Troubleshoot this electrical problem

[zac]

So work schedule keeps getting changed, other stuff happens and I don't get to the truck until about noon today. Have all my tools and parts, trying to be optimistic. At this point the truck has been sitting in a hotel parking lot by the Cincinnati airport for more than two weeks. Parking spot right by the passenger side, I pull in and get out, notice right away the back of the seat is tilted forward. Not how I left it. Somebody came through the sliding window, over the toolbox in the bed, unlocked it and went through everything.

No worries, nothing of value in the cab, but then of course I notice the ignition cylinder had been destroyed. Some moron had actually tried to steal a 40 year old truck worth maybe $2000-$2500 tops. Sitting under lights in a parking lot, right next to a busy road by a couple bars and restaurants that have business until early in the morning. I know you guys in law enforcement see idiocy on a daily basis, but I was blown away. I assume the penalty for stealing a '79 K20 and a 2019 Duramax are the same.

The funny part is that had he gotten the cylinder to turn, the truck was still dead. Got it drug home, knocked out the rest of the cylinder so I could get the wheels to turn and drag it into the shop. So now I guess I will replacing the ignition cylinder or the whole column, or both. I know there are some good threads here on this stuff, if you know of any off the top of your head please point me that way. Thanks again for the help.

[dmack91]

No computers,chipped keys, or PATS makes an older vehicle a much easier target for casual theives.

My column was hacked up when I got it. New\used $25 swap meet column was a simple swap. Much easier than rebuilding my original.

[SunSoaked]

Originally Posted by zac

the truck has been sitting in a hotel parking lot by the Cincinnati airport for more than two weeks.
Parking spot right by the passenger side, I pull in and get out, notice right away the back of the seat is tilted forward. Not how I left it. Somebody came through the sliding window, over the toolbox in the bed, unlocked it and went through everything...Sitting under lights in a parking lot, right next to a busy road by a couple bars and restaurants that have business until early in the morning.

The funny part is...?

Ya, who would've think? Stevie Wonder could have seen that coming. Squares are more valuable than you think.
Two days after buying my 85, I had a Viper alarm installed.

[zac]

Replaced two fusible links, new alternator. Started and ran fine with my push button and a two handed screwdriver. Fuel gauge in and out. Tested the resistor and it seems fine, but it's been an issue since forever. Nothing seems burned out. I really didn't let it run long when it had the problem.

Took the column to a guy who redid it with new and used parts while I waited. Learned a lot watching somebody who knows what they are doing. Side note, the key cylinder that O'Reilly brought him didn't work. We had to take it back to the store and get one that actually turns. He installed and adjusted the new switch, but he made me take the old one home just in case. He wasn't impressed with the new one. Detents sloppy, etc. Guess what, it didn't work. Oh for two. I called the guy and he had me install the original, tweaking the adjustment so that it would fully engage the start function.

Burned wire on one of the ignition switch connectors. It's a small gauge brown and white wire that shares a terminal with a heavy orange wire. I traced it and can tell it's been an issue for a long time and doubt its related to the recent problem. The wire is a single silver conductor. Looped around the harness a bit and then went to the firewall connector. Looks like heat was an issue all the way. Couldn't get the firewall connector off because of course the screw that holds the halves together stripped out. I replaced the wire but would like to know what it does if anyone knows. It says on the diagram "omitted with 6 cyl gauges." My diagrams are incomplete screen shots and I can't really trace it. Anyone knows what it does?

[pitterpat]

Originally Posted by zac

Replaced two fusible links, new alternator. Started and ran fine with my push button and a two handed screwdriver. Fuel gauge in and out. Tested the resistor and it seems fine, but it's been an issue since forever. Nothing seems burned out. I really didn't let it run long when it had the problem.

Took the column to a guy who redid it with new and used parts while I waited. Learned a lot watching somebody who knows what they are doing. Side note, the key cylinder that O'Reilly brought him didn't work. We had to take it back to the store and get one that actually turns. He installed and adjusted the new switch, but he made me take the old one home just in case. He wasn't impressed with the new one. Detents sloppy, etc. Guess what, it didn't work. Oh for two. I called the guy and he had me install the original, tweaking the adjustment so that it would fully engage the start function.

Burned wire on one of the ignition switch connectors. It's a small gauge brown and white wire that shares a terminal with a heavy orange wire. I traced it and can tell it's been an issue for a long time and doubt its related to the recent problem. The wire is a single silver conductor. Looped around the harness a bit and then went to the firewall connector. Looks like heat was an issue all the way. Couldn't get the firewall connector off because of course the screw that holds the halves together stripped out. I replaced the wire but would like to know what it does if anyone knows. It says on the diagram "omitted with 6 cyl gauges." My diagrams are incomplete screen shots and I can't really trace it. Anyone knows what it does?

Don't know what year your truck is but it might be as easy to go to the junk yard, find a vehicle with a key in the ignition (what I did, TRUE) and take out the ignition cylinder from that veh. I had the cheesy push button on my 98 for about 5 years, found a YouTube video of how to remove the steering column...while doing the research I think that video showed how to remove the ignition lock...that was the problem with mine all the time, the ignition lock one of the pins was bad. duh!! Ignition wouldn't turn all the way.

[kipps]

Originally Posted by zac

I replaced the wire but would like to know what it does if anyone knows. It says on the diagram "omitted with 6 cyl gauges." My diagrams are incomplete screen shots and I can't really trace it. Anyone knows what it does?

This thread explains that tan/white wire, circuit #130. Note that I misunderstood this wire in one of my posts. Read Ray_Mcovoy's post(#4) to get the correct info.

This thread has links to Hatzie's scanned manuals, including full wiring diagrams.

[zac]

Thanks for coming through here, kipps. I knew there was something different about that wire, which is why I wanted to know more. The fact that it’s a resistance wire makes sense given the heat issues it’s had. There was a place where a PO had taped up the burned insulation, but there were also areas I wondered if it had just happened. Makes sense since it was an alternator problem that started this whole dumpster fire.

Not sure if I will try a salvaged wire or the resistor. Probably the resistor.

Thanks again.

[pitterpat]

Originally Posted by SunSoaked

Ya, who would've think? Stevie Wonder could have seen that coming. Squares are more valuable than you think.
Two days after buying my 85, I had a Viper alarm installed.

That's why I'm keeping mine looking sorry.