Which Headers?

[1972c10pu]

72 c10 383 stroker with a high torque starter. Anyone know what headers fit in there nice ? The flowtechs i have now we had to heat them up and dint them to fit around the starter.

[ghackett1]

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...1&d=1703432248

My Hooker Headers spec’d for my 68 C10 SBC slipped right in from the top.
2840 HKR

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by ghackett1

https://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vbo...1&d=1703432248

My Hooker Headers spec’d for my 68 C10 SBC slipped right in from the top.
2840 HKR

How far below the frame do they hang and is spark plug access okay?
I've been looking for long tubes with 1 3/4" primaries for a bit.
Do you happen to have an under truck pic of where they land?
Thanks for the great post most helpful!
Merry Christmas!

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

How far below the frame do they hang and is spark plug access okay?
I've been looking for long tubes with 1 3/4" primaries for a bit.
Do you happen to have an under truck pic of where they land?
Thanks for the great post most helpful!
Merry Christmas!

I’ll need to get a pic of that for you. They don’t hang down low but like I said I’ll post a pic.

[Cal10]

I can’t speak for a small block, but I used Hooker comp headers on my big block swap and the cleared everything just fine, even mechanical clutch linkage. Plus they bend the tubes in a way that still lets you get a starter in and out with them installed. Spark plugs are easy too, better than the manifolds.

[tim_mc]

I have Summit's stainless full length headers with no fitment issues. P/N SUM-G9006-SS:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006-ss

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by tim_mc

I have Summit's stainless full length headers with no fitment issues. P/N SUM-G9006-SS:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g9006-ss

Those look great but the primary tube is only 1 1/2".
The 383 needs 1 3/4" primaries which the 2840HKR Hookers provide.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

The 383 needs 1 3/4" primaries which the 2840HKR Hookers provide.

Depends on the engine components and max RPM. I once had a mild 383 that would turn >5500 RPM with 1-1/2" primaries headers left over from a 350. I had planned to replace them, but never did.

Sometimes larger 1-3/4 tubes can cause spark plug and header bolt access problems.

I used these Hedman USA-made stainless headers. Welds and fit are top drawer. But they use 1-5/8 tubes and are not full length, so probably wouldn't work for you.

Hedman #62010

Edit: My truck has a small AC Delco permanent magnet starter.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Depends on the engine components and max RPM. I once had a mild 383 that would turn >5500 RPM with 1-1/2" primaries left over from a 350. I had planned to replace them, but never did.

Sometimes larger 1-3/4 tubes can cause spark plug and header bolt access problems.

I used these Hedman USA-made stainless headers. Welds and fit are top drawer. But they use 1-5/8 tubes and are not full length, so probably wouldn't work for you.

Hedman #62010

Edit: My truck has a small AC Delco permanent magnet starter.

I have the mild steel version of what you have pictured and spark plug access is tight. I have to use the Accel "shorty plugs" which limits me to one heat range.
My goals are to maximize torque and horsepower along with better plug access.
The 1 5/8" run fine with a mild cam and I don't see any reason the mid length Hedmans won't work for 1972c10pu.
I have plenty of clearance around the starter and installed the headers without having to take it out.
I'm looking forward to ghackett1's response to plug access question and pic.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

I have the mild steel version of what you have pictured and spark plug access is tight. I have to use the Accel "shorty plugs" which limits me to one heat range.

Yes, cylinders #6 and #8 are a PITA, and #5 to a lesser extent. If the #2 tube was even 1/4" lower, there wouldn't be a problem with accessing #8.

I shortened a cheap Autozone spark 5/8" plug socket that I can turn with an open end wrench, but will have to loosen the header bolts a little if/when I change the plugs. I am using NGK plugs so have several heat ranges to choose from.

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Yes, cylinders #6 and #8 are a PITA, and #5 to a lesser extent. If the #2 tube was even 1/4" lower, there wouldn't be a problem with accessing #8.

I shortened a cheap Autozone plug socket that I can turn with an open end wrench, but will have to loosen the header bolts a little if/when I change the plugs. I am using NGK plugs so have several heat ranges to choose from.

#3 is the worst one for me. I use a plug wrench on some and a box end on the others.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

#3 is the worst one for me. I use a plug wrench on some and a box end on the others.

As well-made as these headers are, I'm sure there's still some variance from set to set. Also, spark plug locations can vary between brands of heads. The ones in my photos are very old stock replacements from ProTopline before they went out of business. I don't remember the last time I had an old car or truck with heads that came on the stock engine!

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by MikeB

As well-made as these headers are, I'm sure there's still some variance from set to set. Also, spark plug locations can vary between brands of heads. The ones in my photos are very old stock replacements from ProTopline before they went out of business. I don't remember the last time I had an old car or truck with heads that came on the stock engine!

I'm buying the AFR 195cc Street heads and want the most they can give.
I'll call AFR on Monday and see what the location difference may be between the Edelbrock E-Force heads I have now and the ProTopline's you have.
Great feedback Mike I appreciate it!

https://www.airflowresearch.com/195c...nder-head/p541

[kwmech]

Block huggers or some corvette ramhorns

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

I'm buying the AFR 195cc Street heads and want the most they can give.
I'll call AFR on Monday and see what the location difference may be between the Edelbrock E-Force heads I have now and the ProTopline's you have.

I think AFR 195 heads have been a great choice for >20 years. We used them at a shop where I worked on Saturdays back in the day, based on some dyno pulls the owner had run against other heads.

Wow, you're the first guy that I've heard from who had those Pro Topline heads, or any Pro Topline head, for that matter. Got mine from Summit back around 2004 for something like $250/pair bare. I think that's about when the company folded and RHS bought existing stock and tooling. Mine are kind of oddball with 75cc chambers and 2.02/1.60 valves. "Stock replacement" for what I'm not sure. Maybe early to late 70s performance engines, after compression ratios dropped???

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I think AFR 195 heads have been a great choice for >20 years. We used them at a shop where I worked on Saturdays back in the day, based on some dyno pulls the owner had run against other heads.

Wow, you're the first guy that I've heard from who had those Pro Topline heads, or any Pro Topline head, for that matter. Got mine from Summit back around 2004 for something like $250/pair bare. I think that's about when the company folded and RHS bought existing stock and tooling. Mine are kind of oddball with 75cc chambers and 2.02/1.60 valves. "Stock replacement" for what I'm not sure. Maybe early to late 70s performance engines, after compression ratios dropped???

I have the Edelbrock heads right now not the Pro Toplines.....I've never had those.
I'm assuming the fitment will be similar between the different brands and models but we will see.

[MySons68C20]

ttt

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

I have the Edelbrock heads right now not the Pro Toplines.....I've never had those.
I'm assuming the fitment will be similar between the different brands and models but we will see.

Over the years I have learned that exhaust ports on aftermarket heads are sometimes raised higher than those on stock 60s-80s heads, and the header mounting surfaces can stick out farther (making engine width wider). One or both of those issues apply to Dart Iron Eagles, Brodix IK-series, and even GM Vortec heads I've used over the years. Oh yeah, I forgot valve cover gasket "rails" that are raised 1/2" or so to reduce leaks. That can sometime cause a valve cover to interfere with with an alternator or AC compressor.

I've actually had to re-fab compressor brackets, notch frame rails for header tubes, and raise exhaust pipes where they connect to header collectors. And some heads will have spark plug holes in slightly different locations from stock, Vortecs being a good example. But other than that...

[MySons68C20]

Originally Posted by MikeB

Over the years I have learned that exhaust ports on aftermarket heads are sometimes raised higher than those on stock 60s-80s heads, and the header mounting surfaces can stick out farther (making engine width wider). One or both of those issues apply to Dart Iron Eagles, Brodix IK-series, and even GM Vortec heads I've used over the years. Oh yeah, I forgot valve cover gasket "rails" that are raised 1/2" or so to reduce leaks. That can sometime cause a valve cover to interfere with with an alternator or AC compressor.

I've actually had to re-fab compressor brackets, notch frame rails for header tubes, and raise exhaust pipes where they connect to header collectors. And some heads will have spark plug holes in slightly different locations from stock, Vortecs being a good example. But other than that...

My biggest concern right now is how low the Hookers will hang below the frame.
Since I have mid length right now I know the connection to the header will change.
I'm hoping G will take a pic just to confirm.
I have no A/c to worry about and have about 3/4"+ frame clearance with the current Heddmans.
Thanks for the input it really helps!

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

My biggest concern right now is how low the Hookers will hang below the frame.

I've installed two sets of full length headers on Chevy trucks. Hedman Elites with 14ga tubes (circa 2002) hung down a little more than I'd like, with one collector higher than the other. A set of Patriots (2018) tucked up really well.

Just now remembered seeing Hookers on 67-72 and they hung way down.

Might want to read buyers' comment at Summit and Jegs.

[71 super]

The hedman 1.75 headers fit well, but will need to be installed from the bottom if the truck 's engine is in the stock v8 location (front holes). the headers will be tight but are created exactly like the 1 5/8 versions. you will have some issues with the number 3/5 plug wires so plan on a set of two of the boots from dei. the headers actually have very good clearance unless you are running bags especially for full length headers. If you are bagged or really low static, buy a set of mid lengths, I used a set on my 68 anniversary truck with 383 / brodix set up and had to do a minor trim of frame rail to clear tubes. Headers on it were for Camaro i think. Can post pics after work, but they alowed me to place exhaust inside the frame rail area to hide it.

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

How far below the frame do they hang and is spark plug access okay?
I've been looking for long tubes with 1 3/4" primaries for a bit.
Do you happen to have an under truck pic of where they land?
Thanks for the great post most helpful!
Merry Christmas!

Pics of both sides showing the installed headers discussed above.

MAYBE SOMEONE CAN ROTATE THE PICS FOR ME-THANK YOU

[MySons68C20]

Thank you for the pics!

[ghackett1]

Originally Posted by MySons68C20

Thank you for the pics!

Your very welcome.

[jerry moss]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Block huggers or some corvette ramhorns

agreed 100% I have had a few trucks with them and they work great.