For Gramps (1970 C20 RestoMod)

[MAC71]

Where in did you get the sand blasting done? I am close to that point on my truck and live in Salt Lake City.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by TheRegulator

dang, I am busy and just skimmed some pages but nice work, I am envious! Im looking forward to the day I can actually get mine torn down, I will most likely need all new parts though, mine is so rusted its scary.

but for you and those that have already done restos, I was thinking instead of rivets, would it be an idea to use a nut and bolt combo in case anything needed removed for any reason?

Most of us on here feel that removing a cross member or two is OK in a restoration, but there are some who have replaced every crossmember with bolts.

In my opinion, I only removed the rear crossmember because it was cut through for my Gramps' hitch and the rear sus xmember because it wasn't clean enough in all the nooks for me to feel comfortable to paint.

And do the frame off resto! Develop an accurate savings plan and build plan, then get to it!

Originally Posted by MAC71

Where in did you get the sand blasting done? I am close to that point on my truck and live in Salt Lake City.

Mac, glad to meet another Utah member! I live in WVC and the place I used was Wasatch Abrasive, roughly California Ave and 32nd west. Here is their web address:

http://www.wasatchabrasiveblasting.com

The frame, control arms, steer components, rear end, and a few odds and ends (maybe 3 pieces) came to about $230. I was able to pick up the parts the same day (I dropped them off at 8AM, right when they opened).

Owner's name is JR and the forklift operator who helps get your gear out and gets you on the schedule is Antonio, both are really good guys.

[Jahloha]

Found these H2 wheels on KSL (Utah's version of Craigslist) and got them for $320! I was pumped.

Another cool factoid was that the seller works for TeraFlex (http://www.teraflex.biz), one of the biggest Jeep axle and build companies. We talked for about an hour and became good friends, he is one of their chief engineers and is going to help me with my 14-bolt build up.

Either way, its always nice to meet good people and have fair exchanges on the open market.

[mjensen]

Great score on the wheels, and meeting an axle guru

Now, git'r'dun

[Jahloha]

I finished painting my frame! After looking back at how long it took me to decide how and what I would use to paint my frame, I finally decided that ITS JUST A FRAME!

I cared so much about how it looked and stressed over it, but I finally realized that all I cared about was having the right combination of paints to ensure rust wouldn't creep onto the truck after everything was put back to together. Once I realized this, it made painting the frame less stressful and was able to pound it out.

MasterSeries Review:

I decided to go with MasterSeries paints (http://www.masterseriesct.com/home.html). I used their silver and AG111 products. I did two coats of silver primer and used just over 1.5 quarts and did one coat of the AG111 topcoat, which I stretched one quart to do the job.

The topcoat went on very smoothly and flowed nicely for a really slick finish. I went with a stain finish, it looks high gloss now and am hoping it looses some sheen as it cures.

What Ive learned looking back:

- Just get your frame sandblasted, it SO worth it
- Decided on a paint and just paint it, no one will ever see (of course if you are building a show car the standards are different. Mine will be a weekend warrior type of deal)
- Dont forget to have fun! Every decision on these trucks for a new build can be so stressful, dont fall into the trap haha.

Here are some pics of the final painting of my frame

[Jahloha]

FYI. I used a paint brush for every coat of paint.

After 2 coats of MasterSeries silver primer




Finished product!

[MAC71]

Looks really good! I was thinking about using Summit racing frame paint, it does not use a primer and goes on bare mettle. I stopped by the place that you had your sandblasting done and no one was in the office, found some one in a area up front and he just told me to look around in the back. Looked but did not see any one and since it was during work I did not have time to wait around. Talked to a place named Power Keg on I15 and they quoted $200.00 but that is just the frame.
Found a guy in Down Town that has hundreds of body parts for 50's, 60's, and 70's cars and trucks. He gave me a rust free radiator core support and I bought a high hump floor piece for $50.00. If your interested in his info I can find it and pass it on to you.
Headed to a junk yard in the morning looking for a door.