04-12-2004, 10:25 AM | #1 |
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Horn wiring question
How is the horn wired? Specifically, are the dk red and dk green wires coming off the fuse block, that plug into the relay bolted to inner firewall the key? How can I test where my horn is failing? Do I test at the firewall relay, and if so, how should I test it? From there where does the voltage travel? I assume to the heavy dk green wire that attaches to horn near voltage regulator.
Can I test if the horn works by running a hot wire from battery to it? Basically, my question boils down to: Where are the points of failure starting with the wiring from the column and ending with the spade connection on the horn on the rad support? ...and how do I test each point?
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
04-12-2004, 10:28 AM | #2 |
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hmmm not sure on that one Jeff. My molested truck has a button on the dash where one wire goes to the horn and the other to constant power . I don't have the horn wired to the steering wheel anymore.
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04-12-2004, 10:33 AM | #3 | |
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Quote:
I just went thru this thing and replaced all the chopped wiring with unmolested originals, as I can't stand non-stock wires and wire nuts. Makes trouble shooting much easier when 30 years of hacks are removed from the equation. As you can see from my questions, I still have a brake light and horn issue.
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
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04-12-2004, 10:45 AM | #4 |
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yes you can run a hot 12 to the horn to see if it works, i like to take the horn out of the truck and cleanin the mount area to make sure of good ground then clean the contacts in the connector (heavy green) that go to horn if the horns good take multi meter or testlight to the drk green wire and see if you have volts there whgen hittin the button
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04-12-2004, 10:52 AM | #5 | |
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Quote:
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
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04-12-2004, 10:53 AM | #6 |
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Jeff,
My experience has been that the contact in the horn button is the major problem area. The shaft/column has to be grounded so problems with the rag joint ground are common. I would start with the horns first. Run 12 volts to each horn. If they work, run 12 volts to the green wire at relay. Relays very seldom fail, but you might ground the wire from the horn button at the relay. I don't remember the color but it is not red or green and it is smaller than the power and horn lead wires. If everything is working at this point only the wire, column ground, horn brush and horn button contact is left to check. Pull the horn button and run a ground wire from the retainer to a known ground. If the horn blows than the horn wire/horn brush are good. Ground the retainer to the steering column. If the horn blows, the column/shaft ground is good and there is a problem with the contact. If the horn does not blow there is aground problem with the column/shaft. Good luck! Jim |
04-12-2004, 11:09 AM | #7 |
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Spoken like a man with experience. Thanks again Jim!
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Currently on or near the homestead: 67 Chevy SWB 2WD stepside 350/3 on tree (Pat's) 67 GMC SWB 2WD Fleet 402/auto (Brian's under construction) 67 Chevy 3/4 ton 2WD 402/auto (Business Hauler) 67 Chevy 1 ton dually 2WD 396/4 speed (Former business hauler, Needs TLC) 68 Chevy 1/2 ton Suburban 2WD 250 six/3 on tree (Brian's Needs TLC) 70 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD 350/4 speed (Pat's - Disguised as a 68 GMC) 71 Chevy SWB stepside (Crushed by tree - parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD (Parts donor) 72 Chevy 3/4 ton 4WD Suburban (Parts Donor) 72 GMC 3/4 ton 4WD 292 six/4 speed (Mine - Disguised as a 67 GMC) 81 GMC 4WD Dually Dump Body 350/4 speed (Business Hauler) 82 Camaro Z/28 355/Super T-10 (Pat's toy) 93 Caprice 9C1 (Brian's Cop Car) 02 Toyota Camry (Reliable but a souless steel and plastic hulk) 2011 2SS RS Camaro M6 Factory Hurst Shifter Maybe I need to sell some of this crap Yet another Bozo with a sawz-all |
04-12-2004, 03:08 PM | #8 |
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Just to give you an idea, My horn works great, the problem is that when I turn the steering wheel it will intermittantly go off, giving a little beep. When you push the horn button, it completes the circuit by grounding. When I turn my wheel, the horn button inside grazes the metal,thus creating a complete circuit, hence my random 'beep'.
That's why I unplug mine until inspection time. I wish I could leave it plugged in, but the crazy beep is enough to freak out other drivers all the time. Shawn
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04-12-2004, 08:55 PM | #9 |
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Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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my experience today
Fixed mine today. Started at the relay and verified 12 V on the red wire. 2nd put a ohm meter between the black wire and ground and pushed button should get a short-did not so I moved up to the steering wheel and removed the steering wheel, but first the button sticking up I shorted to the center and looked for sparks(relay was hooked back up) no sparks then took steering wheel off and shorted the next button to the center of the column threads and got sparks so I figured the problem was the cancelling cam which has the first spring loaded button. But had anothe problem had the relay click but no horn so I cleaned up the horn mounting and now I have my horn. Here's some pics:
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
04-12-2004, 08:56 PM | #10 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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I replaced the dirty cancelling cam with the clean one that came with an auto column I had.
In this pic at about 1 o'clock you can see the horn contact that allows the 360 degree motion. I shorted it to the center there.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
04-12-2004, 08:59 PM | #11 |
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Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
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Conected a test light between ground and the green wire at the horn to verify 12 V was making it. Then I cleaned the mounting of the horn for a better ground.
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm |
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