Another newb question, u-joint wear - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

beerbeer95648 · 09-08-2015, 08:59 PM

Pulled my transfer case last week due to a blown bearing that f***ed the case. While I source a replacement decided to check my u-joints. They are all tight with no perceivable movement. But, one did seem a hair stiff. This is the offender.

Would this normally require replacement even if things are tight (scoring at top of pic)? I assume so.

This is the ujoint at the slip yolk next to the transfer case, anyone have a replacement part number? Having a hard time finding a site that explicitly calls out this joint? Are they all the same along the rear driveline?

**hatzie** · 09-08-2015, 09:59 PM

Stiff or notchy. If it's just stiff it could be the ears of the yoke were pushed together and binding the bearing caps. You can strike the yoke at the base of the ear to release the tension on the U-joint
It might be a 1310 or 1330 or 1350 universal joint. There are enough aftermarket yokes made to accommodate larger than stock Universal Joints that you probably should take the dead UNI to a parts store. They'll be able to match it.

Some light humor at your expense...

This is a YOLK...

This is a YOKE...

Kinda like the difference between a Winch and a Wench...
Or the much sought after optional wench over the winch bumper...

beerbeer95648 · 09-08-2015, 10:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hatzie

Stiff or notchy. If it's just stiff it could be the ears of the yoke were pushed together and binding the bearing caps. You can strike the yoke at the base of the ear to release the tension on the U-joint
It might be a 1310 or 1330 or 1350 universal joint. There are enough aftermarket yokes made to accommodate larger than stock Universal Joints that you probably should take the dead UNI to a parts store. They'll be able to match it.

Some light humor at your expense...

This is a YOLK...

This is a YOKE...

Kinda like the difference between a Winch and a Wench...
Or the much sought after optional wench over the winch bumper...

Well deserved...

Teaches me not to proof read my sh*t. Those grooves in the pic cause it to be very slightly notchy. Just barely though. The are just palpable with your nail, and only cause a slight hang occasionally when spinning by hand.

**hatzie** · 09-09-2015, 08:42 AM

Notchy is spent. You'll need to replace it.

77K10Silverado · 09-09-2015, 09:49 AM

Yeah man... unless your on a super tight budget or something. You should replace these especially since you have half the work done! IMO

**hatzie** · 09-09-2015, 05:43 PM

If those grooves are not just grease it won't last long enough to make it worthwhile to re-install it.
They're not a big ticket item anyway.

beerbeer95648 · 09-09-2015, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hatzie

If those grooves are not just grease it won't last long enough to make it worthwhile to re-install it.
They're not a big ticket item anyway.

I hear you. That's what I figured. I just hate this whole domino effect. First the transfer case went, so I pulled it. Thought I might as well do the seal at the adapter, oh and the 10 spline coupler. Now the u joint, might as well do the rest on the rear drive line. So, now I noticed the pinion seal is dripping. Never ending, just like when I decided to do the ball joints....

**hatzie** · 09-10-2015, 05:24 PM

Full floater? Pinion seal on the Corp 14 bolt is fairly easy to do.

beerbeer95648 · 09-10-2015, 05:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by hatzie

Full floater? Pinion seal on the Corp 14 bolt is fairly easy to do.

Yep full floater. I agree, it doesn't seem too bad. Just was a little concerned about getting the pre-load right. My uncle gave me this truck about 10 years ago, but through multiple moves and a 6 and 8 year old I never got dug into it. By the looks of it nothing had ever been done to this truck. Everything is mostly original parts. In the last year I have spent at least a grand in parts and countless weekends in it just trying to get it safely on the road. I consider this my learner truck. My buddies are always going on about their 67-72s, but to my eye the 73-80 square bodies are more appealing, and I adore mine. Dammit! Maybe I will do the pinion seal too

I guess ill starting my countless hours of research on that now.

**hatzie** · 09-10-2015, 09:09 PM

It can be done out of the truck. The pinion depth shims are between the removable pinion retainer and the main axle housing. Just measure and replace with new of the same thickness.
Yukon makes a crush sleeve eliminator kit for the GM & AAM 14bolt so no need of a massive torque wrench.
You can build a pinion holder with a drill press, chunk of 11ga steel plate, pipe, and welder.
The only oddball tool really needed is a decent in/lb torque wrench.

09-08-2015, 08:59 PM	#1
beerbeer95648 Registered User Join Date: Apr 2014 Location: placerville Posts: 72	Another newb question, u-joint wear Pulled my transfer case last week due to a blown bearing that f***ed the case. While I source a replacement decided to check my u-joints. They are all tight with no perceivable movement. But, one did seem a hair stiff. This is the offender. Would this normally require replacement even if things are tight (scoring at top of pic)? I assume so. This is the ujoint at the slip yolk next to the transfer case, anyone have a replacement part number? Having a hard time finding a site that explicitly calls out this joint? Are they all the same along the rear driveline? Attached Images __________________ 1978 Chevy K20 L6 292 4 Speed Manual np 205 140,000 miles

09-08-2015, 09:59 PM	#2
hatzie Moderator Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wentworth, NH Posts: 5,013	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear Stiff or notchy. If it's just stiff it could be the ears of the yoke were pushed together and binding the bearing caps. You can strike the yoke at the base of the ear to release the tension on the U-joint It might be a 1310 or 1330 or 1350 universal joint. There are enough aftermarket yokes made to accommodate larger than stock Universal Joints that you probably should take the dead UNI to a parts store. They'll be able to match it. Some light humor at your expense... This is a YOLK... This is a YOKE... Kinda like the difference between a Winch and a Wench... Or the much sought after optional wench over the winch bumper... __________________ 1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials... 1973-1991 GM Light Truck Service, Unit/Overhaul, Wiring Manuals, Parts Books and Some 1968-1999 GM Service Training textbooks in PDF 1988-1998 GMT400 CK service manual project 1988-1993 GMT400 CK parts books. 1967-1972 GM Light, Medium, & Heavy Truck Service Manuals in PDF Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful. Last edited by hatzie; 09-08-2015 at 10:17 PM.

09-09-2015, 08:42 AM	#4
hatzie Moderator Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wentworth, NH Posts: 5,013	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear Notchy is spent. You'll need to replace it. __________________ 1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials... 1973-1991 GM Light Truck Service, Unit/Overhaul, Wiring Manuals, Parts Books and Some 1968-1999 GM Service Training textbooks in PDF 1988-1998 GMT400 CK service manual project 1988-1993 GMT400 CK parts books. 1967-1972 GM Light, Medium, & Heavy Truck Service Manuals in PDF Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

09-09-2015, 09:49 AM	#5
77K10Silverado Registered User Join Date: Jul 2014 Location: Winston-Salem, NC Posts: 561	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear Yeah man... unless your on a super tight budget or something. You should replace these especially since you have half the work done! IMO __________________ *Mike B.* 77 K10 - http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=1#post6752641

09-09-2015, 05:43 PM	#6
hatzie Moderator Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wentworth, NH Posts: 5,013	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear If those grooves are not just grease it won't last long enough to make it worthwhile to re-install it. They're not a big ticket item anyway. __________________ 1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials... 1973-1991 GM Light Truck Service, Unit/Overhaul, Wiring Manuals, Parts Books and Some 1968-1999 GM Service Training textbooks in PDF 1988-1998 GMT400 CK service manual project 1988-1993 GMT400 CK parts books. 1967-1972 GM Light, Medium, & Heavy Truck Service Manuals in PDF Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

09-10-2015, 05:24 PM	#8
hatzie Moderator Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wentworth, NH Posts: 5,013	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear Full floater? Pinion seal on the Corp 14 bolt is fairly easy to do. __________________ 1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials... 1973-1991 GM Light Truck Service, Unit/Overhaul, Wiring Manuals, Parts Books and Some 1968-1999 GM Service Training textbooks in PDF 1988-1998 GMT400 CK service manual project 1988-1993 GMT400 CK parts books. 1967-1972 GM Light, Medium, & Heavy Truck Service Manuals in PDF Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.

09-10-2015, 09:09 PM	#10
hatzie Moderator Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Wentworth, NH Posts: 5,013	Re: Another newb question, u-joint wear It can be done out of the truck. The pinion depth shims are between the removable pinion retainer and the main axle housing. Just measure and replace with new of the same thickness. Yukon makes a crush sleeve eliminator kit for the GM & AAM 14bolt so no need of a massive torque wrench. You can build a pinion holder with a drill press, chunk of 11ga steel plate, pipe, and welder. The only oddball tool really needed is a decent in/lb torque wrench. __________________ 1959 M35A2 LDT465-1D SOLD 1967 Dodge W200 B383, NP420/NP201 SOLD 1969 Dodge Polara 500 B383, A833 SOLD 1972 Ford F250 FE390, NP435/NP205 SOLD 1976 Chevy K20, 6.5L, NV4500/NP208 SOLD 1986 M1008 CUCV SOLD 2000 GMC C2500, TD6.5L, NV4500 2005 Chevy Silverado LS 2500HD 6.0L 4L80E/NP263 2009 Impala SS LS4 V8 RTFM... GM Parts Books, GM Schematics, GM service manuals, and GM training materials... 1973-1991 GM Light Truck Service, Unit/Overhaul, Wiring Manuals, Parts Books and Some 1968-1999 GM Service Training textbooks in PDF 1988-1998 GMT400 CK service manual project 1988-1993 GMT400 CK parts books. 1967-1972 GM Light, Medium, & Heavy Truck Service Manuals in PDF Please include at least the year and model in your threads. It'll be easier to answer your questions. And please let us know if and how your repairs were successful.



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