Door alignment... and other door questions

[super_kev]

Hey guys, sorry that this is a long post, but I'm stuck. I've searched the forums, but I haven't really been able to come up with something that can be applied to my door adjustment problem.

Two winters ago the passenger door on my '70 CST blazer was bashed in by an idiot on drugs coming out of a parking lot pretty fast. The insurance gave us around $1200 to fix the damage, and so I took it to a guy in town who was able to find a donor door from another blazer/truck (not sure what year either.) About $800 went to this trash door. This was before I knew about all the companies who make repo parts, and before I decided to restore the old blazer. So, how do I go about adjusting the door? I see that the bolts holding the hinge to the door have washers on them, but when I tired to remove the washer on one, it seemed that the washer was smaller than the threads on the bolt, so even if I was able to pound the washer off the bolt, I would ruin the threads. I would like to adjust to door without removing the fender. It won't shut normally, I have to slam it to get it in. There is a massive gap in front (1/2-5/8" or so) and it's absolutely tight in back. The door also bulges out near the top (the middle if you count the vent window hight) and isn't flush with the body. So I need to pull the top part in about 1/4". I've heard about using a S-wrench by Snapon to adjust the bolts. It looks like there are 4 per hinge the attach to the cowl, so I can see that this won't be a family picnic.

To review... I need to move the pass. door forward a good 1/4-3/8", and pull the top in about 1/4".

NOW...
Should I just replace the door (this one is pretty rusty, and the other one is getting bad too, so I'll have to replace them one of these days.) or try to adjust it? I remember reading a post earlier this summer about a guy/company who was going to make blazer-specific doors that didn't need to be cut from truck doors. Who makes them, are they in production, and how well do they fit? For my other door, I'll need that rubber piece that fits on top of the cut section, so does anyone make this? One more, who makes chrome or stainless vent window units? Since my truck is a CST, I'd like to get the orignal style shiny frames. I know LMC carries them, but I'm not sure if they are chrome/stainless or painted.

If you could answer my questions, I'd really appreciate it.

[super_kev]

Front. Not the best picture, but hopefully it will give you an idea.

[Gee_Emm]

If it is easy for you to take off your front fenders that will help alot to get to the bolts to adjust the doors. If you prefer to leave the front fenders on set aside a day on the weekend to sit and work and get them right by trial and error.

If you have a hacksaw and a file truck doors are VERY easy to cut down.

[71jimmy]

GMCPaul has the new "Blazer doors". Check em out at www.gmcpauls.com. They cost $280. I have not seen them myself, but I also need to replace my doors so sometime in the not too distant future I will be ordering them. My driver side door has a crack at the top hinge, I heard that is a common problem. And the passenger door is a cut down truck door. I've looked at truck doors here and there and they all seem to have some rust, maybe a dent or two which would require time/money to fix. I'm leaning toward the new shells for a bolt on and go type of thing. If you get them at GMCPauls, let us know how they turn out.

Roland

[super_kev]

Ok thanks. How about the vent window units? Anybody know where I can get some shiny ones? I've attached a picture of what my other side (good door) looks like.

[GMCPaul]

super_kev you'll find our doors here
http://www.gmcpauls.com/Body&Bumpers.htm
and you'll find the Custom/CST vent window assemblies with bright trim here
http://www.gmcpauls.com/body_2.htm
Check the rocker box condition and supports underneath as that tight door gap looks like one caused by a bad body structural steel underneath.
GMCPaul

[bpmcgee]

Gotta love GMC Pauls! Getting a $3300 order ready for them, including some of these new blazer doors!

Brian

[mastercraftkpk]

When doing your final adjusting, use a couple pieces of cardboard betweeen the door edge and the striker frame. The cardboard won't scratch your paint and gives you about the right amt. of clearance. Place the cardboard, close the door, then tighten up the bolts. Open door, remove cardboard and fine tune from there.

[super_kev]

Alrighty, thanks for the replies, I'll try that.

[JimKshortstep4x4]

Sometimes you have to shim the body mounts in order to adjust the gap between the upper part of the door and the windshield frame. There is a procedure in the assembly manual for this adjustment.

The Snap-on "S" wrench is PN S 9616.

Jim

[earnhardt221]

If you use paint stirring sticks they are just about the gap you need.

[super_kev]

Hmmm... I don't think I'll have to shim it, because the previous door fit fine. This door is pure junk. But I guess we'll see how well the new ones fit when I get them.

[earnhardt221]

As for the shiny trim around the vent window.I sandblasted mine and are having them chromed. VERY EXPENSIVE $200 to chrome those pieces. ouch chrome aint cheap

[Huck]

The chrome vent window assemblies are available from most dealers but are pricy and inconsistant in quality as I've seen some where the rubber is not setting right so be aware!! They are not hard to replace but just take time to do.
The top plastic pieces can be difficult to find and are not all that effective in keeping water out--someone is supposely having them remanufactured so we'll see. All the other rubber is available from suppliers---LMC, Paul's, etc.
The trick with hanging doors and the starting point needs to be the rear seam alignment and the leading top edge of the vent window area as the front fender can be off a lot and you will go crazy trying to align the door to the door/fender seam and get nowhere. I tend to remove the latching assembly from the rear pillar so the door wouldn't latch ------that way you align the door to the body then~~~you adjust the latching mechanism for fit.
A great tip I picked up was with the front fender off---and with a perfect fitting door----drill two small holes through the hinges where they attach to the front firewall pillars and pin them with drill bits before you remove the doors. When you replace the hinges or door, just re-pin the hinges and you will have the hinges in perfect alignment so you just need to adjust the hinge to door area. And yes it is very common for the doors to crack where the hinges mount to them--especially the drivers side that gets all the use. If you body inner rocker supports are good, truck doors will work just fine on a Blazer!! Good luck--Huck