How far should I go with paint prep?

[Peanut74]

Glad you decided to do it yourself and do some more learning. For cheap spray guns I got a set from Harbor Freight. It had a large spray gun and a smaller touch up gun. You will need the touch up gun when you sand out the runs in the primer while you are in your learning phase. I also watched a lot of youtube videos the one I learned the most from was DIY Autobody School made by a ex-navy guy. I am personally still working on how to lay the finish coat without sags or runs. As stated the lighter colors are much more forgiving and part of the reason I am painting my truck a mint green.

[MAC71Cheyenne]

From what I have seen so far my 2 cents is you can do this yourself. White should not be much of an issue. A clean dust free workspace and have at it.
40 years ago my Uncle, (Mr Corvette) restored a "63 split window in the shop bay of his gas station. When he painted it he did it on a couple Sundays by turning on some heat, dampened the floor and shot it with rattle cans. Not just any rattle cans, but custom mixed and loaded by Ditsler with the correct red for the car. Show winner!, many times over. Being friends with Arkus-Duntov and having connections in high places got the two cases of paint. Moral of the story is you can get a great paint job with out all the mystery...cleanliness and patience.

[BigBird05]

As I sit here in quarantine, I have read all of the comments so far. The last time I painted a car we were using lacquer paint. The first one came out OK the second one had a tiger stripe down the roof. (silver) The thing I have learned about painting is you can always sand it off. Even with the cost of extra materials it will still be cheaper in the long run and you can stretch it out over time. Don't expect a Rembrandt when you are painting by numbers. LOL

[uxdesigner]

Originally Posted by Jim70Chevy

It's decided. Going with white. Just put up plastic sheeting all around the garage and already prepping panels. Thanks again for all the responses. Hope to have it in paint by January.

Check out my build thread, I painted my truck in our garage and willing to help you out with any advice, tools or guidance that you may need considering I'm also in Rocklin.

[StingRay]

White is a great color as far as hiding imperfections. The challenge with it is you can face a whiteout situation in improper lighting. Making sure you have proper coverage can be a challenge.

[RichardJ]

>>you can face a whiteout situation <<

That's a great way to put it. When spraying Black, you flow the paint out until you see a guy with a mask and a gun looking back at you. White can blind you so that it's had to see the coverage. Even taping for a second color or stripe over fresh white can be a challenge for my eyes.

Black is a little harder to prep for, but so much easier to spray.

[Jim70Chevy]

Thank you all for your comments. I have picked out some materials below and would love any feedback.

The plan is to stay with TCP products and finish and full coat with 2k white epoxy (White Epoxy DTM High-Performance Primer/Sealer)

Then finish bodywork using guide coat and filler as needed.

Then a coat of grey TCP Polyester Primer Surfacer High-Performance Maximum Fill and more sanding using guide coat

Lastly several coats of TCP HOT ROD Gloss by Custom Shop single-stage urethane in one of the white shades they offer.

Any issues with that setup?

Also, I am reading that single-stage urethane is VERY unhealthy and that I should be fully protected. I have a half-face dual cartridge face mask that I have been using up until now but I am reading that I should be fully covered and use a constant flow supplied air full face mask.

Amazon has several for under $200. The pro ones go for more than $500. How much of this is necessary?

Thanks again.

[Jim70Chevy]

Originally Posted by uxdesigner

Check out my build thread, I painted my truck in our garage and willing to help you out with any advice, tools or guidance that you may need considering I'm also in Rocklin.

I appreciate it very much and will likley take you up on that. I am also into UX UI Design and the creative field.

[67GMCcampercruiser]

I recently bought a Devilbiss sprayer for $300. What a huge difference from the cheap sprayers I've had. So easy to paint with. Just painted a truck and my compresser with 80 gallon tank only started up a few times. I taught myself how to spray paint.

[notsolo]

On your respirator, how many more cars and trucks are you going to paint? A full tyvek bunny suit and a good respirator, Should be fine...move the fumes out of you area. I have a fan blowing in and a fan blowing out, keep the air moving, use a filter on both if you can. 1st I've seen of the battery power air supply, no reviews yet? ..On your materials, Epoxy is great, are your panels that rough that you need polyester filler? Spot fill bare metal, Epoxy, spot fill, guide coat another coat of epoxy, wait a couple days, sand and top coat. Just my 2 cents.

[Jim70Chevy]

Originally Posted by 67GMCcampercruiser

I recently bought a Devilbiss sprayer for $300. What a huge difference from the cheap sprayers I've had. So easy to paint with. Just painted a truck and my compresser with 80 gallon tank only started up a few times. I taught myself how to spray paint.

I read good things about the DeVilbiss guns. I already have another one on the way that has good reviews. It should have between a 4-6 CFM working pressure. I am also going to be upgrading my compressor.

I must admit I did consider a turbine HVLP spraying system. Saw a video where they seemed to do great with little to no overspray. BUT this is likely going to be my only real paint job and the compressor is a better investment for the long run.

[Jim70Chevy]

Originally Posted by notsolo

On your respirator, how many more cars and trucks are you going to paint? A full tyvek bunny suit and a good respirator, Should be fine...move the fumes out of you area. I have a fan blowing in and a fan blowing out, keep the air moving, use a filter on both if you can. 1st I've seen of the battery power air supply, no reviews yet? ..On your materials, Epoxy is great, are your panels that rough that you need polyester filler? Spot fill bare metal, Epoxy, spot fill, guide coat another coat of epoxy, wait a couple days, sand and top coat. Just my 2 cents.

This will likely be my first and last real paint job. Too much work and mess. I will look into the fans and try to be as ventilated as possible.

I wasn't sure about the poly fill. Just read that that was the best approach. I can make the panels pretty straight with standard filler and epoxy. Just didn't want to skip a step.

[Carl Spangler]

Originally Posted by Jim70Chevy

Thank you all for your comments. I have picked out some materials below and would love any feedback.

The plan is to stay with TCP products and finish and full coat with 2k white epoxy (White Epoxy DTM High-Performance Primer/Sealer)

Then finish bodywork using guide coat and filler as needed.

Then a coat of grey TCP Polyester Primer Surfacer High-Performance Maximum Fill and more sanding using guide coat

Lastly several coats of TCP HOT ROD Gloss by Custom Shop single-stage urethane in one of the white shades they offer.

Any issues with that setup?


Also, I am reading that single-stage urethane is VERY unhealthy and that I should be fully protected. I have a half-face dual cartridge face mask that I have been using up until now but I am reading that I should be fully covered and use a constant flow supplied air full face mask.

Amazon has several for under $200. The pro ones go for more than $500. How much of this is necessary?

Thanks again.

Back in the day I painted cars with simple nose/mouth/cartridge respirators. Today............. NOT now, after seeing my brother's lungs get toasted from hazardous fumes.

Anyway, the newer full face respirators are probably good enough IF you get good-excellent through shop ventilation.

Another option (one I would definitely do myself) would be a commercial powered system or a DIY like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX-glTu6tz0&t=11s

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by Carl Spangler

Back in the day I painted cars with simple nose/mouth/cartridge respirators. Today............. NOT now, after seeing my brother's lungs get toasted from hazardous fumes.

Anyway, the newer full face respirators are probably good enough IF you get good-excellent through shop ventilation.

Another option (one I would definitely do myself) would be a commercial powered system or a DIY like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cX-glTu6tz0&t=11s

If your going to use a positive airflow system with paints and vapor its better to have the air inlet outside the spray area.

Hobby air makes a good one with a 80ft hose . Keep your eyes and skin covered body absorbs chemicals that way to

[Jim70Chevy]

Sprayed my first area with the new compressor and spray gun. What a HUGE difference it makes over the preval sprayers I was using. Nowhere near professional but since this is only between the cab and bed it doesn't have to be. With luck it will never see the light of day again. At least now that area will be white to match the truck.

I am now excited to get to spraying the rest of the truck.

[Ptjsk]

Originally Posted by Jim70Chevy

Sprayed my first area with the new compressor and spray gun. What a HUGE difference it makes over the preval sprayers I was using. Nowhere near professional but since this is only between the cab and bed it doesn't have to be. With luck it will never see the light of day again. At least now that area will be white to match the truck.

I am now excited to get to spraying the rest of the truck.

Good job Jim!

I've done three cars now and still learn. But it is very doable! I did my '72 Jimmy and am very happy with the results.

But....I have a "ton" of hours into prep work!

Each one cost me at least 4k in materials alone. But happy with the results.

Feel free to give me a shout anytime. I'm just over the hill from you, just above Placerville.

Pat