c-notches suck to install

[Tom]

I decided after more then a year with the flip kit that I wanted to put my c-notches on. Couldn't be too hard, and besides, Mike did it with a sawzall so I hopfully could too.

Big mistake.

Mike, I gota give it to you. Your skills with the sawzall cannot be compared. Hell, if it wasen't for my friend Jason helping I wouldn't have gotten even half way on sawing that frame off. As it sits, its an ugly cut on both sides, and they are just a tad too far foward. Not enough to affect anything [I think ] but if you check you can tell. Anyways a warning to everyone: do not attempt this install with only a sawzall and a single 1/2" drill bit and WD40. It works, but it ain't pretty

[1FaastC10]

i used a Matco Red Line Anti Vibration air saw to cut my frame to put the 81+ bumper on it. part no RL 1325 if i remember correctly. cut through it like a hot knife through butter. yet another case where you get what you pay for.

[gchemist]

Yup, one reason I bought an air compressor.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally posted by gchemist
Yup, one reason I bought an air compressor.

Also a reason to know someone who has a Plasma Cutter

[PHOENIX]

Anyone ever used an air body saw to cut a frame?
I know most are only for 16-18 gauge at the max., but I am sure it would work. Has to be easier to handle then a sawsall.

Plasma is the way to go. Too bad they cost so damn much.

[low 84]

angle grinder with 4 inch cut off wheel.



i've done 2 truck like this and the cuts come out near perfect. i'm pretty good with a grinder though

[BaggedC10]

I used a Craftsman cut-off tool w/ great results on my 86' C10.

[cochino12]

You guys need to come to colorado and help me with mine. I'll buy the beer

[84Stepper]

ha.. I used an angle grinder also and it was a pain in the butt. The hardest part to me was drilling all the dang holes. I went through 2 brand new drills.

[Grande Rojo]

I have a flip kit on my 77' and I just put 2 inch shackles on it . I had to c-notch the frame. I used a grinder with a cut off wheel on it, what a pain in the ass. Then I welded 1/4" steel to the frame for the notch. Then I put my bed back on and the damn rearend hits the bed floor when I jump on it so I had to notch the bed floor also..... lots of work for 2 more inches but well worth it. The rear looks so much better now and its still not that low cause' my rear tires are 31" tall

[1FaastC10]

Originally posted by PHOENIX
Anyone ever used an air body saw to cut a frame?

did you read my post at all?

[Tom]

Originally posted by 84Stepper
ha.. I used an angle grinder also and it was a pain in the butt. The hardest part to me was drilling all the dang holes. I went through 2 brand new drills.

Youd be amazed at how much more the drill bit would have drilled if you had someone spraying down the bit/hole with WD40 as you drill. I couldn't believe the difference.

[78chevstepside]

I like metabo grinders with 5 inch cutting disc . these work great for cutting. metabo grinders are one of the best electric grinders on the market. For fine cutting air powered 90* angle peanut grinder with thin cutting discs work great. cutting torch ( oxyacetylene)work great also. Even for burning the holes for the bolts. a torch works just as good as a plasma cutter. I leave the plasma cutter for stainless steel. I cut my c-notch with a oxyacetylene torch. Buned the bolt holes with a torch.

[PHOENIX]

Originally posted by 1FaastC10


did you read my post at all?

I thought I did, but now that I look at it, I dont know what I was thinking

I just bought a cheap air saw a few months back and havent used it much, but it seems like it would zip through a frame no problem.
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I use my 4" grinder for cutting everything. If you use the cut off wheels you can get a cleaner cut then the grinder wheels. The flap discs work great for cleaing edges and blending in welds.
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When drilling through steel, a good bit and cutting oil is the key.
The right bit and some cutting oil make it much easier, faster, and a cleaner hole.
The cutting oil keeps the bit cool and makes it last much longer.
You can buy a little bottle of the cutting fluid at Lowes/HomeDepot and just dip the drill bit in the bottle before you drill each hole.

[TIMSPEED]

Originally posted by 78chevstepside
Even for burning the holes for the bolts. a torch works just as good as a plasma cutter. I leave the plasma cutter for stainless steel. I cut my c-notch with a oxyacetylene torch. Buned the bolt holes with a torch.

That's what I used to take off my factory bumpstops. I had a friend hit the brackets with a hammer, while I heated up the rivets. The brackets came off nice and clean.

[swervin ervin]

I'm not sure what was so hard about using a sawzall. Worked like a charm for me. I tried a 4" side grinder with cutting wheels but liked the sawzall better.

[87 STEPPER]

Originally posted by PHOENIX



----------
When drilling through steel, a good bit and cutting oil is the key.
The right bit and some cutting oil make it much easier, faster, and a cleaner hole.
The cutting oil keeps the bit cool and makes it last much longer.
You can buy a little bottle of the cutting fluid at Lowes/HomeDepot and just dip the drill bit in the bottle before you drill each hole.

Another big mistake alot of people make is drilling at a high RPM setting.

When drilling steel you want to drill at a very low RPM setting if you do this your bit will last a very long time.