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Old 10-23-2006, 05:33 PM   #1
underdog8704
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Leak is driving me nuts!

I have a fresh 383 stroker in my 71 C/10. It has an Edelbrock performer intake that wont stop leaking around the back. The intake was on the motor when I bought the truck(and it leaked then) We have had it off and resealed it numerous times with grey RTV sealer with no success. Has anyone had this problem or something similar and found out how to fix it? Thanks for the input.
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:41 PM   #2
67ChevyRedneck
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

It might have a hairline crack that you can't see.
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Old 10-23-2006, 05:45 PM   #3
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

I agree I had a performer rpm do the same thing they are aluminum and wear after a while. Save yourself the trouble and go buy a new one.
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:26 PM   #4
70c10
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Don't feel bad, My RPM intake has been leaking around the center bolts and I can't get them to seal no matter what I try. My intake looks nasty because of it!
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1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames
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10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall
Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1
Performer RPM Air-Gap
12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi
Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads
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Old 10-23-2006, 06:32 PM   #5
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

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Originally Posted by 70c10 View Post
Don't feel bad, My RPM intake has been leaking around the center bolts and I can't get them to seal no matter what I try. My intake looks nasty because of it!
well if you take the bolts oput clean them with thinner and seal them (NOT SILICONE)with thread sealant like you shoud've on day one they probabally won't leak
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:05 PM   #6
stacerbob
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Could it be the distributor??
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Old 10-23-2006, 07:16 PM   #7
underdog8704
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

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Could it be the distributor??
i was told it could be the distributor. tomorrow i plan on cleaning it up real good again, and watching it while its running, just to get an idea of its exact location. thanks for all the help guys, keep em coming.
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Old 10-23-2006, 10:37 PM   #8
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Make sure you've got the round gasket beneath the distributor base. In addition, are you using a PCV valve ? If you are running an engine that has some wear and creates positive internal pressure, the absence of a vent ( positive crankcase ventiliation PCV valve ) will cause the engine to leak at it's weakest point. Usually around the manifold or oil pan. JMHO, Dean
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:04 PM   #9
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

I was having the same problem until I quit using the RTV sealant. A guy gave me a tube of sealant and told me if I used it instead of the RTV I wouldn't have any more problems. He was right. I can't remember the name of it but I will look in the morning and post it.

Same thing with the water neck.

LockDoc
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Last edited by LockDoc; 10-23-2006 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 10-23-2006, 11:18 PM   #10
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

back there is stock location for oil pressure sender or tubes. Make sure that is not the culprit
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:59 AM   #11
70c10
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by cdowns View Post
well if you take the bolts oput clean them with thinner and seal them (NOT SILICONE)with thread sealant like you shoud've on day one they probabally won't leak
They were sealed that way when the cam was installed but started leaking a year later. I even tried brand new intake bolts and coated them with the white liquid teflon thread sealant but it won't stop it. It's the 4 center bolts.
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1970 C/10 Fleetside w/Ghost Flames
Lowered 4.5" front and 4" rear (Raked)
355/350 Turbo w/shift kit
10" Redneck Performance Verter w/2500 stall
Hooker Super Comps part#2808-1
Performer RPM Air-Gap
12 Bolt w/3:73 gears- Eaton Posi
Comp Cams XE262 with 1.6 Crane Energizers, Road Demon 625 and Brodix IK 180 heads
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:40 AM   #12
cdowns
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

try bead blasting the bolts(thread area) / it sometimes give the thread sealant a better grip on the surface also a little shot of brake cleaner into the holes to clean b-4 inserting bolts and letting thread sealer set up 15-20 minutes b-4 inserting bolts
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MEANING OF DEATH::::: SOMEBODY ELSE GETS YOUR STUFF

DONT BELIEVE EVERYTHING YOU THINK

TAKE MY ADVISE;I DON'T USE IT ANYWAY
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Old 10-24-2006, 02:02 PM   #13
underdog8704
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RSRXION View Post
In addition, are you using a PCV valve ? If you are running an engine that has some wear and creates positive internal pressure, the absence of a vent ( positive crankcase ventiliation PCV valve ) will cause the engine to leak at it's weakest point. Usually around the manifold or oil pan. JMHO, Dean
ya, i am already running a pcv valve. thanks again guys for all the input.
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Old 10-24-2006, 02:08 PM   #14
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Quote:
Originally Posted by LockDoc View Post
I was having the same problem until I quit using the RTV sealant. A guy gave me a tube of sealant and told me if I used it instead of the RTV I wouldn't have any more problems. He was right. I can't remember the name of it but I will look in the morning and post it.

Same thing with the water neck.

LockDoc
The sealer he gave me to use is Locktite #2 Gasket Sealer

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Old 10-24-2006, 03:41 PM   #15
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

Ultra copper gasket sealer/maker, it is the best stuff made. Put a line front and rear, make sure to push it inthe the corners where the head meets the block. Set the intake down tighten the bolts, wait overnight and no leaky!! Be sure to clean the rails so it sticks the intake as well. It dries pliable but tough as nails and hold up to extreme heat. Its the only thing I use. It'll fix the four leaking bolts as well, but I think it might be a gasket issue, some intakes require a specific gasket to cover everything up and to not get any leaks.
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:43 PM   #16
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Re: Leak is driving me nuts!

The Right Stuff.
You use this stuff, and you'll sooner scrape the alluminum off the sealant instead of the sealant off the alluminum. Use that and make sure you get a bead thick enough and it will seal
make sure all surfaces are clean. scrape the old stuff off with a razor blade and follow with brake clean, place the intake down straight... once it touches, it better be straight, move it fore or aft, and it'll probably leak.
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