1969 C10 Longbed BubbaTruck

[jamyers]

Then I found out that the junkyard Q-jet intake manifold I scored for $15 was an early model which required a "sideways" mounted choke thermostat coil. Which of course, isn't readily available like the usual "fore-and-aft" oriented coil. So I had to shop ebay until I scored an NOS Carter coil assembly with the rod, cover, etc for $20, which is about half what everybody else wants for one of these.

[jamyers]

Whoops, I forgot this chapter of the story, which actually happened while I had the intake manifold off, swapping the junkyard Q-jet intake manifold on.

While I had the intake off, I pulled the valve covers and was double-checking the valve adjustments, and realized that they were ALL over the place, some WAY too tight, and others WAY too loose. Sigh, then I look at the cam down inside the block and notice that the #7 exhaust lobe is pretty much wiped out, worn down, and g. o. n. e. - gone.

Here is the lifter and cam lobe:






It was an Engle cam, basically an "RV" grind.

[jamyers]

So a new "RV" cam and lifter were installed into the block, then the valves all readjusted properly (1/2 turn past zero lash), and everything buttoned up.

(I know that I probably should have replaced all the lifters, but the engine/lifters only have maybe 20 hours on them, and 90% of that at idle or no load with stock valve springs, and the existing lifters showed virtually no wear or pattern on their faces, so I'm taking a chance.)

So after much work, we got everything hooked up, fluids topped off, and got the engine started up. Kinda.

It ran rough as a corncob, and no amount of ignition or carb adjusting would get it to settle down. We put a vacuum gauge on it, and it was jumping all over the place from 0-15... VALVES!!!

So we pulled the spark plugs and ran a compression check.
1 = 155, 2 = 165
3 = 0, 4 = 155
5 = 150, 6 = 0
7 = 30, 8 = 160

NOT GOOD.

So after MUCH poking around, we determine that about 1/4 of the lifters are stuck in the fully-pumped-up position, and won't bleed down when we try to adjust them. So we set all of the valve adjustments just a 'hair' short of zero lash, figuring that the lifters will loosen up once the engine runs a bit and I can set them properly then.

Ran another compression check, and this time everything is within spec, with pressures between 170 and 155.

Put everything back together, and it started right up. Did some fast ignition and carb adjustments, then ran it at 2,000 rpm for 15-20 minutes to keep the new cam lubed. No leaks, and after fine tuning and several heat / cold cycles it seems to run rather well, although the oil pressure is good but not great - hard to know exact numbers with the stock gauge

[jamyers]

Time to get the body put together, starting with the fenders.







Then the grille. The plastic insert was broken in several places, but with some glue repairs and some wide washers it bolted back into place, pretty solid once completely installed - way better than when it was removed!

[jamyers]

The original grille and fenders were pretty beat up and took a lot of straightening, hammering, bending, etc to get to within 90% of perfect, including the steel brackets on either side of the grille. I have the rivets, but just bolted the one side together (far simpler)

[jamyers]

Without the grille;



With the grille and its center brackets, hood latch, etc;

[jamyers]

Then the passenger side fender. I probably should have installed both fenders and then the grille, but this is the reverse of how we removed everything, so there you go. The passenger door needed to be adjusted a hair to the rear, and then the door / fender gap was good.