Gauge Mounting Advice/Ideas

[EagleChief]

OK. So... after my engine swap, none of my gauges work. Well, I take that back... they didn't work before the swap. My fuel gauge works, but nothing else. I have one of the 3 gauge pods under the dash for my temp/oil pressure/volts.

I purchased an inexpensive gauge kit from Amazon with a GPS speedometer to retrofit into the dash. My issue is, although the gauges fit into the dash locations just fine, they do not have anything on the back side of the dash to help mount them. They have this screw-on back that is supposed to hold the gauge to a mounting point if that makes sense. I need a backing of some sort to place behind the black/silver dash face that I could sandwich between the dash face and gauges, then use the screw on backing to snug up to the material that I use as a backing.

One thought that I have is: Use one of my old dashboards to mount everything to. I have a full intact gauge set, with the acrylic/clear face plate that still has all of the numbers and markings on it. My first thought is that clear face plate would be the perfect piece to use. Cut out the area where the stock gauges go and mount the new gauges in place.

Is it sacreligious to cut up a dash like that? I know there are people out there looking for dashboards/gauges/etc. But... it would work for my set up. I'm not going to go out and immediately destroy this thing, but I'd like some other ideas of what I could use. I'll try and link the gauge package that I bought so you can have an idea of what they look like. I don't feel like I explained my thoughts very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4DD23WX...sin_title&th=1

[Richard]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

OK. So... after my engine swap, none of my gauges work. Well, I take that back... they didn't work before the swap. My fuel gauge works, but nothing else. I have one of the 3 gauge pods under the dash for my temp/oil pressure/volts.

I purchased an inexpensive gauge kit from Amazon with a GPS speedometer to retrofit into the dash. My issue is, although the gauges fit into the dash locations just fine, they do not have anything on the back side of the dash to help mount them. They have this screw-on back that is supposed to hold the gauge to a mounting point if that makes sense. I need a backing of some sort to place behind the black/silver dash face that I could sandwich between the dash face and gauges, then use the screw on backing to snug up to the material that I use as a backing.

One thought that I have is: Use one of my old dashboards to mount everything to. I have a full intact gauge set, with the acrylic/clear face plate that still has all of the numbers and markings on it. My first thought is that clear face plate would be the perfect piece to use. Cut out the area where the stock gauges go and mount the new gauges in place.

Is it sacreligious to cut up a dash like that? I know there are people out there looking for dashboards/gauges/etc. But... it would work for my set up. I'm not going to go out and immediately destroy this thing, but I'd like some other ideas of what I could use. I'll try and link the gauge package that I bought so you can have an idea of what they look like. I don't feel like I explained my thoughts very well.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0D4DD23WX...sin_title&th=1

A quick search turned up this blank bezel. https://www.classicindustries.com/pr.../37670001.html Just the first one that came up. Probably more out there.

[franken]

You might want to take a minute and think about making the stock gauges work one at a time.
Oil: It's mechanical so it will probably work.
Battery: It needs two voltage sources.
Temp: If the engine isn't original, getting the right sender could be an issue.
Speedo: Typically runs off the trans.
Gas: New sender.

Or, used nongauge clusters might be had from one of the guys who part trucks. Then you can drill and mount aftermarket gauges cleanly.

[Rust_never_sleeps]

If your ammeter doesn't show charging/discharging when you think it should, check the two mini fuses in the front corners of the engine bay

[EagleChief]

A blank bezel could be an option, although I don't want to spend $200 on one. I have 2 factory bezels and one full set gauge cluster, so I was hoping to make one of them work.

[mrein3]

Originally Posted by EagleChief

A blank bezel could be an option, although I don't want to spend $200 on one. I have 2 factory bezels and one full set gauge cluster, so I was hoping to make one of them work.

Two things.
The way you say "I have two factory bezels, and one full set gauge cluster" makes me wonder if you had the idiot light configuration prior to the engine swap. If so, it isn't plug and play for full gauges. You need to move some wires around in the connector. Search this site for how-to.

My second point is, what engine did you put in? When I built my 383 it was still an old school flat tappet cam small block. Same temp sensor in the head. Gauge works fine. We can discuss using a flat tappet engine for anything at this point in life some other time. But I do know if you did say a vortec 350, that temp sensor won't work with our 67-72 gauge.

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by mrein3

Two things.
The way you say "I have two factory bezels, and one full set gauge cluster" makes me wonder if you had the idiot light configuration prior to the engine swap. If so, it isn't plug and play for full gauges. You need to move some wires around in the connector. Search this site for how-to.

My second point is, what engine did you put in? When I built my 383 it was still an old school flat tappet cam small block. Same temp sensor in the head. Gauge works fine. We can discuss using a flat tappet engine for anything at this point in life some other time. But I do know if you did say a vortec 350, that temp sensor won't work with our 67-72 gauge.

That would probably clear things up, huh? And, it's going to change all of the answers, I'm sure. We ended up putting an LS engine and transmission from a 2005 Tahoe in it. That's why I purchased the gauges I did. I'm sorry I didn't put that in the original post.

[MARKDTN]

Don't take this the wrong way but underdash gauge pods in a truck with a gauge dash are a huge turn off to me. When I see that I see no pride of ownership. So I am strongly in the "fix what ya got" camp. If you have a high amp alternator you may consider swapping from ammeter to voltmeter. There are threads on using a square body voltmeter.

And yes, gauge dash wiring is different from warning light wiring on all GM vehicles. Mid 80s bought a cluster with a tach for a friends '79 Cutlass and just stuck it in only changing the oil and temp sending units. It fried the tach.

[biketopia]

A used glove box door from a parts truck can be had cheaply; it fits the space (with a little trimming for the column), and then you have a blank canvas to mount your gauges in once you drill the appropriately sized holes.

[LS short box]

So on my 68 C10 LS6 swap I used a stock 68 C10 bezel but with some mods. I used 5" Autometer speedo and tach. 2" for the volt, oil pressure, fuel and temp.
Modded the stock bezel by adding a 18 gauges panel with new holes. Sprayed it with body under coat to get the black wrinkle finish.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by LS short box

So on my 68 C10 LS6 swap I used a stock 68 C10 bezel but with some mods. I used 5" Autometer speedo and tach. 2" for the volt, oil pressure, fuel and temp.
Modded the stock bezel by adding a 18 gauges panel with new holes. Sprayed it with body under coat to get the black wrinkle finish.

One of my younger brothers put a 200 mph speedo in his '60 Chevy Parkwood station wagon. I guarantee that it never went that fast, even with that NASCAR knockoff 355. I want to see your speedo at 160.

FWIW, if I ever replaced the speedo in my truck and did a whole dash, I'd find a speedo from back when they only went to 85 mph.

[70STOVEBOLT]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Don't take this the wrong way but underdash gauge pods in a truck with a gauge dash are a huge turn off to me. When I see that I see no pride of ownership. So I am strongly in the "fix what ya got" camp. If you have a high amp alternator you may consider swapping from ammeter to voltmeter. There are threads on using a square body voltmeter.

And yes, gauge dash wiring is different from warning light wiring on all GM vehicles. Mid 80s bought a cluster with a tach for a friends '79 Cutlass and just stuck it in only changing the oil and temp sending units. It fried the tach.

To each his own. Those gauges look right in some trucks, like Day 2 builds.

[LS short box]

Yeah I think my 68 wouldn't do 200 mph. Our trucks have the aero of a brick. In regards to the bezel I tapped the stock screw holes for 10-24 bolts and then filled the holes so no exposed screw holes in the bezel. Then used flange nuts from the back side of the dash to hold it in place.
The center gauge I modded a 2" gauge to hold the turn signal, high beam and check engine lights.
Used the same gauges for my 80 Camaro LS3 swap. I'm guessing it will be a bit faster. Better aero.

[Rufas]

I'm old school, I like analog gauges like these. I took my old idiot light instrument cluster, trimmed out most everything. I then used this stainless steel panel, glued that panel to the cutout instrument cluster. With that stainless steel panel the gauges had their 'U' shaped mounting brackets that came with the Autometer gauges.

I did this about 25 years ago when there was not much to choose from for aftermarket gauges for these truck. I was even able to Autometer to do custom labels for some of my gauges - all American made!

['68OrangeSunshine]

Originally Posted by Rufas

I'm old school, I like analog gauges like these. I took my old idiot light instrument cluster, trimmed out most everything. I then used this stainless steel panel, glued that panel to the cutout instrument cluster. With that stainless steel panel the gauges had their 'U' shaped mounting brackets that came with the Autometer gauges.

I did this about 25 years ago when there was not much to choose from for aftermarket gauges for these truck. I was even able to Autometer to do custom labels for some of my gauges - all American made!

Rufus: I like that jeweled dash!

[EagleChief]

Originally Posted by MARKDTN

Don't take this the wrong way but underdash gauge pods in a truck with a gauge dash are a huge turn off to me. When I see that I see no pride of ownership. So I am strongly in the "fix what ya got" camp. If you have a high amp alternator you may consider swapping from ammeter to voltmeter. There are threads on using a square body voltmeter.

And yes, gauge dash wiring is different from warning light wiring on all GM vehicles. Mid 80s bought a cluster with a tach for a friends '79 Cutlass and just stuck it in only changing the oil and temp sending units. It fried the tach.

No offense taken, and I kind of agree with you. But, I needed a quick fix for the temperature, and so an underdash gauge was what I had available. That's now, what I'm trying to get rid of and put new gauges in the dash.

[Sheepdip]

Originally Posted by franken

Temp: If the engine isn't original, getting the right sender could be an issue.
.

600 ohms at 100°F, 83 ohms at 220°F..

[MARKDTN]

Originally Posted by 70STOVEBOLT

To each his own. Those gauges look right in some trucks, like Day 2 builds.

Just to clarify, while I don't personally care for the full on different gauges I do appreciate the effort. What I don't like is a gauge dash with aftermarket gauges below. Makes me wonder why they didn't just fix what they had. IMHO the gauge dash is one of the most iconic features of a 67-72. My .02.

But I understand what the OP is after now.

And I agree, to each his own.

[Steeveedee]

I temporarily mounted a temp gauge below the dash because the factory one was getting flaky. Now, I have arthritis bad enough that that is the way it will stay.