Engine gets hot at idle

[Blessed66]

A radiator may be in your future. I'm not sure how hot it's getting in your neck of the woods (It's 93 degrees F as I'm posting this, in Texas), but typically the hotter it gets, the more problems related to inefficient cooling you'll experience.

Without knowing much about the length of your ownership, driving habits, and several other factors - I would guess that if you're just now seeing this problem, and the temperature is pretty warm, you might be doing well to invest in a radiator. It's your money, so please don't take this as a definitive answer because it's tough to troubleshoot across states, but if you're suspecting the radiator, it would probably be a good place to start.

My logic might be faulty, but it's like this; your radiator is the heat exchanger of the engine. Hot coolant gets cooled by the incoming air and helps to maintain operating temperature (along with everything else in the cooling system). If it's weak, or subpar, the hotter it is outside - the less effective it becomes. It sounds like you already think the radiator is the culprit, and if everything else seems to be working fine then you've probably found your answer.

Again, it's easy for me to spend your money for you, so just know I've been wrong before. My wife reminds me all the time.

[Dannyboy1966]

Originally Posted by Blessed66

A radiator may be in your future. I'm not sure how hot it's getting in your neck of the woods (It's 93 degrees F as I'm posting this, in Texas), but typically the hotter it gets, the more problems related to inefficient cooling you'll experience.

Without knowing much about the length of your ownership, driving habits, and several other factors - I would guess that if you're just now seeing this problem, and the temperature is pretty warm, you might be doing well to invest in a radiator. It's your money, so please don't take this as a definitive answer because it's tough to troubleshoot across states, but if you're suspecting the radiator, it would probably be a good place to start.

My logic might be faulty, but it's like this; your radiator is the heat exchanger of the engine. Hot coolant gets cooled by the incoming air and helps to maintain operating temperature (along with everything else in the cooling system). If it's weak, or subpar, the hotter it is outside - the less effective it becomes. It sounds like you already think the radiator is the culprit, and if everything else seems to be working fine then you've probably found your answer.

Again, it's easy for me to spend your money for you, so just know I've been wrong before. My wife reminds me all the time.

Yeah Blessed 66, it's been in the mid 90's here too (Kansas City Kansas), and rain, My god it's been like a steam sauna since we broke into the 90's. Don't worry about hurting my feelings telling me I might need a new radiator, I already have come to accept the idea, thats what I'm gonna need. Just I'm a tight a$$, and don't like spending money. LOL
Thank god I don't have the little wife anymore to remind me how stupid I am sometimes.. LOL

[tucsonjwt]

If you have a stock 350 engine a 2 core radiator should be enough. The last time I checked you can get one online (or locally) for about $120-$140. I gave up on having radiators rebuilt because new ones are relatively inexpensive. Also, you might get $35-$45 for your old radiator core (you should separate the brass/copper parts from any steel framework prior to taking it to the scrap yard.)

[Bigstevex4]

If its fine when moving its obviously an air flow issue. the proper way to check fan clutch is have some one shut eng off while your watching it it should stop spinning in a turn or so. you cant tell by spinning it by hand if its bad it will spin for a few seconds.

[Dannyboy1966]

Originally Posted by tucsonjwt

If you have a stock 350 engine a 2 core radiator should be enough. The last time I checked you can get one online (or locally) for about $120-$140. I gave up on having radiators rebuilt because new ones are relatively inexpensive. Also, you might get $35-$45 for your old radiator core (you should separate the brass/copper parts from any steel framework prior to taking it to the scrap yard.)

Originally Posted by Bigstevex4

If its fine when moving its obviously an air flow issue. the proper way to check fan clutch is have some one shut eng off while your watching it it should stop spinning in a turn or so. you cant tell by spinning it by hand if its bad it will spin for a few seconds.

Tucson The PO swapped out to a single core for some reason when he changed from diesel to the 350, he probably damaged it when the motor blew, or getting it out. Either way I just went and got the 2 core Radiator form Autozone and gave 143 for it, no core charge. And disposal works out great, I can just ad it to the ancient central air unit we just had to switch out of our house this spring. it was a 39 year old Rheem 3 ton unit, lots of copper in that one..

Bigsteve, I already checked the fan clutch, it's working fine. As you can see I figured out it was the thin Radiator. Thanks though Brother, much appreciated.