67 won't start....

[soba_03]

Sounds to me like you have 2 problems. First it won't crank until you wrap on the started is a starter selnoid or sounds like one.

Second it sounds like you may have either got some bad gas or sucked in some crap from the bottom of your tank. Most likely the case is crap from the tank.

I would go and pull the filter on the carb and blow it out on a shop towel and see if it was plugged.

Then I would pull the starter and have it checked. Replace is is and option too. But sounds like when it ran out of gas you got a carb full of crap and then trying to start it you found the starter selnoid problem.

Glad you got it fixed. Congrats....

[ed2552]

I put a new filter in the carb and a see through filter b4 that and some seafoam in the tank, and the beast has never run better, no hesitation, just power. Idk about the starter, but it works fine now. It has a really rough idle, like a dragster, and i think it is the timing, but it runs fine for now.

[berencam]

Make sure not to use the glass see through filters, they leak bad and will cause a fire.

[ed2552]

It is plastic, and i dropped it and it is ok so far, and it is nice being able to see what is going into my motor, and seafoam is helping clean out the carb and everything. Hopefully my dad will help me get the timing right. The thing i'm most proud of is that i did all of the work by myself. I did get help from you guys and my dad, but all of the labor was done by me, and usually my dad does it all and i hand him tools and hold things for him to bolt on. That is a big accomplisment for me.

[stonewall618]

Originally Posted by ed2552

The beast runs! Why is it that i bashed on the starter with a ball peen hammer and it suddenly works? is it the windings or just the force puts something back into alignment?
When i drove it around the yard, when i gunned it it sputtered and backfired and didn't want to go, is that a clogged filter? Should i install a clear filter in the rubber line b4 the pump, that would be easier than cutting and flaring the hard line to the carb.

what did i say!! im good...

[straitnate14]

Thats how I was on timming my motor before I had the blower on my engine. But I had the dizzy off and on so much that I had to learn how to set the timming. Realy easy once you do it once just make sure you take pics with the cap off to see where the rotors at and where your vacum advance is pointing, and you realy dont have to mess with timming it that much. It's a good feeling not relying on someone to help every time you mess with stuff

[ed2552]

Definitely a good feeling, but my dad said there should be a pointer and marks on the balancer, but there are not. What is the deal there? We can't time it w/ a light because of that. Help!

[ed2552]

Originally Posted by stonewall618

what did i say!! im good...

Stonewall618, you are good, but that is what my dad and hired hand told me too, so don't get too cocky, but you were right. The fuel filter(s) and seafoam also helped, so now it runs better than i have ever experienced it. Does anyone know where to get rear brake lines and a full brake rebuild kit (all 4 drums, shoes, etc. and parking brake assemblies/parts) for a 67 K10 with a Dana 44 & 12 bolt?

[stonewall618]

Originally Posted by ed2552

Stonewall618, you are good, but that is what my dad and hired hand told me too, so don't get too cocky, but you were right. The fuel filter(s) and seafoam also helped, so now it runs better than i have ever experienced it. Does anyone know where to get rear brake lines and a full brake rebuild kit (all 4 drums, shoes, etc. and parking brake assemblies/parts) for a 67 K10 with a Dana 44 & 12 bolt?

i was just passing on info that i was taught... i had the same problem... hit it really hard and it started working...gears got stuck... not long after i had to replace because the were all messed up... and i understand doing it on your own... its a great feeling

[straitnate14]

get some emry paper and try to clean any dirt an old paint that might be on it and then try to get some paint to try and find if your marks are just covered up

[ed2552]

Ok, we have some, i just never thought about it, thx

[ed2552]

What color paint would be best? does it have to be high heat?

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by ed2552

The beast runs! Why is it that i bashed on the starter with a ball peen hammer and it suddenly works? is it the windings or just the force puts something back into alignment?
When i drove it around the yard, when i gunned it it sputtered and backfired and didn't want to go, is that a clogged filter? Should i install a clear filter in the rubber line b4 the pump, that would be easier than cutting and flaring the hard line to the carb.

The brushes could have been sticking a bit & and the whack with the "universal adjusting tool" could have jarred them loose.

I can't urge this enough. DO NOT us a clear plastic or glass inline filter.
That is nothing short of a disaster waiting to happen. Use a steel filter. They really aren't all that expensive.
All you need to do is get your truck running & then burn it to the ground. I can just about guarantee ya, that would ruin your whole day.

I personally, have put inline filters between the fuel pump & the carburetor on a couple of vehicles, truck & cars.
I just cut out enough length of the steel line to fit the filter & the rubber hoses in the gap.
I did put a slight flare on the open ends of the steel lines to serve as a barb. But i haven't really convinced myself that it was necessary.

Just my .02.

[ed2552]

That advice is about 10 bucks and 8 hours too late. I took some worm clamps and got them as tight as i could, and they are holding fine now, and it is good quality plastic w/ barbs at the end and good quality clamps, so i think it should be good enough for driving around the yard, for now, but when i get her driving i will prolly put new fuel lines on it, just for added peace of mind, and i will add a good quality filter and maybe a different carb, but that is after i get it to stop and turn decent.

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by ed2552

That advice is about 10 bucks and 8 hours too late. I took some worm clamps and got them as tight as i could, and they are holding fine now, and it is good quality plastic w/ barbs at the end and good quality clamps, so i think it should be good enough for driving around the yard, for now, but when i get her driving i will prolly put new fuel lines on it, just for added peace of mind, and i will add a good quality filter and maybe a different carb, but that is after i get it to stop and turn decent.

Well, I tossed out the best I had at the time.
On a personal note, a "good quality" plastic inline filter won't last if it's positioned anywhere near a hot exhaust.
Good quality plastic filter+hot exhaust=truck to the wrecking yard.
Good plastic filter, banging around on the frame+any source of ignition=truck to the wrecking yard.

[berencam]

el-jays right its probably one of the best things to buy for your truck other than a subscription to this site. My inline glass one worked great for about a month, then from the expanding and contracting from getting hot it just started leaking, the only thing you could do if you just insist on using the clear ones is put it between the tank and fuel pump under the engine on the frame somewhere. but even then its still risky.

[El Jay]

Originally Posted by berencam

el-jays right its probably one of the best things to buy for your truck other than a subscription to this site. My inline glass one worked great for about a month, then from the expanding and contracting from getting hot it just started leaking, the only thing you could do if you just insist on using the clear ones is put it between the tank and fuel pump under the engine on the frame somewhere. but even then its still risky.

Thank you.
I would hate to see a member, or anybody else, for that matter, lose a truck because he/she was able to save a whopping $2.00 on a plastic vs. steel fuel filter.

[ed2552]

ok, well i have it right next to the carb, and it is tight against the intake, and that truck will not go more than a mile at a time, so i'm ok for now

[soba_03]

Ed,

You may have already done this. But while your trying to get this back up to top performance. Spend the 2 bucks and replace the rubber fuel line where the hard line from the tank connects to the hard line to the engine. it's 5/16 line and although it may not be leaking or deteriorating might be sucking some air that may cause it not to pun perfectly. Just a thought. I know that mine slowly went away. Came out of work one night to OH well about 5 gallon puddle on the ground under my truck. Beauty of that whole lesson was it was -6 that morning and I laid on the ground and well replaced the line. Not the best timming and it was something that I had thought about, but put off till a different time...

Glad it's back to running condition.

[ed2552]

Yep, so am i. We replaced the pump about a year ago, and it looked pretty good, and it doesn't leak, so i will focus on what NEEDS to be fixed b4 worrying about a minor thing like that that works for now, but thanks for the info.