Crossmember question/shocks

[Tree-50]

Why does everyone just run the flat plate for the upper bracket up front? Why doesn't anyone make a step style one that would allow the bag to go up inside the crossmember for a few extra inches? Would it weaken the structure if you had to widen it a little bit? I don't care about losing the lift if that's why it's not done?


To the guys running the 1950s mercury shocks, what mercury model/year or part number? Are you using these INSTEAD OF or WITH a relocation kit?

Bags and tank will be here next week, already have valves and most of the electronics, just need a few elevel harnesses and i'm set! Getting excited.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tree-50

Why does everyone just run the flat plate for the upper bracket up front? Why doesn't anyone make a step style one that would allow the bag to go up inside the crossmember for a few extra inches? Would it weaken the structure if you had to widen it a little bit? I don't care about losing the lift if that's why it's not done?


To the guys running the 1950s mercury shocks, what mercury model/year or part number? Are you using these INSTEAD OF or WITH a relocation kit?

Bags and tank will be here next week, already have valves and most of the electronics, just need a few elevel harnesses and i'm set! Getting excited.

They run the flat upper plate vs alternatives because they're easy & available. Cutting a pocket into the x-member can be done but it takes fab work vs just drilling 4 holes & moving on to another part of the install.

[Tree-50]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

They run the flat upper plate vs alternatives because they're easy & available. Cutting a pocket into the x-member can be done but it takes fab work vs just drilling 4 holes & moving on to another part of the install.

Excellent, then that's what I plan on doing; widening it enough to drop it an extra 2-3" from fitting inside the upper spring mount hole.

[PGSigns]

With the flat plate and cupped lowers my cross member sits on the ground. The bags have plenty of room to completely reach there deflated height. No need to tuck them in the upper.
Jimmy

[Tree-50]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

With the flat plate and cupped lowers my cross member sits on the ground. The bags have plenty of room to completely reach there deflated height. No need to tuck them in the upper.
Jimmy

Do you have any pics, stance and of suspension? I only ask because I see tons of guys and while they're bagged they don't look any lower than a decent coil set up...like 5+" off the ground still.

I was going to ask what people are using for steering stops when they box/cup?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Tree-50

Do you have any pics, stance and of suspension? I only ask because I see tons of guys and while they're bagged they don't look any lower than a decent coil set up...like 5+" off the ground still. I was going to ask what people are using for steering stops when they box/cup?

The bags can get it lower but are likely @ a similar height vs a coil truck because that's what it needs to travel w/o hitting anything. The x-member (lower a-arm pivot points specifically) get real close to the pavement @ 6+" of front drop. Bags can also provide some lift if necessary (handy when it comes to rolling a jack under the front end vs a dropped coil set-up).

Where I see the benefit of changing the upper or lower mounting position (pocket heights) is that it could help put the bag @ its ideal pressure range @ ride height if the traditional plate method doesn't allow it.

[PGSigns]

My static dropped truck ride height and the bagged truck are about the same. Low enough to look good tall enough to get in and out of parking lots. They are both riding on stock front crossmembers. Any lower for a ride height and the control arms become an issue with hitting the ground. Last thing I want to do is tear a control arm off the truck with the roads we have around here. Also to go much lower with the stock subframe would start to get the tie rod angles higher than I would like and induce more bump steer. If I wanted to go lower then I would need to go to a sectioned front cross member or a setup like a drop member. This will get the suspension raised up in the truck to get good geometry and ground clearance.
Jimmy