71' K10 modernizing

[bobbylong]

I have a71’ K10 I plan on modernizing it and making it my daily driver. I want to convert it from a floor shift manual to a column shift automatic, upgrade the suspension, and put I’d like to replace the front hubs with electric locking hubs.

I could use suggestions and ideas on the following, please.

1. Transmission swap from manual to auto, 700r4? TH350? TH400?
2. Suspension upgrade, I’d like to keep it close to stalk ride height and have the smoothest best driver possible.
3. Front hub swop, I’d like to change the manual locking hubs to electric if possible and change the floor shifter to a dash switch as well.

Any ideas would be helpful.

Thanks

[andrewmp6]

No one makes a electric hub,The newer stuff locks in and out of the front diff.The ford super dutys have vacuum locking hubs.Honestly the best hubs are manual locking or run a drive gear in the hub.On the trans i would go 700r4 or 4l60 or 4l80e depends your budget and skill.?But swapping a trans in a 4x4 depends on what t case you have now and do you want to keep it out run something else.On the Suspension you can buy new springs and good shocks that does help.

[special-K]

Leave it as it is and just drive it as they've been driven all these years. You asked and that's my suggestion. There is no reason a person can't daily drive one just as they are. I do, except on salty roads (). If you want to do all that, that's fine. We all do what we want to our trucks. Just saying you don't "have to" do any of that.
There are only certain times you may need 4wd in and out driving on the road. When those times occur you just lock the hubs in and hit the road in 2wd till you hit a bad spot. You have shift-on-the-fly. lever/button, what's the difference?

[Mike C]

I'm with Special-K here all the way. The granny gear 4 speed is the best tool ever applied to a 4x4.

Converting to an auto is a complete waste if you don't do overdrive IMO, and you lose the low gear and control that the SM465 provides so you are moving backwards.

The manual trans turns several hundred lower RPM on the road than a TH350 or TH400 because of the converter slippage. The manual also gets better mileage for the same reason.

There are 2 kinds of automatic transmissions, those that have quit working and those that will quit working and that's just a fact of how they work. My SM465 has 350,000+ miles on it and got a clutch at 252k and it's still trucking along...

When I need 4 wheel drive I know it and engage the hubs. Then when it's called for, shift the lever into high or low depending on your need. (With an SM465 it is seldom "Low"!)

GM had "auto-locking" hubs starting around 1980 that could be swapped on easily, but they often proved unreliable and were replaced with manual locking hubs by owners over time. Manual hubs and manual transmissions are ALWAYS in the position the driver choice for them.

The NP205 transfercase is a manually shifted case and that's all it will ever be. And it is the benchmark by which every other transfer case is measured. It's only drawback is the 1.95 low range, but that is completely negated with an SM465. Removing the SM465/NP205 is 4 steps backward IMO.

There was more engineering effort applied to the stock spring setup on one of these than every other aftermarket setup combined. If smoothest ride is your goal, leave it stock with the appropriate Bilstein shock. Put good radial tires on it and drive.

If you really want a cushy, automatic, late model style ride in an early truck just start with a two wheel drive C10 and add your auto trans with overdrive and AC and rock it daily.

[$20071k10]

I agree with special-k and mikeC leave it as is. if you want more modern go buy more modern!

[72MARIO]

I will trade you all of the electric 4wd parts in my Tahoe. It works most of the time. .... Just can't beat manual hubs and a shifter on the floor to engage 4wd when needed.

[andrewmp6]

Thinking outside the box you can add a overdrive to your trans now,Like http://www.high-impact.net/transmiss...roverdrive.htm or https://www.gearvendors.com/ on the end of the t case.

[Mike C]

Just make sure and not run 4x4 while the OD is engaged....

[bobbylong]

Thanks fellas, some of you were helpful.

[Chrispbrown36]

I think what it really comes down to is value. Sure you can go all out and rebuild the truck with modern luxuries, but in the end you will probably end up being better off buying a newer truck that already has what you want out of the factory. Aftermarket parts can get pricey, especially if you buy quality.
The manual to auto conversion has been done many times, try the search feature to find some details. To get the smoothest ride buy quality shocks and make sure everything else is in good shape. Automatic lockouts can probably be swapped in for the manual hubs, again the search feature will probably show someone that has done it, but remember they are not nearly as reliable. As far as transmissions go, if you want overdrive 700r4 is reliable. If you want tougher and can sacrifice the overdrive a 350 or 400 will do and are pretty easy to find.
In the end it is your truck and your choice.....enjoy it and get some pictures of the old girl on here! I would love to find a 71 k10 in good shape.

[andrewmp6]

If it was me i would look in to a ls swap the 5.3 are still cheap enough and easy to get.Use a 4l60e with the motor and get a adapter and run a np205 so you have a good t case in it.The push button 4x4 you want wouldn't work unless you used a ford front axle in the truck.To me thats a lot of work to change axles and have a crappy t case in it.The push button t cases and newer ones are aluminum and chain driven not the strongest thing made.Something like the np205 which is steel and gear driven is a stronger case and less parts to go wrong.

[special-K]

Put 35s on there. Makes for a simple "overdrive" that helps you "drive over" more. for a daily driver in the Washington,DC area, you don't even need 4wd. They way the whole world freaks out like the world will end and the roads people scramble feverishly to clear roads ASAP, at the expense of your classic truck's sheet metal, you can get anywhere in anything, except maybe a side street in a bad storm. Heck, these days they give 26% (govt. workers) of the population off at the mention of snow. If anyone has a classic 4wd in this area that isn't a rust bucket it's because either it was never driven in the salt, came from the arid west where it never saw salt, or has had a full body restoration. It makes me cringe to see these new found classic car owners out in their cars in the dead of winter on bleached white dry roads right after a snow. Sure, it's a nice day, but I wait till after two good spring rains to wash the roads before mine come out. Guys who stayed with the old stuff figured this out by sometime in the '80s.

[Nitis]

If you want to accomplish all of this things look up the hybrid builds where guys chop up a tahoe or yukon then cut the floor out of the cab of a 67-72 and set it on the floor of the newer rig

You get your electronics and your ride and your od

You have a fairly desirable rig with the manual 4wd don't chop it up

[bobbylong]

Hey fellas
I've been overseas for years now but I'm back and want to finally get started on my truck. I've reread this thread and I think I'll stay with a manual tranny, but I would like something a bit better suited for byway driving. I've seen a few threads on the NV4500 saying it's a good option, but those threads are several years old and I'm wondering if there may be other options? I also have a quick question about moving the motor mounts forward a couple inches as the threads recommend to avoid dealing with transfer case and drive shaft issues. I've never moved an engine forward (or back) is there a aftermarket mount that'll bolt in to achieve the move?

[57taskforce]

The Nv4500 is doable but it’s easier with a 1985 and later NP205. You’ll have to convert to a hydraulic clutch going that route too. The pre 85 205’s need a good bit of work to run the 32 spline input that the 4500 requires. The 4500 pretty much just bolts up to the late style 205 case.

I agree with Tim and Mike overall on this one… I do realize the bulk of this thread is several years old.


Here’s a little reading on the subject

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/np205...stions.253679/

[bobbylong]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

The Nv4500 is doable but it’s easier with a 1985 and later NP205. You’ll have to convert to a hydraulic clutch going that route too. The pre 85 205’s need a good bit of work to run the 32 spline input that the 4500 requires. The 4500 pretty much just bolts up to the late style 205 case.

I agree with Tim and Mike overall on this one… I do realize the bulk of this thread is several years old.


Here’s a little reading on the subject

https://ck5.com/forums/threads/np205...stions.253679/

Thanks, I'll start the search for '85 or later NP205 and an NV4500. I know this post is old, but I"m not smart enough to figure out how to start a new thread

I've also seen on here that I'll need to move the motor forward 2" or so? Are there aftermarket mounts that do that?

Thank you.

[Orange Crate]

Originally Posted by bobbylong

Thanks, I'll start the search for '85 or later NP205

Oh God I needed a good laugh today.....

[57taskforce]

If you end up moving it forward all you have to do is slide the engine crossmember forward and redrill the holes. If you’re lucky they might even land in the forward mounting holes that are present from the factory. It’s definitely easier/cheaper to move the engine forward and the transfer case crossmember back, because you will be modifying drive shafts then. The front will have to be modified regardless if you use the late style np205 front flange yoke. As for finding the late 205; they only came factory in sm465 and th400 equipped 85-91 square body K30’s. The case will be physically the same between the two transmissions.

[57taskforce]

lol I was thinking the same thing, good luck they are hard to find.

[birdistheword]

Those 6 bolt round pattern NP205s are pretty pricey if you can find one. If you still want a smoother ride I would look into Alcan or Deaver spring companies. They make custom leaf springs for your specific application. You could also go through Offroad Design as well. I did a 52"/56" spring swap on my 69 K20. I used the stock rear 52" spring up front and swapped the thick overload for a short add-a-leaf. In back I moved the rear spring hanger towards the rear to use a custom set of springs from Offroad Design. It came out to about a 5-6" lift and rides way better than stock. I used Bilstein shocks and did a cross over steering conversion as well.

[57taskforce]

Did you do crossover on the dana 44? How do you like the crossover at 5-6” lift? I’ve got 5 under my K20 with a front D60 and have been contemplating crossover because of the lack of good(in my opinion) steering correction options for the stock steering setup with a 60.

[birdistheword]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

Did you do crossover on the dana 44? How do you like the crossover at 5-6” lift? I’ve got 5 under my K20 with a front D60 and have been contemplating crossover because of the lack of good(in my opinion) steering correction options for the stock steering setup with a 60.

Yeah I did cross over on the Dana 44. Found a machined passenger side knuckle locally. Used the kit from Offroad Design along with a Redhead 2wd steering box. It's pretty nice and can steer with one finger.

[GSP7]

electric hubs ?