Engine temperature gauge

[stsalvage]

Most of the guys that don't like working with the factory gauges are not that smart.They might be old But they like to cut corners.I had this same problem did the same thing.I found out that some time throw the years you have a internal wire fail got hot and burned one of the wires in your fuse block harness.Now you could fend the nest 3 weeks unraveling the back tape to find the problem.But if you install in new factory M&H harness and fuse block that will Fix your problem.I like the factory gauges from 1964--66 Chevy trucks only.I've log more miles on one truck then most of these guys have owned there trucks.Being in the one business that tears up trucks.Mine survived.I have a 1965 3/4 ton 2 speed power glide with a 4.10 gear ran that truck for 17 years and still have it.I have changed almost every part on this truck.The gauges did the same as yours do.But i had a fire in my cab when i was 17 a wire fire.So i only had to deal with the High temp for 1 year when i replaced my full harness with the re pop M&H harness All my problems went away I even got my hi beams back.I was told by the old Farts back when i was a kid never hook up the volt meter.It was a problem child from the start.But i loved my gauges.Never blown a head gasket on my later 1986 350 that i put over 750,000 miles on.I even wore out the fuel pump lobe on the cam.So ya i do be leave i have room to talk about these trucks.I fixed the high reving problem with my 4.56 gear i had i swapped a 4.10 punkin in and put the 235/85/16 tires on i could cruise at 70 only tacking 3000 RPMs Improved my gas mileage as well by going up to 13 from 8 miles per gallon.I even got a guy that was 70 year old put in something extra on my truck that the 1977 1 tons had.When you carrying a load there is a leaver under the bed on the rear end that intensifies the rear brakes.Ya I've done a lot of testing over the last 20 years.Been hit by 3 drunk drivers from behind.So glade i installed a heavy duty hitch and left that heavy bumper.So ya I like factory stuff some times i really works.Plus when you do the maintenance your suppose to do instead of drinking your parts away.

[The Rocknrod]

I had the gauge panel rebuilt using newer internals on the oil gauge and had it changed to a volt-meter. The temp sender I bought from the lectric place. So I should be good - it could happen.

[stsalvage]

If your running the 350 engine or the V8 engine and using the edalbrock torker2 intake then used this system it works well.the one on the side of the head never seems to work long. They make a alum housing for the thermostatic and the hose you use is the upper Radiator hose for the 327 Number 3898556 TH GM/AU it was the one they used on the 1967-68 chevy trucks But if your using your fiber glass Fan shroud it will direct it right in a way that it fits so well looks factory.One thing you need to do to your radiator you need him to enlarge the top radiator hose opening then this method will work

[stsalvage]

radiator hose

[MikeN]

Originally Posted by The Rocknrod

I had the gauge panel rebuilt using newer internals on the oil gauge and had it changed to a volt-meter. The temp sender I bought from the lectric place. So I should be good - it could happen.

That is a beautiful cluster.

[The Rocknrod]

Originally Posted by MikeN

That is a beautiful cluster.

Thank you, here is one in the truck. I'm in Ohio right now working so I can work more on the truck.

[sixty4bigwindow]

Got the sender, and it works amazing. Couple of questions though.

Anybody know the ACTUAL name of the proper connector for these? And anybody seen any under $5 for ONE. (The only one I've seen was on ebay, and I don't want to spend that much on a connector if I can help it.)

And the other question. I'm picking up my electric fan this weekend, and I have the 40A relay already. Can I run the temp wire on the relay to the sender? I guess I am just not sure how the relay/sender will communicate the proper temperature to turn the fan on. I am thinking I need a different unit to tell the fan what temp to turn on, but I was just wondering if the sender would register the proper temp.

That was a lot of babble, I hope I'm making sense. Thanks guys

[Captainfab]

You will not be able to use your gauge sender to control your electric fan. The wire connector is a Packard 56 style. If you don't want to purchase a new one, you will have to spend a bunch of time searching the wrecking yards for a used one. Personally I would just pony up the $5.00 for a new one.

[sixty4bigwindow]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

You will not be able to use your gauge sender to control your electric fan. The wire connector is a Packard 56 style. If you don't want to purchase a new one, you will have to spend a bunch of time searching the wrecking yards for a used one. Personally I would just pony up the $5.00 for a new one.

Alright, you've sold me on it lol. I've got it ghetto-rigged right now, just crimped a different connector on, and black taped it to secure it. But I will get one ordered to make it work.

As far as the temp sender, I'm going to go with one of the thermal ones from Autozone. The kit is reasonably priced, and it also has an adjustable temperature unit.

Thanks a ton Cap, you're the man.

[Magicnbomber90]

I have a 64 c10 that has a 350 out of a 73 c10 I believe how would I use the factory temp gauge with this engine? Do I run a wire from the gauge to the sensor on they driver side ?
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