My first Chevy truck, need some guidance

[hatzie]

The OEM 1976 system uses a thermal expansion valve that's not easy to setup for R134 refrigerant.
In Europe it could be just as expensive to replace the original AC system as it is to buy the Vintage Air.

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by hatzie

The OEM 1976 system uses a thermal expansion valve that's not easy to setup for R134 refrigerant.
In Europe it could be just as expensive to replace the original AC system as it is to buy the Vintage Air.

Definitely worth taking into consideration! What I like about the Vintage Air system is the simplicity, it comes as a complete kit and that it's a modular/independent "add on" system.
Do you have hands-on experience with their products?

[Gregski]

Welcome, here's couple ideas

For reliability, if you aint got a H.E.I. distributor get one, I bought a Petronix but a good new old stock GM one would be best I think the '76 trucks already had that as an option

For performance, I am giong to go the Vortec cylinder heads route by copying the Chevrolet Perfomance 350 CID 330 HO Engine specifications for the top end part number 1921007, git some used Vortec heads off of a 1998 Chevy Truck part # 12558060 are the good ones, the other part numbers aint so good, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold #7516, etc. built it yourself if you can

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...e-19210007.pdf

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by Gregski

Welcome, here's couple ideas

For reliability, if you aint got a H.E.I. distributor get one, I bought a Petronix but a good new old stock GM one would be best I think the '76 trucks already had that as an option

For performance, I am giong to go the Vortec cylinder heads route by copying the Chevrolet Perfomance 350 CID 330 HO Engine specifications for the top end part number 1921007, git some used Vortec heads off of a 1998 Chevy Truck part # 12558060 are the good ones, the other part numbers aint so good, Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold #7516, etc. built it yourself if you can

http://www.chevrolet.com/content/dam...e-19210007.pdf

Thanks!

There's already a HEI on it. Pulled the cap off it and it looks nice, dry and clean. Not the most expensive part so I'll probably put a MDS (or similar) and some nice cables on it at some point - just to be sure.

And I do like the Air Gap intake, but I think I'll have to go with the regular #2101 with our cooler climate. From what I have found around the web (and the previous link on page 1 of this thread - thanks Rich) it can cause some problems when temps get too low.

[Nygaard]

Speaking of temperatures - I think I'll put some sort of engine or radiator heater on it.
Can't find anything but US spec heaters though, which won't work with our wall sockets and current. I could always chop it up and use a converter, but I would prefer something that just works as it is.

Any suggestions?

[1976gmc20]

Originally Posted by Nygaard

Speaking of temperatures - I think I'll put some sort of engine or radiator heater on it.
Can't find anything but US spec heaters though, which won't work with our wall sockets and current. I could always chop it up and use a converter, but I would prefer something that just works as it is.

Any suggestions?

Just how cold does it get in Denmark ???

I thought it was more like our Pacific Northwest (Seattle).

These old Chevys usually start real good down to about -20F (-30C) but do take a while for the carb to warm up enough to run smooth. They will start even colder than that but you need to drive them long enough to recharge the battery or else the next day or the day after they won't crank long enough.

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by 1976gmc20

Just how cold does it get in Denmark ???

I thought it was more like our Pacific Northwest (Seattle).

These old Chevys usually start real good down to about -20F (-30C) but do take a while for the carb to warm up enough to run smooth. They will start even colder than that but you need to drive them long enough to recharge the battery or else the next day or the day after they won't crank long enough.

Not THAT cold Or at least not regularly..
Around -10C is common in January/February, -20C on a really cold day.
A few years back my '07 Seat (essentially a VW Golf in a sporty dress) began to suffer at -18.9C. It started without trouble, but all the fancy LCD displays just quit.

I do have a lot of shorter drives though, and cold starts below zero are just harder on the engine and fluids in general.

[Nygaard]

Time for an update!

Everything came to a grinding halt because I couldn't get the parts I needed.

I wanted things to move quickly, so I ordered through a company that "specializes" in importing parts from the US.
After several months of waiting and a sh*tload of BS excuses, I finally received the majority of what I ordered - and just had to give up on the rest. And as if the ridiculously slow delivery wasn't enough, the ~$850 worth of parts that actually arrived ended up costing me around $2100. Amateurs...

Lesson learned: If you want something done right, do it yourself! The only problem is that not all retailers are willing to ship internationally, so I'll have to find someone in the US that can help me getting parts over the Atlantic.


On a brighter note, things are slowly moving forward again!

The transmission didn't appear to be eating itself but had a leak that might have been drawing in air. That would explain why it ran fine when cool, but started knocking when the oil got hot (and thinner). All seals are now replaced and fingers are crossed!

ALL other fluids has been replaced as well. Coolant, oil, brake fluid, you name it.

The chrome bed strips started to rust in no time, so I'm having custom strips made in brushed stainless steel. I like the raw look and it can take some abuse while staying pretty.

New winter shoes (COOPER Weathermaster WSC 235/75R15).
I still haven't decided on what I'll run this summer. Leaning towards something like the American Racing Outlaw II in 15x8 with 265/70R15 tires (slightly higher gearing and good availability).

And finally, she passed import inspection this Monday with flying colors!

[hatzie]

The shipper needs an accurate scale and every piece needs to be weighed and then the final box needs to be weighed.
The nastiest part of international shipping, for me, has always been to discover what the "harmonized tariff code" is for the particular piece. A customs broker on the shipper and your side should be able to help but they cost money.

Getting your own customs broker on your end that can tell you exactly what paperwork is needed and how it should be filled out may save you headaches and save you Euros or Krone. Ask if they can look over copies of the shipping docs ahead of actually shipping the equipment so they can find mistakes and you can get them corrected. Some countries agencies don't like people doing this kind of pre-check on the paperwork. Probably because it cuts into additional income from unneeded fines. UPS and DHL seem to add unneeded dollars and time to the customs process. Our Canadian broker says it's because they try to cheat on customs and duties so they can pad their bottom line... He said this when he was in a foul mood so take that for what it is.

You may want to look into what the difference is if you get things shipped from Canada to Europe rather than the US to Europe. There are a lot of these trucks in the Midwest and Western provinces and the customs fees could be quite different.

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by hatzie

The shipper needs an accurate scale and every piece needs to be weighed and then the final box needs to be weighed.
The nastiest part of international shipping, for me, has always been to discover what the "harmonized tariff code" is for the particular piece. A customs broker on the shipper and your side should be able to help but they cost money.

Getting your own customs broker on your end that can tell you exactly what paperwork is needed and how it should be filled out may save you headaches and save you Euros or Krone. Ask if they can look over copies of the shipping docs ahead of actually shipping the equipment so they can find mistakes and you can get them corrected. Some countries agencies don't like people doing this kind of pre-check on the paperwork. Probably because it cuts into additional income from unneeded fines. UPS and DHL seem to add unneeded dollars and time to the customs process. Our Canadian broker says it's because they try to cheat on customs and duties so they can pad their bottom line... He said this when he was in a foul mood so take that for what it is.

You may want to look into what the difference is if you get things shipped from Canada to Europe rather than the US to Europe. There are a lot of these trucks in the Midwest and Western provinces and the customs fees could be quite different.

I hear you, it can be a mess! But it doesn't have to be that complicated.

Usually when I order something off eBay or a company that offers international shipping, they just put it in a box and send it on it's way. When the package arrives at the Danish customs center they will calculate taxes/fees and send me a bill. Done deal.

Unfortunately some companies just like to make things difficult... A couple of examples from Summit, that sells through both eBay and their own webshop:

American Racing Outlaw II 15"x8" wheels
eBay price incl. shipping: $581.54
Webshop price incl. shipping: $833.43
Difference: $251.89(!)
http://peecee.dk/uploads/012016/Summit_wheels.jpg

Summit Racing G-9001 Headers
eBay price incl. shipping: $186.26
Webshop price incl. shipping: $329.49 (almost 3 times the US retail price!)
Difference: 143,23 ($23,26 MORE than the US retail price!)
http://peecee.dk/uploads/012016/Summit_headers.jpg

"So, what's the problem then? Just order through eBay and save a fortune!" you might say.
I would love to - if only they would offer me the right parts!
The wheels are available for international shipping with 5x4.75 bolt pattern, but not 5x5. They are listed http://www.ebay.com/itm/American-Rac...380&rmvSB=true but I can't order them because of a 0.25" difference in bolt pattern.

Same goes for the headers. I need the G9006 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Summit-Racin...item4d2926d380 but I can't order the them. I can however order the G9001, and other variants that doesn't fit my truck.

I have contacted Summit and was told that "Ebay is for selected parts only" which doesn't make any sense in this case, so I'm still hoping for a solution.
If they refuse to play ball though, I will have to find someone that can forward my orders.

[Malo83]

Originally Posted by Nygaard

Time for an update!

Everything came to a grinding halt because I couldn't get the parts I needed.

I wanted things to move quickly, so I ordered through a company that "specializes" in importing parts from the US.
After several months of waiting and a sh*tload of BS excuses, I finally received the majority of what I ordered - and just had to give up on the rest. And as if the ridiculously slow delivery wasn't enough, the ~$850 worth of parts that actually arrived ended up costing me around $2100. Amateurs...

Lesson learned: If you want something done right, do it yourself! The only problem is that not all retailers are willing to ship internationally, so I'll have to find someone in the US that can help me getting parts over the Atlantic.


On a brighter note, things are slowly moving forward again!

The transmission didn't appear to be eating itself but had a leak that might have been drawing in air. That would explain why it ran fine when cool, but started knocking when the oil got hot (and thinner). All seals are now replaced and fingers are crossed!

ALL other fluids has been replaced as well. Coolant, oil, brake fluid, you name it.

The chrome bed strips started to rust in no time, so I'm having custom strips made in brushed stainless steel. I like the raw look and it can take some abuse while staying pretty.

New winter shoes (COOPER Weathermaster WSC 235/75R15).
I still haven't decided on what I'll run this summer. Leaning towards something like the American Racing Outlaw II in 15x8 with 265/70R15 tires (slightly higher gearing and good availability).

And finally, she passed import inspection this Monday with flying colors!

Good looking truck

[flashed]

I cant help with shipping problems but would love to see more pics of that beautiful truck .

[Nygaard]

Originally Posted by Malo83

Good looking truck

Thanks!

Originally Posted by flashed

I cant help with shipping problems but would love to see more pics of that beautiful truck .

More (and better) photos will come as the project moves on

Within the next few weeks I will drop it 2" in the rear to level it out, have a few edges and corners resprayed (better safe than sorry) and give it a complete undercoating treatment.