Engine Blew, recommendations?

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by special-K

That place buys from GM at what is probably a 30% discount and put a little profit on it. Commercial shippers pay crazy cheap shipping. People blame fuel costs on the ever rising cost for us little people to ship our things. I believe what it is, with such a huge amount of products now being bought "mail order" and parcel carriers giving deep discounts to compete for contracts, our cost keeps going up.

So you paid $300 for the truck? You realize that you are now exceeding the purchase price of this vehicle with the cost of this repair . You can truly say it's like buying another truck. But it would be hard to find one today for the cost of this repair. You are buying a new life for the same truck is more like it. A truck you know and like.

I had an engine swapped in to my '92 in '06 and $1,000 was the shops standard charge for that. So, not too bad for today in your area I'd say

Yeah, when I bought it from the estate of the original owner for $300 it had 86K miles on it and was near perfect. Had a 12 1/2' camper on it it's whole life.

The guy I am going to use for the R+R is charging $550 which will include all gaskets Etc. I'll probably provide some new motor mounts (engine mounts?)jk, and a new fuel pump. Water pump is relatively new. I guess a new clutch disk at least, maybe a throw-out bearing. It's pretty new also.

I looked at used trucks around here and I'm not going to spend 12K on a used-up truck and the one I have is fine and in many ways better than the newer ones. -BA

[WorkinLonghorn]

Originally Posted by ManNamedJed

Before you install it would be a nice time to swap the cam. Cams are cheap, but a pain to install once its in the vehicle.

I used the Summit 1102, but wish I'd gone a bit more aggressive. Here's one to consider:
https://www.summitracing.com/nv/parts/sum-1103

Do you still have points ignition? Also a good time to do a HEI swap.

I thought of that and I still might slip in an RV stick. My truck tips the scales at ~5300 Lbs. with tools. With a load of gravel or 7 Yds. of mulch it is, well it's really heavy. Not sure that cam you linked would be correct in view of that.

My last truck, a '69 GMC 1500, had a 350 with an RV cam and it was a blast to drive (up to about 4,000 RPM). It would break a tire loose in second gear (465 manual trans) at ~15 MPH if you dropped the hammer and it had 33" tires and 3.07 gears. Of course it weighed 900 Lbs. less than my Longhorn. Thanks -BA

[5.3rambler]

Did Radley give the crate engine a warranty and do u know if the warranty is good whether a DIY'er installs?

Thanks,
Jason

[Warship2k15]

Ok my vote is for an l31 create engine.It is 2k or less.It has vortec heads and has great torque.Original truck engine.puts out between 300-350 hp with free flowing exhaust and carburetor.only things you will need is an intake manifold since it has vortec heads.you can buy one from summit etc ,a electric fuel pump.It comes without the mechanical pump provision.And a different flywheel.

This engine will give you better fuel mileage,Torque,HP and has a roller cam.In my opinion it is one of the best values out there.
Posted via Mobile Device

[WorkinLonghorn]

Haven't checked about the warranty yet, still working on an R+R location.

Warship, that is very tempting if it is a bolt-in with all accessories bolting up without issues (power steering,alternator, water pump,AC comp in future). I'd have to research the fuel pump issue. Sounds like it would eat up some time to figure out and get set-up correctly. Time is my enemy at this point since I am renting and borrowing trucks. Thanks for the idea. I'll kick it around and see. I did like the idea of a new engine though. The L31 I looked at (Jegs) was "rebuilt".

[WorkinLonghorn]

Update; After almost 4 weeks in the shop with me coming in a couple or three days to do some of the work my GM performance 195 HP Chevy 350 from Jegs was apparently ready to fire up. I gave the guy the printed instructions on how to break it in and told him to call me before he started it up. Well he didn't call and when I went in yesterday to check on progress it had been run. I wanted to check it out and started it up and it sounded like crap, missing badly and running very rough. So I held it at ~2000-2500 (by ear, the tach is not hooked up) for 10 minutes or so but it was not pretty.
So the guy tells me to replace the plug wires and I got a set and put them on even though the old set worked perfectly on the old engine, no change. I got it home and checked for vacuum leaks (none found), changed a few wires, no improvement.

Funny thing with this crate motor is that the valve covers must be glued on. It you remove all of the bolts and try to pry a cover off, the cheap and thin metal just starts to fold up and distort the cover.

I am thinking that the cam is toast. If so, and I will HAVE to mangle a cover to get in and see the lift at the rockers, then I will need to find another mechanic or roll the dice again with this guy ($550) and take it out, send it from here (california) to Ohio, get a anew one and start over. WOW not the result I expected!!! And my business is in the toilet as a result of not having my truck. Tomorrow I might take it on a few jobs that have to be done, 75 miles total even with the missing and roughness. Crap!

[randy500]

Im sure the cam is fine, the break in instructions are to be really safe and ideal, too many people worry about wiping a cam out.
Start with the common stuff and the basics.
Timing, and i dont mean degrees of advance at idle, right cylinder at the right time, its probably wired wrong.

Pull number one plug, hold finger in plug hole while someone turns motor over by hand, as pressure builds line up the timing marks.....pull cap and see that its timed to number one plug wire.

[randy500]

I use a spark plug air hold adapter, a 4’ piece of hose and bring he hose in the cab, bump starter till i feel pressure, go out and rotate crank to line up the timing marks, makes it a one man job.

All other methods of finding TDC on number one suck unless you choose to watch the intake valve close with the valve cover off.

The fitting
https://www.amazon.com/Performance-T.../dp/B0002KO3XI

The hose
https://www.amazon.com/Flexzilla-Swi...omotive&sr=1-1

Or similar on both

[El Dorado Jim]

Originally Posted by wesmigletz

I've used this one with good results. It will eliminate as many variables as possible. Install with a new water pump for reliability.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/CHEVROLET-1...53.m1438.l2649

I got this engine through Radley also, it has been great, has been in the truck over 2 1/2 years now with no problem...I highly recommend this

[randy500]

If the cam is damaged, it should still run well, just a little less lift, hasn't been run long enough to wear a lot off the lobe.
If much is worn off the lobe you would have ticking lifter noise.

[jocko]

Originally Posted by un4gvn!

Get one of the GMPerformance engines from Summit or Jegs. Direct bolt in using all your attachments. Stay away from eBay. Lots of crooks on eBay.

Just to elaborate on a few other posts - Radley is a reputable Chevrolet dealer on the east coast that just happens to also have an ebay store. They also have a website, and they sell GM Goodwrench engines, just like Jegs and Summit. Usually for less money. I'm with you - I "fear" ebay too - but it's worth doing a little research before dismissing a great engine source just because they happen to also have an ebay store in addition to their brick n mortar and website stores.

WorkinLonghorn - I'm with Randy, your problem sounds like wiring to me. I'd start there. Hopefully not the cam, but try the easy stuff first at least. Good luck, very frustrating!

[randy500]

I almost bought this L31 vortec from Radley, got it from summit, ordered monday arrived today...just blew the warranty today too, doing a little blueprinting.

Anyway pic shows my spark plug air hose, wrong head but you get the idea, it does make it into the cab from the number 1 plug, i use it all the time on engine installs to find #1 on a compression stroke.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Thanks guys for the encouragement. Maybe not the cam, but it beats me what it is and yes, we located TDC twice and wired it up correctly with new wires and plugs. Going down the road giving it a little gas, it does feel strong. Strong like 7 cylinders strong and it revs up quickly in Neutral, just a couple cylinders are not cooperating and the idle is crappy. I'm starting to think that this guy left something in the intake or something. His shop was a real mess. I saw the lifter valley before the intake was installed and he had little pieces of dirt in there and I suggested that he vacuum or blow this out and he just grumbled a little. I said "I'd hate to see that get into the lifters". Anyway I am feeling better after reading these posts. I will try a new cap on the distrib, then maybe check compression, vacuum ( I don't see a place to "T" off of). But it is going to work tomorrow even if with only 6 cylinders.

[WorkinLonghorn]

One weird thing though is that the truck had almost 1/2 tank of gas when it went into the shop and when I wanted to start it up I couldn't because it was empty! I asked where it went and he said it leaked out while he had the fuel pump disconnected. He also used gasoline in a tub to use as cleaner and he showed me that, so I really don't know how long they had it running for.

[davischevy]

This is a stretch, and you said you checked for vacuum leaks, but I am playing on your mechanics trashy shop.

Years ago I knew a guy that had similar symptoms, and it turned out to be some trash stuck to the carburetor base gasket.

I'm with the other guys here, I bet it's something relatively simple, not the cam.

[AussieinNC]

Pull the spark plugs and make sure the gaps have not closed up due to it not being checked before install or dropped on floor and not rechecked....

Make sure the firing order is correct...so many times I have found firing order crossed up...1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2....

Remove the carb and make sure NEW gaskets are in place between carb and manifold....then double check manifold gaskets to the head surfaces are NEW !

Replace the fuel filter with a NEW one...

Did the shop install a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft?
Did they clean out the radiator?
Did they install a thermostat?
Did they install new heater hoses with new clamps?
Did they install new water pump?

The install fee was cheap for a reason...

I wont look at an Engine R&R on any vehicle for less than $1000 plus materials....

Good luck....

[WorkinLonghorn]

Thanks Larry, It's possible that this guy broke a plug or left something in the carb or manifold. I'll have to just start checking everything until I find it. I took it around to a bunch of jobs today about 70 miles total. Just seems to be missing one cylinder and rough at times, but I was able to use the truck at least! -BA

[WorkinLonghorn]

AssieinNC I tried to answer all of your questions but the site won't let me post for some reason. Here, I will try to paste it here;

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Pull the spark plugs and make sure the gaps have not closed up due to it not being checked before install or dropped on floor and not rechecked....Yes I will have to do this, also the guy used metric sockets and maybe he broke some porcelain

Make sure the firing order is correct...so many times I have found firing order crossed up...1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2....We checked this 2 or 3 times but I will check it again when I put a new cap on it

Remove the carb and make sure NEW gaskets are in place between carb and manifold....then double check manifold gaskets to the head surfaces are NEW !The carb to manifold gasket got reused because the new one was too thick and the bolts and nuts could not reach.Manifold to head gaskets are new felpro

Replace the fuel filter with a NEW one...Good point, will do

Did the shop install a pilot bearing in the end of the crankshaft? GM Perf. crate enginess come with pilot bushing
Did they clean out the radiator?No, but he painted the fins black!
Did they install a thermostat?No but temp is very good all day on the road today
Did they install new heater hoses with new clamps?Just a bypass hose (heater core needs replacement) Yes, new clamps
Did they install new water pump?The one on there was practically brand new, I did opt for a new fuel pump and new fuel hoses connecting the extra fuel filter in-line

The install fee was cheap for a reason...You got that right! he did totally clean and paint the intake manifold and the water pump and some other stuff like the valve covers.

I wont look at an Engine R&R on any vehicle for less than $1000 plus materials....Yeah, the one other quote I got was $1000. He said shop rates were $100/hour Thanks! -BA I hope this posts.

Good luck....

[BigBird05]

Did he reinstall your old distributor or did you get a new one? A lot of new HEI's that are cheep are not worth useing.

[WorkinLonghorn]

Big Bird, I agree with you. He reinstalled the cheapo Skip White distrib that was working perfectly, except that I changed out the rotor to a new one I had in the truck for a spare (whole distrib behind the seat actually) Oh, the vacuum advance diaphragm was shot so I changed the canister with a new one from the spare distrib. I'm starting to think that maybe that rotor was somehow slightly different, so maybe I should hunt for the old one.

[buds56]

I think I would drive a few hundred miles, then pull the plugs to see how they look.

This is assuming the timing and dwell are set correctly.

Improper fuel mixture from the carb will also give you a miss especially at idle.

The carb may have been thrown around and may have some debris in it affecting the mixture.

Intake may have a vacuum leak from not sealing correctly.

JMHO, Good Luck

[WorkinLonghorn]

Thanks buds56,
I put a new cap on the distrib and no change.It is really sounding like an electrical problem so I might swap in a new distributor that i have as a spare. Maybe replace the plugs too. But yeah, could be a vac leak at the manifold into the valley.

[WorkinLonghorn]

UPDATE;

I should have posted this along time ago but I was reading the reviews for this GM Performance Crate 350 (195 HP) and one guy was complaining that the valve lifters were out of adjustment so I checked and I found all were set at 0+ 1/2 turn EXCEPT 2 were set to about 0+ 1 1/2 turns. I set them all to + 3/4 (my book says 0+1) And now It runs good, all 8 firing nicely. I checked compression and all are above 160 on my ancient and cheap gauge.
Oil pressure is about 40 @ 2500+ and at idle,(hot) it is an impressive 25 or so going by the stock gauge assuming that straight up is 30. This is with 10-40 oil.
Power is pretty much what I expected, about the same as the "rebuilt" one that I had in there. Nothing exceptional with this 5300 Lb. truck with tools but it is more than "adequate" for a strictly work only truck.
Not sure why it likes 16° BTDC but it does and so did the last 350 I had using the same distributor and it's limited timing advance. -BA

[davischevy]

Who wouda' thunk it?

You just assume a new crate motor is going to be dialed in. It goes to show you can't take anything for granted.