LSx Header options

[85burb]

Pacesetter does not have any....dang it!!

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

Pacesetter does not have any....dang it!!

Why not take a set of Pacesetter long tube headers designed for a 99-up LS engined truck and modify them to fit our truck. Can't be too far off.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PSM-70-2265/

What about asking Pacesetter to make a set specifically for our trucks in both gen-1 small block, big block and LS transplant varieties? Couldn't hurt to ask.

[85burb]

I dont have the tools or time to do that. Wish i did. Am trying to find direct drop in. If i cant i will just use stock manifolds tell i can get a set and make them work.

[SatisTraction]

i put a set of hooker 67-69 camaro swap headers on my 85. the drivers side took a litttle grinding on the motor mount. about 5 minutes of work.

On the passenger side i had moved the mount for the "fred" mod and had to do a little more work over there. i cut about 1/2" off the top of the frame and did some grinding on the mount. I think the mount could be moved forward and do little to no grinding.

[85burb]

Originally Posted by SatisTraction

i put a set of hooker 67-69 camaro swap headers on my 85. the drivers side took a litttle grinding on the motor mount. about 5 minutes of work.

On the passenger side i had moved the mount for the "fred" mod and had to do a little more work over there. i cut about 1/2" off the top of the frame and did some grinding on the mount. I think the mount could be moved forward and do little to no grinding.

Any pics. What mounts did you use?

[SatisTraction]

i can try to get some. i used carshop plates.

it WAS NOT a bolt in but it was not too much work and i did not have to modify the headers.

[85burb]

May have found a set of long tubes that will work. They are for 98-02 camaro. A little bit of frame trimming is need but not too much. Best of all they are 170 a set.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

May have found a set of long tubes that will work. They are for 98-02 camaro. A little bit of frame trimming is need but not too much. Best of all they are 170 a set.

Got a link to where you found those?

[85burb]

The truck that i got idea from
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=411567
The company i may get mine from.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...Q5fAccessories

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by 85burb

The truck that i got idea from
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=411567
The company i may get mine from.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/98-02...Q5fAccessories

I don't care where they are made, that is an amazing deal on a set of 1-3/4" tube stainless long tube headers. Looks like they have 3/8" thick flanges too. I am going to have to give them a try.

Thanks for the links.

[MONTEZ]

My bet would be that the flanges are not made of the same material as the tubing. If this is the case, those tig welds will start cracking in about a year. Been down that road on my DSM before. I figured hey it's cheap and I bet it's pretty much the same. WRONG, one year and 13 weld fixes later I decided to break down and by a more expensive one. Replaced it with a DNP tubualr manifold, bout $700 for a four banger exhaust mani, never had anymore issues. But too, this was on a forced induction engine runninng 26 psi boost.

[68 TT]

Originally Posted by MONTEZ

My bet would be that the flanges are not made of the same material as the tubing. If this is the case, those tig welds will start cracking in about a year. Been down that road on my DSM before. I figured hey it's cheap and I bet it's pretty much the same. WRONG, one year and 13 weld fixes later I decided to break down and by a more expensive one. Replaced it with a DNP tubualr manifold, bout $700 for a four banger exhaust mani, never had anymore issues. But too, this was on a forced induction engine runninng 26 psi boost.

I had the same problem with the factory headers on my 86 Grand National. I welded those pigs back together at least a dozen times before I broke down and built my own out of heavy wall tubing with thicker flanges.

Thin wall stainless tubing and the heat of forced induction do not mix well. I worked on fighter aircraft for 13 years and had to fix countless heat stress cracks in stainless.

It just needs to be thicker in high heat areas like a turbo header. Using schedule-40 stainless pipe instead is the way to go. For a naturally aspirated engine the heat load (if it is jetted right) is far less and will most likely never make the headers hot enough to damage the welds.

The flanges look to be stainless at least and 304 is one of the least expensive ones to use so I would bet they used the same 304 on the flanges. You can weld mild steel to stainless but the flanges are too shiny to be mild steel. You can polish it up but it doesn't look the same as stainless.

[MONTEZ]

Originally Posted by 68 TT

I had the same problem with the factory headers on my 86 Grand National. I welded those pigs back together at least a dozen times before I broke down and built my own out of heavy wall tubing with thicker flanges.

Thin wall stainless tubing and the heat of forced induction do not mix well. I worked on fighter aircraft for 13 years and had to fix countless heat stress cracks in stainless.

It just needs to be thicker in high heat areas like a turbo header. Using schedule-40 stainless pipe instead is the way to go. For a naturally aspirated engine the heat load (if it is jetted right) is far less and will most likely never make the headers hot enough to damage the welds.

The flanges look to be stainless at least and 304 is one of the least expensive ones to use so I would bet they used the same 304 on the flanges. You can weld mild steel to stainless but the flanges are too shiny to be mild steel. You can polish it up but it doesn't look the same as stainless.

Hard to tell in the pictures. Mine was supposed to be all stainless according to the add, but they were stainless tubing on chrome plated mild steel.

[85burb]

We will deff find out. Maybe by the time they crack someone will have a swap header out.

[85burb]

Does any one know of any one that put out headers for 73-87 truck swap headers yet?

[85burb]

Got my headers in mail today. They look great for what i payed. The box was tore up from shipping and one of the collectors was a tiny bit bent like Fedex therw it down stairs. It is just barly noticeable. Will be welding a flange on them anyway so not a big deal at all. Deff hope they fit good cause they look great.

[Magnimike1]

well keep us informed

[silvereagle07]

They look nice. Let us know how they fit.

[68 TT]

Look pretty good for the money.

Hard to tell in the pics but it looks like that weld at the flange is discolored like it should be so the flanges are probably stainless like they said. You can't weld to chrome so if it was plated steel they would have had to plate over the welds to completely chrome plate the flanges. Doesn't look like they did that.

You might have to relocate that oxygen sensor fitting but that would be good as I don't think that position has a good enough angle to it so the moisture drains out of the sensor easily. Probably easier to leave that one there and put a new fitting where it works for the Suburban.

[STOCKISH]

Seems like alot of work when we all know the quality and fit of the S&P headers. Maybe we could do a group buy and get a discount? Just my opinion though.

[85burb]

I just cant see paying 600 bucks for some at best mid length headers. I will not have 02 sensors. Will be using a carb. I will inform yall on the fitment. For the money i am very happy. I will just be using them to see if they fit. If they do i will buy a good set after these fall apart.