93 chevy crank but won't start

[Robert252]

1993 chevy 4.3 2wd x cab.
Had a guy change the head & intake gaskets about 1500 miles ago.
my oil looked like chocolate milk. Last Monday got some gas and it would crank but would not start. I got it started finally and ran fine for a day and then sputtered to a stop on the way home. It took a while to start it but died numerous times on the ride home. I was told by the guy that changed the gaskets that the fuel injector regulator is stuck and that it happened to him when he was adjusting the rocker arms. He said he hit the TB with a hammer and everything went back to normal. I have hit the TB about a hundred times but still wont start. I can get it to shudder when I put the peddle to the floor but then it dies. It is getting fuel (TOO MUCH!) and it cranks really fast like the throttle is wide open. does anyone have an idea on what I can do to correct this problem? Help PLEASE

[ChevyTech]

Stop hitting the TBI with a hammer.
The guy that worked on your truck was a hack.
Hitting the TBI with a hammer is as dumb as putting dirt in the gas tank to slow down a leaky tank.

It sounds like it could be a bad coolant sensor.
The computer uses the coolant temp to determine how much fuel to inject and how fast the idle speed should be. It is common for these sensors to fail.

Got down to post #7 in this thread to get coolant sensor testing information.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=322811

[Robert252]

Ok, I stopped hitting it with a hammer.
I took the coolant sensor out and put my meter on 20k and it reads 3.5 at about 60 degrees. that's about what the temp is out side right now.
if I put the meter on 2k it won't read.
Like I said it won't start. I can get it to sputter if I hold the peddle to the floor but it won't run.
that's about 70,000 ohms? at that temp

[ChevyTech]

It all depends on how your meter displays readings.

If it is a digital meter, 3.5 may mean 3.5K which is 3500 ohms which is very close to what it should read.

It you are using an analog meter and it means 70,000 ohms, that would make the system dump in a lot of fuel.

Check and see, if you have someone turn the key on, without cranking the engine, if any fuel come out of the injectors. No fuel should come out.

[Robert252]

I heated up the sensor with some hot water and the resistance is changing as the temp changes. does this mean the sensor is good?
Could the idle control valve be the problem? I am going to clean it tomorrow. I read not to use carb cleaner on it and to be careful not to break it in one of the other threads .
Thanks for any help you can give.

[gsipes121704]

Have you checked your fuel pressure? I had the same thing happen on a Mustang I had years ago. Check the fuel pressure. Your fuel pump could be out.

[Robert252]

It is getting fuel

[gsipes121704]

Are the Injectors firing? Try putting a little gas down the TB to see if it starts, if so for some reason you aren't getting gas to the TB.

[Robert252]

If gas is getting into the TB I would think the injectors are working!? I am getting too much gas right now

[Robert252]

I changed the coolant sensor but it still wont start.
I pulled the plugs and two of them were wet with gas the others had black soot and dry as a bone. I don't know what to do next. I did clean the distributor and rotor.

[gsipes121704]

Have you done a compression check?

[gsipes121704]

Have you checked the fire at the plugs? IS it weak or strong? Could be a coil or control module if so. I believe Autozone can check the module if you bring it down.

[gsipes121704]

Weak fire will be yellow and strong will be blue

[ChevyTech]

Originally Posted by ChevyTech

... Check and see, if you have someone turn the key on, without cranking the engine, if any fuel comes out of the injectors. No fuel should come out.

Do this to make sure it does not have a leaking injector or a split o-ring.