distritbutor wont fit all the way down. - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:17 PM

i'm trying to install my distributor but it wont fit flush with the intake. its about a 1/4" or a little more off. the rotor is pointing towards the #1 terminal and i beleve that the engine is on TDC, and i have my timing preset to 11 degrees. i had to turn the oil pump a bunch of times just to get the dizzy down that far

8t5Silverado · 03-08-2004, 04:19 PM

Do you have the distributor gear on upside down? That will make it sit up a bit.

Don't laugh, it happens.

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:20 PM

it better not be, msd sent it to me that way if it is

Russell · 03-08-2004, 04:21 PM

Hmm, if you are sure that your oil pump shaft is aligned properly, then there is a possiblility that maybe your oil pump shaft isn't down all the way or something. With me, all it took was a quick rotating of the shaft and it slid right down.

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:22 PM

does it matter that my block is zero decked?

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:23 PM

with the dizzy in the engine as far as it will go right now, the rotor WILL turn when i turn the engine over by hand

Russell · 03-08-2004, 04:24 PM

Yeah, but you want that gap filled...

How much did they take off when they zero decked it?

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:25 PM

it was a stock 71' block. i dont know for sure

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:28 PM

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...01&prmenbr=361

http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...30&prmenbr=361

am i gonna need soemthing like this?

Russell · 03-08-2004, 04:35 PM

Sounds like you need the second one you posted if you're sure that your oil pump is all the way down and aligned properly.

ocbaud · 03-08-2004, 04:37 PM

hmm...

it fits now :/

i just had to keep dicking around with it a lot.

now i get to install the rest of my stuff after i go to the dentist!!!

Russell · 03-08-2004, 04:40 PM

I figured as much

Oil pump shaft probally wasn't seated right

Keep a really good eye on that oil pressure gauge when you first fire that beasty up

Chevy67Tk · 03-08-2004, 04:57 PM

I seriously don’t think you had that much removed from the deck, or you would have had a lot more problems getting other things to match up.

If you have the dist. In far enough to turn the rotor when you turn the crank over by hand, keep turning and it should drop down onto the oil pump drive shaft with light to no pressure pushing down on the dist.
I’m not saying you won’t need shims but .250 is a lot of material

If you are using the o-rings on the shaft did you chamfer (sp?) the block were it passes threw in the lifter galley. This could also keep you from getting it to seat if it is hanging on one of the o-rings.

Chevy67Tk · 03-08-2004, 04:59 PM

Man I need to learn to type faster

Destructo · 03-08-2004, 05:19 PM

I have found that sometimes if you bump the engine over with the starter it will fall in to place, other than that it will sometimes only drop in once lined up with the pump gear exactly.

low 84 · 03-08-2004, 08:33 PM

zero decking usualy removes about .02 so there is now way in hell you could get a 1/4 inch gap from that. glad you got it in though. lining the oil pump slot up can be a pain sometimes

*1FaastC10* · 03-08-2004, 09:08 PM

not with a big screwdriver its not.

i've run into that problem a few times. when i built my first engine, i had the intake off 3 times because i couldnt get it to seal properly. i put it in once, and it left a gap just like Eric's did. i didnt think much of it, put the clamp on and snugged her down. when i fired it up i heard a *ca chunk* as i cranked it over. ran fine until i shut it off, then apparently the dizzy walked a little bit and threw the timing way off. grabbed the dizzy, and it was as if i hadnt tightened it down at all. i always make sure that they're fully seated now.

76bonanza · 03-09-2004, 12:56 AM

ocbaud

Did you need anything else with your msd ie (wiring harness or different clamp for it?)

Thanks

TIMSPEED · 03-09-2004, 02:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ocbaud
i just had to keep dicking around with it a lot.

Hmm, usually when I work on my truck I use my hands...

ocbaud · 03-09-2004, 09:00 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by 76bonanza
ocbaud

Did you need anything else with your msd ie (wiring harness or different clamp for it?)

Thanks

nope. but of course i'm using a MSD probillet distirubotor and msd blaster2 coil and msd 6AL

really really simple to hook up.

bigblock73 · 03-09-2004, 09:48 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by TIMSPEED

Hmm, usually when I work on my truck I use my hands...

That is just wrong in so many ways.

03-08-2004, 04:19 PM	#2
8t5Silverado Mudslides 'r my specialty Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: STL Posts: 1,106	Do you have the distributor gear on upside down? That will make it sit up a bit. Don't laugh, it happens. __________________ Always on the lookout for old cars and parts...(20s, 30s, 40s, 50s, 60s, etc.) http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/500339

03-08-2004, 04:21 PM	#4
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Hmm, if you are sure that your oil pump shaft is aligned properly, then there is a possiblility that maybe your oil pump shaft isn't down all the way or something. With me, all it took was a quick rotating of the shaft and it slid right down. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-08-2004, 04:24 PM	#7
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Yeah, but you want that gap filled... How much did they take off when they zero decked it? __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-08-2004, 04:35 PM	#10
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	Sounds like you need the second one you posted if you're sure that your oil pump is all the way down and aligned properly. __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-08-2004, 04:40 PM	#12
Russell Professional Grade Join Date: May 2003 Location: Fort McMurray, Alberta Posts: 7,915	I figured as much Oil pump shaft probally wasn't seated right Keep a really good eye on that oil pressure gauge when you first fire that beasty up __________________ 1995 Chevrolet 2 Door Tahoe (6.6L LBZ Duramax / ZF6 / NP241 with 1 ton solid axle swap)

03-08-2004, 04:17 PM	#1
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	distritbutor wont fit all the way down. i'm trying to install my distributor but it wont fit flush with the intake. its about a 1/4" or a little more off. the rotor is pointing towards the #1 terminal and i beleve that the engine is on TDC, and i have my timing preset to 11 degrees. i had to turn the oil pump a bunch of times just to get the dizzy down that far

03-08-2004, 04:20 PM	#3
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	it better not be, msd sent it to me that way if it is

03-08-2004, 04:22 PM	#5
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	does it matter that my block is zero decked?

03-08-2004, 04:23 PM	#6
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	with the dizzy in the engine as far as it will go right now, the rotor WILL turn when i turn the engine over by hand

03-08-2004, 04:25 PM	#8
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	it was a stock 71' block. i dont know for sure

03-08-2004, 04:28 PM	#9
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...01&prmenbr=361 http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...30&prmenbr=361 am i gonna need soemthing like this?

03-08-2004, 04:37 PM	#11
ocbaud Garage Queen Material Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: USA Posts: 4,129	hmm... it fits now :/ i just had to keep dicking around with it a lot. now i get to install the rest of my stuff after i go to the dentist!!!

03-08-2004, 04:57 PM	#13
Chevy67Tk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: PA Posts: 349	I seriously don’t think you had that much removed from the deck, or you would have had a lot more problems getting other things to match up. If you have the dist. In far enough to turn the rotor when you turn the crank over by hand, keep turning and it should drop down onto the oil pump drive shaft with light to no pressure pushing down on the dist. I’m not saying you won’t need shims but .250 is a lot of material If you are using the o-rings on the shaft did you chamfer (sp?) the block were it passes threw in the lifter galley. This could also keep you from getting it to seat if it is hanging on one of the o-rings. __________________

03-08-2004, 04:59 PM	#14
Chevy67Tk Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: PA Posts: 349	Man I need to learn to type faster __________________

03-08-2004, 05:19 PM	#15
Destructo Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Lewisville, NC Posts: 1,836	I have found that sometimes if you bump the engine over with the starter it will fall in to place, other than that it will sometimes only drop in once lined up with the pump gear exactly. __________________ 1985 Scottsdale Shortbed 4x4 Stout 350 with some "upgrades"-700r4-33x12.5" Mud Tires, Warn 8274-50 winch. 2005 Chevrolet Colorado Regular Cab 2wd 4-banger, 5 speed, Street Pack with 3.73 axle.



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03-08-2004, 08:33 PM	#16
low 84 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2002 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 2,144	zero decking usualy removes about .02 so there is now way in hell you could get a 1/4 inch gap from that. glad you got it in though. lining the oil pump slot up can be a pain sometimes __________________ '51 F100, backhalf with a narrowed 9 and coil overs, 18.5" mickeys, monte front clip, +400" sbc in the works '05 1500 Crew Cab RIP '84 swb 5/7 drop, solid cammed 408 w/ fully ported dart heads, th350 w/ 10 inch hughes, 12 bolt w/ 3.73 richmonds and a locker '80 swb 4x4 in progress: 7" lift, 350 th350/np205, d44 and 1.5" ORD tie rod, 14BFF w/discs , armored diff covers, 40" MTR's

03-08-2004, 09:08 PM	#17
1FaastC10 Account Suspended Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Elkhart, IN Posts: 6,400	not with a big screwdriver its not. i've run into that problem a few times. when i built my first engine, i had the intake off 3 times because i couldnt get it to seal properly. i put it in once, and it left a gap just like Eric's did. i didnt think much of it, put the clamp on and snugged her down. when i fired it up i heard a ca chunk as i cranked it over. ran fine until i shut it off, then apparently the dizzy walked a little bit and threw the timing way off. grabbed the dizzy, and it was as if i hadnt tightened it down at all. i always make sure that they're fully seated now.

03-09-2004, 12:56 AM	#18
76bonanza Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: St robert Mo Posts: 2,001	ocbaud Did you need anything else with your msd ie (wiring harness or different clamp for it?) Thanks __________________ 1968 c10 lowered 3" 4" 355/Th400 built by Hatfield racing in joplin MO

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