The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-08-2020, 03:42 PM   #26
weim55
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Larkspur, Colorado
Posts: 916
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy View Post
Yes, as 57taskforce said, one fuse is on the driver side of the radiator support near the voltage regulator. The other is over on the passenger side near the battery. The factory fuse holders take 4 amp SFE4 fuses and look like this:



The 64 - 66 trucks used the same exact ammeter circuit as 67 - 72. So when working properly, the behavior should be the same. However, 64 - 66 did not have the little 4 amp fuses protecting the meter movement and it's associated wiring. I've seen a few 64 - 66 wiring harnesses with melted ammeter wiring so I think adding the inline fuses to those years is a good idea.

Great information! I will dig in on my 69 at some point soon to see if the fuses are the issue. I too would greatly prefer a voltmeter but if the amateur would work as good as the one in my 65 I would be perfectly happy. I can always tell right away if the charging system is functioning properly.

Steve weim55 Colorado
weim55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2020, 03:45 PM   #27
weim55
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2017
Location: Larkspur, Colorado
Posts: 916
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn View Post
Mine has always worked just fine and it is interesting information but I always thought that these gauges (temperature, battery charge/discharge, and oil pressure should also have an "idiot light" on the gauge somewhere. I almost lost an engine (and it did fail a few months later) when the fan belt broke causing a very severe overheat. Who drives around monitoring these gauges constantly?
Some decades back I had a 72C 10 that I Combined an idiot light dashboard with a gauge dashboard so I had both the gauges and the lights.

Steve weim55 Colorado
weim55 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2020, 04:29 PM   #28
ohboy321
Senior Member
 
ohboy321's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Dunbarton, NH
Posts: 278
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Does anyone know of a source for these small fuse holders? Both of mine are missing, and I would like to find replacements that are similar.

ohboy321 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2020, 04:33 PM   #29
Stocker
20' Daredevil (Ret)
 
Stocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,576
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn View Post
Mine has always worked just fine and it is interesting information but I always thought that these gauges (temperature, battery charge/discharge, and oil pressure should also have an "idiot light" on the gauge somewhere. I almost lost an engine (and it did fail a few months later) when the fan belt broke causing a very severe overheat. Who drives around monitoring these gauges constantly?
Agree 100%, idiot lights to back up gauges have always made sense to me, for the same reason.
__________________
- Mike -

1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205

RIP El Jay
Stocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2020, 07:32 PM   #30
ray_mcavoy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman, ME
Posts: 2,359
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ohboy321 View Post
Does anyone know of a source for these small fuse holders? Both of mine are missing, and I would like to find replacements that are similar.
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone sells replacement fuse holders that look the same or similar to the originals. The ammeter wiring and the associated fuse holders are part of the front light harness. So purchasing a stock replacement style front light harness from a company such as American Autowire or M&H Electric Fabricators would be one option.

Or, for a functional but not quite as original looking replacement, you could use a couple of waterproof mini ATM fuse holders such as this: https://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-MI.../dp/B00NU9AW42


Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn View Post
Mine has always worked just fine and it is interesting information but I always thought that these gauges (temperature, battery charge/discharge, and oil pressure should also have an "idiot light" on the gauge somewhere. I almost lost an engine (and it did fail a few months later) when the fan belt broke causing a very severe overheat. Who drives around monitoring these gauges constantly?
Yes, having both warning lights and gauges is a good idea. The stock gauge cluster in these trucks uses the same fuel gauge assembly as the warning light clusters. So it does have the provision for a temperature warning light. The little red plastic lens with "TEMP" printed on it is already in there. Making it functional would simply be a matter of installing a bulb & socket in that hole and running a wire out to a temperature switch on the engine. Adding an oil pressure light into the stock gauge cluster would take a little more work though.
ray_mcavoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-08-2020, 11:42 PM   #31
Already Gone
70+ ( Old Skool Club )
 
Already Gone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan ,Canada
Posts: 9,105
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

I put one of T-Bones voltage gauge conversion kits in my truck and it works great. Link below..


http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=653967
__________________
1972 C10 Custom/Deluxe 613 Highlander 406/700R4
1999 White Tahoe LS 4x2 with Z56 Police Package
1992 K1500 GMC Suburban

Members I have personally met: MusicMan70 - HeavyD - ChewyChevy67 - StingRay -71SWB4x4 - 67 Burb - DeadheadNM - too much stuff - bc65 - das601

" Circumsatances Do Not Change Responsibility "

" The Sky is not the Limit, Your Mind is." Marilyn Monroe ..


RIP Charlie Watts 1941 - 2021
Already Gone is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 01:27 AM   #32
godlytroop
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Arcadia, California
Posts: 18
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy View Post
Unfortunately, I don't think anyone sells replacement fuse holders that look the same or similar to the originals. The ammeter wiring and the associated fuse holders are part of the front light harness. So purchasing a stock replacement style front light harness from a company such as American Autowire or M&H Electric Fabricators would be one option.

Or, for a functional but not quite as original looking replacement, you could use a couple of waterproof mini ATM fuse holders such as this: https://www.amazon.com/1st-Source-MI.../dp/B00NU9AW42




Yes, having both warning lights and gauges is a good idea. The stock gauge cluster in these trucks uses the same fuel gauge assembly as the warning light clusters. So it does have the provision for a temperature warning light. The little red plastic lens with "TEMP" printed on it is already in there. Making it functional would simply be a matter of installing a bulb & socket in that hole and running a wire out to a temperature switch on the engine. Adding an oil pressure light into the stock gauge cluster would take a little more work though.
Just to add a quick point. I have the same issue with adding idiot lights to a cluster with gauges. You can absolutely wire the light to come on when either the oil pressure switch OR temp switch comes on. All you have to do is wire the two switches in parallel. That way if the oil pressure or temp switch grounds it will turn on the light and then you can check the gauges to see which switch is the culprit.

That temp light gets 12V constant from the cluster and what turns it on is if that wire gets connected to ground. If you take that grounding wire and split it in two there you can connect one end to the temp switch and one to oil.

Thanks,
KJ
__________________
1967 Camaro Emerald Turquoise
RSSS 396, Muncie M21, 12 Bolt 3.73 Posi, Hotchkis/QA1 Suspension

1970 CST/10 Dark Olive
Short bed Fleetside, 350 SBC, Muncie M21, PS/PB
godlytroop is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 07:22 AM   #33
special-K
Special Order

 
special-K's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,862
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

I've never had one not work. They are handy and useful for what they are meant to do.
__________________
"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed"

GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project)
GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling)
Tim

"Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman"

R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~
special-K is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 10:38 AM   #34
rpmerf
Registered User
 
rpmerf's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Parkville, MD
Posts: 1,024
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ray_mcavoy View Post
Yes, having both warning lights and gauges is a good idea. The stock gauge cluster in these trucks uses the same fuel gauge assembly as the warning light clusters. So it does have the provision for a temperature warning light. The little red plastic lens with "TEMP" printed on it is already in there. Making it functional would simply be a matter of installing a bulb & socket in that hole and running a wire out to a temperature switch on the engine. Adding an oil pressure light into the stock gauge cluster would take a little more work though.
Factory temp sender is the driver's side head. Could put a switch for the light in the passenger's side head, or on the manifold if you have a port there, or on the thermostat housing. Thermostat housing would not be good if the thermostat was stuck closed though.

For oil pressure, use a T right where it comes out of the block and a pressure switch from a gauge cluster car.

Another thought is the bulb test when you turn the key to start.
__________________
1970 C20 Custom Camper - 350, TH350
1997 GMC Suburban
1994 Acura Integra GSR
1987 Dodge Daytona Shelby Z
rpmerf is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 10:50 AM   #35
StingRay
Senior Member
 
StingRay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: Saskatoon,SK,Canada
Posts: 2,476
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

I did that 30 year ago. Works great.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpmerf View Post
Factory temp sender is the driver's side head. Could put a switch for the light in the passenger's side head, or on the manifold if you have a port there, or on the thermostat housing. Thermostat housing would not be good if the thermostat was stuck closed though.

For oil pressure, use a T right where it comes out of the block and a pressure switch from a gauge cluster car.

Another thought is the bulb test when you turn the key to start.
__________________
Saskatoon, Saskatchewan
Canada
StingRay is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 11:34 AM   #36
71gmcC15
Registered User
 
71gmcC15's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Doland SD
Posts: 836
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by WorkinLonghorn View Post
Mine has always worked just fine and it is interesting information but I always thought that these gauges (temperature, battery charge/discharge, and oil pressure should also have an "idiot light" on the gauge somewhere. I almost lost an engine (and it did fail a few months later) when the fan belt broke causing a very severe overheat. Who drives around monitoring these gauges constantly?
I check my gauges all the time. I gess it's a habit. Even in new pickups I am allways looking at the gauges.
__________________
( second times the charm) 71 gmc c15 307 sbc 373 rear gears positrac sm 465 trans. ( not listed on spid but is original )
94 chevy k1500 350 tbi 373 rear gears 4l60e one wheel peel. Gutless
07 gmc sierra classic rcsb 4.3 lt 5 speed w/t
04 chevy Silverado 1500 ext cab 5.3 4l60e.
81 chevy Scottsdale k10 muncie sm465 Np208 10 bolt 8.2 ( Old Green)
71gmcC15 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 01:04 PM   #37
toolboxchev
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: 2nd left past the stump on a dirt road.
Posts: 2,629
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

I cleaned all the grounds in my vehicle, adding 1 or 2 where necessary. The entire electrical system came to life, including the Ammeter gauge.

Use dielectric grease where you have a bolted connection.

Pretty simple
toolboxchev is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 04:49 PM   #38
ray_mcavoy
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Sherman, ME
Posts: 2,359
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Quote:
Originally Posted by godlytroop View Post
Just to add a quick point. I have the same issue with adding idiot lights to a cluster with gauges. You can absolutely wire the light to come on when either the oil pressure switch OR temp switch comes on. All you have to do is wire the two switches in parallel. That way if the oil pressure or temp switch grounds it will turn on the light and then you can check the gauges to see which switch is the culprit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rpmerf View Post
Factory temp sender is the driver's side head. Could put a switch for the light in the passenger's side head, or on the manifold if you have a port there, or on the thermostat housing. Thermostat housing would not be good if the thermostat was stuck closed though.

For oil pressure, use a T right where it comes out of the block and a pressure switch from a gauge cluster car.

Another thought is the bulb test when you turn the key to start.

I agree, the existing TEMP light could be wired up to both temp and oil pressure switches to make it function as a "check gauges" warning light. And yes, a temp switch in the pass side head on a V8 or manifold port and oil switch connected to a Tee fitting where the gauge line goes into the block would do the trick. Wiring it up to the ignition switch (like GM did with the stock TEMP & BRAKE lights) for a bulb check during start-up is a good idea too.

When I said earlier, "Adding an oil pressure light into the stock gauge cluster would take a little more work though." I was thinking along the lines of what it would take to cut in a stock looking "window" and fit it with a lens with "OIL" printed on it.
ray_mcavoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-09-2020, 05:05 PM   #39
Chris_oz
Registered User
 
Chris_oz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: Newcastle, New South Wales, Australia
Posts: 139
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Mine has not moved since I have owned the truck, put a fuse in the drivers side holder as there was none.

Magic.....works like a new one.

Very happy.
Chris_oz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2020, 02:19 AM   #40
67 twins
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Herculaneum MO (20 minutes south of St. Louis
Posts: 605
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Of the 4 trucks the wife & I own only one Ammeter doesn't work. The wiring on that truck has been so butchered I'm surprised anything works.
__________________
67 C10 283 T5 swapped longbed fleetside = wife's daily driver
67 C20 292 (originally a 250)4speed longbed fleetside w/original wooden bed=my project truck
67 C10 283+.060 (so a 292 as well)T5 swapped longbed fleetside=my DD
72 C1500 Sierra Grande 350 TH350 longbed fleetside=wife's fair weather truck
Can you tell we are fans of longbed fleetsides & 67s
Chris
67 twins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2020, 02:23 AM   #41
67 twins
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Herculaneum MO (20 minutes south of St. Louis
Posts: 605
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Who drives around monitoring these gauges constantly?[/QUOTE]

Those who don't want to replace an engine from a severe overheat or a loss of oil pressure
__________________
67 C10 283 T5 swapped longbed fleetside = wife's daily driver
67 C20 292 (originally a 250)4speed longbed fleetside w/original wooden bed=my project truck
67 C10 283+.060 (so a 292 as well)T5 swapped longbed fleetside=my DD
72 C1500 Sierra Grande 350 TH350 longbed fleetside=wife's fair weather truck
Can you tell we are fans of longbed fleetsides & 67s
Chris
67 twins is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-10-2020, 05:20 PM   #42
cstanley
Senior Member
 
cstanley's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 1,229
Re: Factory ammeters never work, why?

Mine works great as well. Slight drop into charge territory with headlights, then gets really bouncy with a/c and gets buried with subwoofer...
__________________
"Anybody who would paint his truck like this, would go to a minister's funeral dressed in feathers!" - Big Enis Burdett

'72 Blazer Restoration Blog: http://sportchicken.blogspot.com/
cstanley is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:08 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com