04-10-2004, 09:22 PM | #1 |
collector of vintage rust
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: southern ohio
Posts: 421
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Motor mount question
Hey i am going to replace the 6 cylinder with a v-8 and am wondering if the mounts will work.Someone told me i need to move them forward and swap sides.Is this right, or do i need different mounts?
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04-10-2004, 10:48 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 127
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I just did this swap I didn't use the 6cyl towers , but i think they will work but not sure. You could use newer towers and clamshells with i think .5 inch spacer on top of frame due to frame differance. I used 72 big block towers and newer small block clamshells. The older mounts use bolt up into mount.newones use thru bolt front to back.
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04-10-2004, 10:51 PM | #3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Ohio
Posts: 127
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slide them forward, front holes and if you get the right trans you wont have to mess with drive shaft. if you need info let me know I kinda worked my way thru this swap from tilt to newer crossmember.
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04-10-2004, 10:58 PM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 335
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The truck that we are building is exactly like this....did not make any changes on the frame mounts...in fact...left them in the rearward ( 6 cyl) position.
BUT.....I am using a long water pump. Fan blade is approximately 3/8" into the opening of the fan shroud...not ideal...but will work fine. I am not moving everything to where it is supposed to be...because..... I would have to lengthen driveshaft and the same with the exhaust. Don't have the extra $100 to re-tube a driveshaft right now. Also....I am using a short shaft Turbo 350 and an HEI ignition....it is tight for the HEI....but it can be installed and removed easily. If you are using an HEI distributor (or anything but a points type distributor)...don't forget to REPLACE or bypass the factory resistor wire that feeds battery positive to the coil. Everything, well, almost every distributor but a points type distributor uses 12 volts to the coil. Good luck!! Check the website: www.acloco.com/charleetruck.html Later! |
04-10-2004, 11:15 PM | #5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: kc
Posts: 229
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use search on v8 swap, lots of good info., im not much of a mechanic and i was able to do the swap last year. you'll need the v8 towers and motor mounts, all the holes are already drilled from the factory to move the motor to the v8 position( looks so much better that way) that includes the tranny crossmember. you will have to spend about 100.00 to get drive shaft resleeved but that includes new u joints and balancing. dont make a job out of it, take your time and enjoy it.
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71 C10 SWB BLACK AND WHITE 350 CRATE TH350 ENJOY LIFE |
04-11-2004, 12:04 PM | #6 |
collector of vintage rust
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: southern ohio
Posts: 421
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Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it!
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04-11-2004, 02:53 PM | #7 |
Cause the Chicks DIG IT!!
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Beaufort SC
Posts: 509
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you can use the motor mounts on the 6. just take them off and use just the pad. take off that other extension part. they bolt right onto the side of the 350. I didn't move mine forward but you can. It's pretty simple. Just remember like the other guy said to make sure if you're using HEI to rewire properly
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04-12-2004, 12:14 AM | #8 |
its all about the +6 inches
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Hilliard Ohio
Posts: 2,690
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Everyone saying to use the inline position is asuming it is a 250.
If it is a 292, then it'll have one tower in the small block place, and one in the rearward inline place. Pesonally, i would get all the proper components to move it up where the small block should be. |
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