Dropping the 1 ton!

[tc4x4]

So while i have the trucks front end all opened up, I'm thinking about just replacing it all. Ball joints, brakes, calipers, rotors, and brake lines. What after market parts are out there that would be a nice "improvement" over stock?

Also if i got some drop springs for this along with the spindles, where would be a good place to get them, i have heard LMC sucks, so would i just get new half ton drop springs? Or are there ones specifically for 1 tons?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

So while i have the trucks front end all opened up, I'm thinking about just replacing it all. Ball joints, brakes, calipers, rotors, and brake lines. What after market parts are out there that would be a nice "improvement" over stock?

Also if i got some drop springs for this along with the spindles, where would be a good place to get them, i have heard LMC sucks, so would i just get new half ton drop springs? Or are there ones specifically for 1 tons?

How did the truck drive before tearing it apart? Was there any difference in height between the L & R sides?

C20's & 30's typically came w/HD coils up front. If the truck isn't beat to crap, just re-use them. If you insist on replacing the coils, get HD coils regardless of the mfr you choose & see if they have C20/30 spec'd coils when you get your info.

As far as improving performance, the big sway bar w/poly bushings would be top priority. The best quality shock you can afford & the same for the tires. Dont settle for a 'stock' alignment either.... go to someone that understands you want the most out of your combination.

[tc4x4]

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by tc4x4

I think my last post was not clear, i have not torn into the truck yet, I'm just making a list of things I will need for when I start the project. Trying to get my ducks in a row you could say!

The truck rides great right now, It has really been taken care of by the original owner. I'm probably just going to keep the stock springs on and cut them.

As far as your last comment on a "stock" alignment, could you expand about what I would want to look out for. I'm assuming the truck will need an alignment when I am done with the drop?

Many 'generic' repair shops (Sears, Firestone, Goodyear,....) do alignments strictly by the book. If the book (well, computer now ) tells them it has to have +.5 camber, +3° caster, & +.125 toe, that's the only settings they'll go with.

An independent shop (or any shop that has a gearhead running the alignment equipment) knows the specs are just a reference point & that other settings can/do sometimes work better depending on the objective. I personally target about .5 ~.75 negative camber, as much caster as possible, & as little toe as possible.

As with anything, if a guy chooses to utilize different settings vs. what's spec'd, it will be @ his own risk & therefore he can't really expect standard warranty or pricing. That being said, I've only had 1 issue where the toe wasn't set to ideal & it did eat up a set of tires faster than I wanted. I had it re-checked (@ an addiditional expense to me) & corrected since everything else was still @ the same settings.

For more in depth info on 'alternative' alignment philosophies read this thread. This is the type of guy you want to find to do the alignment!
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=487363

[tc4x4]

I called over to No Limit and they have a 1'' 1/4 sway bar kit with poly bushings. Its $189. That is the beefiest they have. Seems like a reasonable price.

[kitsbeach]

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion and a 6/8 drop to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

Couple pics to show the starting point.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

How much space between the pumpkin and the bed once done.?

I've got a "heavy" 3/4 ton with the big rear differential.

I understand all the other bits...C-notch etc. I've lowered my '67 no probs.

I figure with a C-notch there'll be 2-3" between axle tube and the frame, which is fine for me.

But wondering if there'll be 2-3 from the pumpkin to the bed floor?

Planning 8-lug short bed conversion to be cheap and different. I know I can change over to half ton stuff if I need to.

My dually had similar spacial dimensions @ the axle/frame rail & differental/floor. As you noted, the c-sections help @ the frame rail but you still lose clearance @ the differential/floor.