck,Mike.Looks like i got beat to it! __________________ 69 Lwb C-10 402/700R4 70 Lwb C-10 250/3pd Wisc. Last edited by mikeoj; 03-02-2004 at 11:48 PM.

03-02-2004, 11:50 PM	#4
nosto Flamin' Bass Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Galloway, NJ, US Posts: 315	Two, almost identical replies!!! Can't go wrong there. I kinda thought it was that straight forward, but couldn't think it through. I'll give it a shot real soon now. But with the weather turning nice, it's just so much fun driving this thing around, I don't want to take it off the road for a second! Thanks again, __________________ Rick Olson /nosto/ Galloway, NJ Pics : http://community.webshots.com/user/nosto53 1972 Triumph TR6 - full resto, now with a Toyota 5-speed 1975 F**D F-100 - rusty, but reliable 1982 HD XLH-1000 1967 C-10, shortstep, 350/M21 4spd, nitrogen tank fills fast bags on 4 corners, Toyo 255/45X20s on American Eagle 221 20X8s, shaved locks and handles, antenna, fuel filler, tiny C-notch, rear fuel tank, long headers, Edelbrock, worn 600 Holley, Checkmate flush hard cover, rear pan, custom LED taillights - painted it, too! But don't like it so I'm gonna do it again!!

03-03-2004, 12:03 AM	#5
Perchjerker Beer Power!!!!!!!!!! Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Nacogdoches, TX Posts: 280	The above steps will definitely get you close to alignment. Actually, you can actually do a very acurate alignment after you have done the above steps. It sounds hilbilly but my freind does it to a lot of our vehicles and it saves $40 at the alignment shop, plus it works just as good if not better. First, get a length of small diameter string long enough to go from your rear wheels to the front. Next, park your truck going as stright as possible. Then, using the string, stretch it from the rear wheel to the front wheel, looking to see where it hits the part of the wheel closest to the front of the truck as compared to the part of the wheel closest to the rear. Loosen the bolts on the Z bar sleeve and adjust until the string touches both the front and the rear of the wheel at the same time. Do this for both sides of the truck. Remember, this will not work unless you have done what the above posts have stated. Good Luck! __________________ Rather be fishin'



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