body filler

[rickn]

getting ready to start the body work , thought i would get some input on bodyfiller /// "bondo" , duraglass , or lead , whats your thoughts

[smokekiki]

Try this...http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...threadid=90368 this is from the FAQ board.Also check on the paint board.

[walker]

I just used evercoats new Rage filler. Went on very nice.

[krazy_texan]

i use evercoat and have no complaints about it.

[Sweet72]

Evercoat works well.

[Chevyboy1962]

I'm using Evercoat Rage, and it's awesome!! It doesn't shrink like the Bondo brand, easy to sand, and barely get air bubbles to none in the Evercoat.
David

[Longhorn Man]

Hmmm, never heard of this Evercoat, but I have been away from the paint booth of 11 years or so now.
Used properly, there is nothing at all wrong with plastic filler. The duraglass and all metal have there place, but in reality, there isn't too much use for them IMO.
Lead shouldn't be used. The lead will always put off gasses, and onc you paint tha truck, the gasses will hace no place to go, so it'll build up under the paint. Air bubbled under the paint is the result.

[cc_bob]

I've always heard that Duraglass, should be the first coat over any welds. I know for sure that it sands like IRON , but if you use a rasp right before it is totally cured you can knock it down pretty quick. Bondo and other "LIGHT" fillers are typically for small blemishes and skim coats. If you are fixing small dings and such go with the lighter stuff, if you are putting in patch panels use Duraglass first (unless your ebfabman, check out his site, he does awesome work) if you have large dents, pound them out first.

Good luck

[kxmotox247]

Originally posted by Longhorn Man

Lead shouldn't be used. The lead will always put off gasses, and onc you paint tha truck, the gasses will hace no place to go, so it'll build up under the paint. Air bubbled under the paint is the result.

I've never heard that. I believe the factories still use lead in certain areas on the body. We've never had any problems with any of our lead work on our steel hotrods. I'n not calling bullsh!t, I just hadn't heard that before and it doesn't seem right.

[gonebad2]

The only filler I will use is rage. They also make the best glazing compound. A little higher priced than Bondo, but well worth the money. I bought a stinger gun for pulling dents. I'll tell you, that is the only wat to go. It speeds up the body work process considerably compared to the old slide hammer where you had to drill holes in the body. I have heard there are still some luxury cars that use lead. I would really like to learn that craft. You can really get some sharp crisp lines with lead.

[kxmotox247]

Lead is really good for areas around door edges and jams where plastic will crack. On the older cars, lead was mostly used as a seam sealer from the factory.

[rickn]

i know how to lead, but just wondering if it was worth it , mainly for cab corners and rockers

[Fred T]

Originally posted by rickn
i know how to lead, but just wondering if it was worth it , mainly for cab corners and rockers

I'm hoping you're not trying to fill rust holes, they need to be patched and welded.

For smoothing things out, the newer materials are easier to use than lead.

[rickn]

not filling in holes , going to put new corners and rockers on it

[Fred T]

Are you familiar with Martin SR. He has put together some good tips on bodywork.
http://www.camaros.net/cgi-bin/forum...=3;t=005647;p=

[Longhorn Man]

The lead gassing off was what i was told in school when i was learing body work, and I have read it in a couple magizines too...if you're getting it right...keep on doing it. Sounds like you still know a lost art.

[Hotrod70C10]

Put a vote in for Evercoat's Rage for me. The stuff is great although the only thing I used it for was to cover over the welds that filled my trim holes and a couple of very small dings.

[kxmotox247]

I talked about the lead gassing off with my father this weekend. He's the one who does the lead work. The car in my avatar is the last one he built. Its a glass body but he made his own steel hood side panels. He used lead on the bottom reveal of the panels to avoid having plastic there which would crack out from the flex of the panel. He said he's never heard of lead gassing out but he did say that the most important thing (besides safety with lead) is to make sure you get the flux off of the panel otherwise the paint will not stick tot he surface. So maybe that's somewhat related to what you learned about leadwork.
He's going to be starting on a 40' Ford Coupe that we've had for years. It's going to require a significant amount of body work around the door jams since he's going to lengthen the doors. The car has lead on all of the fenders and I'm sure he's going to be using it this time too. He and I talked about using it as a seam sealer alternative in the rain gutter on my 68'. He thought it would work but his only concern is that it might be kind of hard to work the lead with the paddles down inside the gutter. If we use lead to fill it, I'll be sure to share pictures with everyone so they can see how we did it. Maybe it'll be a better alternative to the seam sealer that everyone else uses.

[lukecp]

Just make sure to put paint...not primer....over whatever plastic-based filler you use.

I learned this the hard way...put some bondo in one of my bedsides, primered over it, about 6 months later it started cracking pretty bad...looks like crap. I think this is because the mouisture seeped throught the primer and caused this.

BTW, i used Bondo brand bondo and it works OK.....$13 a gallon will fix alot of dents for cheap, but if i was trying to do a really nice job i would use it sparingly.

[Hooter]

I have used proform brand fillers on my vehicles, if mixed properly it works just fine for me, I have used actual bondo products before and found, like others said that it shrinks too much, DONT USE BONDO TO FILL RUST, REPLACE RUST WITH METAL