Tremec in a 66 c10

[truckin66]

Im installing a tremec tko in a 66 c10 to replace the super t10. I used the stock cast bellhousing and also made a crossmember for the tailshaft. Im considering going with a 621 car bellhousing and removing the stock bellhousing crossmember to make it easier to service clutch parts. It was a pain taking this apart. I orginally installed the clutch kit and bellhousing on the motor before i installed the motor. What clutch fork and link rod would i need. Will the stock cast fork work with the aluminum bells? Im open to other ideas too.

[concretekiller]

in for information on this too. I have a '65 with a 350 and a borg and warner t18. horrible for highway driving, so I plan to go with the magnum 6 speed. im not sure what bell housing I have, but planned to use something new. looking to acquire through American powertrain.

[concretekiller]

having a high hump put in as we speak as well.

[TJ's Chevy]

I'll be installing a tko behind my hopped up 292 6 banger. Interested to hear opinions as well.

[Captainfab]

I believe the cast fork will work in the 621 bellhousing, but I can't say for certain having not done that. If it were mine, I would use the stamped fork that would typically be used with the bellhousing and just shorten the pushrod between the bellcrank and the fork. you will also need a different end on the pushrod to mate up with the stamped fork.

[truckin66]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I believe the cast fork will work in the 621 bellhousing, but I can't say for certain having not done that. If it were mine, I would use the stamped fork that would typically be used with the bellhousing and just shorten the pushrod between the bellcrank and the fork. you will also need a different end on the pushrod to mate up with the stamped fork.

What stamped fork would you use? A camaro one? There seems to be quite a few different forks out there. What are you running for a bell in your truck?

[Captainfab]

I don't have a particular stamped fork in mind. I would have to do a little research before selecting one that is close to the same ratio as the cast fork. I do not have a truck that is setup with anything other than a stock bellhousing and trans.

Originally Posted by truckin66

What stamped fork would you use? A camaro one? There seems to be quite a few different forks out there. What are you running for a bell in your truck?

[66 C10 383]

I'm not sure the truck clutch fork will work with a passenger style bell. It might ... just to be sure, I'd run the correct fork for the bell you use.

As for the linkage rods, I'm replacing mine with these, they have the heim joints in them. I've used them on a different car I had and they've nice and smooth.

http://cmc.speeddirect.com/items.asp...atus=0&Tp=&Bc=

The upper rods come in 2 different lengths so check the notes on the website.

[BigDan3131]

Is there any reason why you wouldn't just use the Lakewood steel bell housing? Explosion proof is a nice way of saving toes and testicles don't you think?

[truckin66]

Originally Posted by BigDan3131

Is there any reason why you wouldn't just use the Lakewood steel bell housing? Explosion proof is a nice way of saving toes and testicles don't you think?

Yeah i guess. I haven't totally ruled out a blowproof bell yet. I know that things can go wrong, but i dont intend power shifting or doing any high rpm clutch drops. If aluminum or cast bells are so dangerous why do they make them? There is always a chance I could roll over too but im not goung to go and put a rollcage in every vehicle I own either. I know what you mean though it would suck if a flywheel did explode. I am going to go with a billet steel flywheel.

[66 C10 383]

I am, but I've had this a long time. They are close to $400 now but still cheaper than losing body parts. If I'd had an original stock alum bell, I wouldn't have a problem using one of those either.

[HackJob65]

Something to pay attention to is the pivot points and lengths of fulcrum on manual clutch systems. These were originally designed as a complete assembly from the pedal to the contact at the throwout bearing. Changing only one variable in the assembly can have adverse affects ranging from too little throwout bearing travel which won't fully disengage the clutch to too much travel which can damage the pressure plate. Many of the aluminum muscle era car bellhousings forks were designed to hug the bell housing closer towards the engine and lower in the engine bay. Which can also make the pushrod from the bellcrank run at an angle and have poor clutching affects. I am speaking from the school of hard knocks on this one being my end result was a complete fabrication from the pedal to the clutchfork. Using him joints and paying attention to the details make an excellent clutching assembly but it seems many folks just go hydraulic these days like the units from speedway.

[66 C10 383]

When I bought my Lakewood there wasn't anybody reproducing the stock style aluminum bells. I also couldn't find a GOOD factory one either.

Part of my concern on my setup was the added weight of the T56. Mine is the aftermarket T56 which uses a 1/2" steel plate which bolts to the bellhousing and then the trans bolts to the adapter plate. The extra weight of the trans on the (OLD) alum bell using 4 bolts had me concerned. Stock T56 uses multiple bolts into an alum bell.

The blowproof bells were also developed years ago when the clutch & flywheels were nowhere as strong as they are today. Still, with that said, anything can happen. Like you said, I don't plan on 5000+ rpm launches either.