Bought My Uncles '69 Chevy 1/2 Ton Today

[raggedjim]

If you're ever in western Kentucky I have a stock 4-barrel intake you can have. Or are you keeping the 2-barrel?

Rg

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

If you're ever in western Kentucky I have a stock 4-barrel intake you can have. Or are you keeping the 2-barrel?

Rg

Thanks Jim. I am planning on keeping the stock 2 barrel. I bought a rebuild kit for it but it needs to be soaked in cleaner and I don't have any.

I was just watching this video last night and I think I will try his method unless someone reading this has any negative input about the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Y23cfaH4hE
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[sixty8HDC30]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Thanks Jim. I am planning on keeping the stock 2 barrel. I bought a rebuild kit for it but it needs to be soaked in cleaner and I don't have any.

I was just watching this video last night and I think I will try his method unless someone reading this has any negative input about the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Y23cfaH4hE
.

Looks like this works great. Just be super careful when using muriatic acid. I use it at work and it is super nasty stuff. Eye protection and a mask even when outside. One whiff of that stuff and you'll know it.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Thanks Jim. I am planning on keeping the stock 2 barrel. I bought a rebuild kit for it but it needs to be soaked in cleaner and I don't have any.

I was just watching this video last night and I think I will try his method unless someone reading this has any negative input about the process.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Y23cfaH4hE
.

Did you read his caution note that says for aluminum carbs. I believe most stock carbs as made from Zinc.

[Steeveedee]

I wouldn't use muriatic acid on a carburetor. There might not be much left of it. I didn't want to buy the parts dip last time I rebuilt my carb. I used acetone and denatured alcohol. They both dissolve different things without trashing the metal.

[Getter-Done]

I would not use Muriatic acid either.

JMHO.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

Did you read his caution note that says for aluminum carbs. I believe most stock carbs as made from Zinc.

I did read that but I didn't know what the GM carbs were made from. I do have a couple more Chevy 2 barrels so I will try one of those first.

Thanks for the heads up.

[CG]

So is this truck going to be a keeper? Its really coming along nicely.

[Louisvillekytruck]

Great story and nice truck thanks for sharing

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by CG

So is this truck going to be a keeper? Its really coming along nicely.

Yes, I am going to keep it as long as I can, then it will be offered to members of the original owners (my uncle) family.

Originally Posted by Louisvillekytruck

Great story and nice truck thanks for sharing

Thanks!

[raggedjim]

We used to use muriatic acid to eat aluminum chips from our filter system drums. It was full strength and eats aluminum like crazy! I see he diluted it quite a bit. Only testing will tell how well it works. Good luck! Rg

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by raggedjim

We used to use muriatic acid to eat aluminum chips from our filter system drums. It was full strength and eats aluminum like crazy! I see he diluted it quite a bit. Only testing will tell how well it works. Good luck! Rg

Thanks for the information Jim.
.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I wouldn't use muriatic acid on a carburetor. There might not be much left of it. I didn't want to buy the parts dip last time I rebuilt my carb. I used acetone and denatured alcohol. They both dissolve different things without trashing the metal.

Are you talking about using a mix of acetone and denatured alcohol, or putting it in acetone for one cleaning and putting it in denatured alcohol for the second cleaning?

[Steeveedee]

I mixed them, but it could be done separately, too. The idea was that the acetone gets the petroleum crud and the DNA gets any alcohol crud. McKay makes a parts dip that works very well, but I would only use it maybe once more in my lifetime, so I opted for acetone and DNA.

[LockDoc]

-
Thanks for the information everyone.

[MikeB]

An ultrasonic cleaner at 150-170 degrees with 3/4 water, 1/4 Simple Green will clean the surfaces, even nooks and crannies. You'll still have to use carb cleaner and a brush on some parts, and probably carb cleaner and compressed air to make sure all the air and fuel passages aren't blocked. Wouldn't hurt to spray some de-greaser on the carb parts and let them sit a while before dropping them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Any kind of acid? No way for this guy.

This is a long one made for rifle cleaning that I borrowed from a guy.

[Steeveedee]

There is an organic acid, called tri-cresyl-phosphate, aka TCP, which was the detergent in SHELL gasoline, as opposed to ethylene chloride or ethylene bromide which other fuel providers used to clean the lead from tetraethyl lead off the valves. It is what left all the crusty yellow deposits on spark plugs, back in the day. All this stuff is a Class B poison. The McKay carb cleaner uses TCP, which is the strongest organic acid.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by MikeB

An ultrasonic cleaner at 150-170 degrees with 3/4 water, 1/4 Simple Green will clean the surfaces, even nooks and crannies. You'll still have to use carb cleaner and a brush on some parts, and probably carb cleaner and compressed air to make sure all the air and fuel passages aren't blocked. Wouldn't hurt to spray some de-greaser on the carb parts and let them sit a while before dropping them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Any kind of acid? No way for this guy.

This is a long one made for rifle cleaning that I borrowed from a guy.

I have a 30L USC from Vevor.

I must have one like this.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is an organic acid, called tri-cresyl-phosphate, aka TCP, which was the detergent in SHELL gasoline, as opposed to ethylene chloride or ethylene bromide which other fuel providers used to clean the lead from tetraethyl lead off the valves. It is what left all the crusty yellow deposits on spark plugs, back in the day. All this stuff is a Class B poison. The McKay carb cleaner uses TCP, which is the strongest organic acid.

I have been doing experiments.

I will try this stuff you speak of.

Pine-Sol is my Favorite so far.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by MikeB

An ultrasonic cleaner at 150-170 degrees with 3/4 water, 1/4 Simple Green will clean the surfaces, even nooks and crannies. You'll still have to use carb cleaner and a brush on some parts, and probably carb cleaner and compressed air to make sure all the air and fuel passages aren't blocked. Wouldn't hurt to spray some de-greaser on the carb parts and let them sit a while before dropping them in the ultrasonic cleaner. Any kind of acid? No way for this guy.

This is a long one made for rifle cleaning that I borrowed from a guy.

That is quite the setup. I guess a guy could make something like that out of an old crock pot or roaster. You see those quite a bit at garage sales around here. They wouldn't have the ultrasonic capabilities but would provide the heat. I will keep my eyes out for something.

I have used different acids over the years. I used to use Nitric acid to etch brass and create designs in it. I covered the brass with bees wax and drew the design in the wax with different tools then dipped the brass into the acid and it would etch the design into the brass.

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

There is an organic acid, called tri-cresyl-phosphate, aka TCP, which was the detergent in SHELL gasoline, as opposed to ethylene chloride or ethylene bromide which other fuel providers used to clean the lead from tetraethyl lead off the valves. It is what left all the crusty yellow deposits on spark plugs, back in the day. All this stuff is a Class B poison. The McKay carb cleaner uses TCP, which is the strongest organic acid.

TCP can't be too bad if mixed correctly...

"Tricalcium phosphate (abbreviation TCP) is a tricalcium salt of phosphoric acid with the chemical formula Ca3 (PO4)2. In food, it is used as an anticaking agent in powdered food and a nutritional supplement of calcium and phosphorus in infant formulae and cereals."

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

I have been doing experiments.

I will try this stuff you speak of.

Pine-Sol is my Favorite so far.

What does the Pine-Sol remove? Grease and oil or will it remove the carbon type deposits too.
.

[Getter-Done]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

What does the Pine-Sol remove? Grease and oil or will it remove the carbon type deposits too.
.

So far the pieces I have run in the USC have had grease oil dirt and light surface rust.

They came out looking great.

If the rust is pitted it will not totally remove that.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

So far the pieces I have run in the USC have had grease oil dirt and light surface rust.

They came out looking great.

If the rust is pitted it will not totally remove that.

OK, thanks.

[68Gold/white]

They don't put the good ingredients in the carb soak chenicals, anymore. The last time I used the "dip" cleaner, the throttle shaft wouldn't move after removing from the dip.

What I do now:
Soak the entire carb in a bucket of gasoline. I usually wait at least a couple of days.
Then I use the spray carb cleaner (Berryman's, usually). I use small brushes, where needed. I use the straw to inject the spray into passages, then blow them out with compressed air.

If there's any corrosion (white powder looking like stuff), I use the Lysol toilet bowl cleaner (the type you apply under the toilet rim). GREAT CAUTION needs to be used when using this stuff in a carb. I pour it in the bowl and only let it set for 1-15 minutes, then rinse it out with hot water. The cleaner will eat away the corrosion, but will also start eating into the carb metal!!! If you don't leave it in the carb long enough to do the job, a second application may be needed.
When done, I thoroughly spray the part with spray carb cleaner.....

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

They don't put the good ingredients in the carb soak chenicals, anymore. The last time I used the "dip" cleaner, the throttle shaft wouldn't move after removing from the dip.

What I do now:
Soak the entire carb in a bucket of gasoline. I usually wait at least a couple of days.
Then I use the spray carb cleaner (Berryman's, usually). I use small brushes, where needed. I use the straw to inject the spray into passages, then blow them out with compressed air.

If there's any corrosion (white powder looking like stuff), I use the Lysol toilet bowl cleaner (the type you apply under the toilet rim). GREAT CAUTION needs to be used when using this stuff in a carb. I pour it in the bowl and only let it set for 1-15 minutes, then rinse it out with hot water. The cleaner will eat away the corrosion, but will also start eating into the carb metal!!! If you don't leave it in the carb long enough to do the job, a second application may be needed.
When done, I thoroughly spray the part with spray carb cleaner.....

Thanks for the tip.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

That is quite the setup. I guess a guy could make something like that out of an old crock pot or roaster. You see those quite a bit at garage sales around here. They wouldn't have the ultrasonic capabilities but would provide the heat. I will keep my eyes out for something.

I have used different acids over the years. I used to use Nitric acid to etch brass and create designs in it. I covered the brass with bees wax and drew the design in the wax with different tools then dipped the brass into the acid and it would etch the design into the brass.



TCP can't be too bad if mixed correctly...

"Tricalcium phosphate (abbreviation TCP) is a tricalcium salt of phosphoric acid with the chemical formula Ca3 (PO4)2. In food, it is used as an anticaking agent in powdered food and a nutritional supplement of calcium and phosphorus in infant formulae and cereals."



What does the Pine-Sol remove? Grease and oil or will it remove the carbon type deposits too.
.

Not tri-calcium phosphate, tri-cresyl phosphate. Two totally different animals.