[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by 72bigred

Yes I remember that post. It stated to pull the torsion out and rotate it "this far" I assume you would rotate it so that it would initially have less spring rate so you would then have to tighten your bolt up further in order to achive some type of spring rate. Since you rotated it whatever distance in the tightest setting you would be lower than factory height. Yet I also read that someone tried this and it did not work for them..but did they rotate far enough.. I would make sence that it would work.. I although have not tried..

Reid

Here it is:
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...48#post2717748

Originally Posted by Imperial Kustom

Those bump stops are really easy to cut with a sawzall. They also pull out. But now that your torsion bar adjusters are hanging way down, a good and safe idea is to remove them from the control arms and turn them one spline. That puts them back to the stock adjustment and still keeps the truck low. Otherwise they drag on speed bumps, driveways, gas station entrances, etc. Then you could end up finding out the hard way, like I did, that those bolt heads don't last very long and break. Mine broke doing 60 mph and dug into the pavement about an inch and a half. Shot me off the road and gave me a pretty interesting ride!

Originally Posted by Imperial Kustom

Depending on how rusty they are in the arms, the can be a pain. A pipe and big hammer will do the trick (after removing the adjuster bolt and unbolting the torsion crossmember. easy.). There are only six splines, so rotate inward one spline and the torsion bar geometry returns almost stock and the truck stays low!