Alternator

[jradford]

What do I need to do to convert to an internally regulated alternator? I notice voltage is all over the place when the truck is running. I guess I could replace the voltage regulator but probably a good time to just get rid of it. 72 Special Camper with a 350 if that make any difference. Thanks

[ZEKE68]

When I did mine, I bought a conversion engine harness from I think the Truck Shop. As well as the new alternator.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by jradford

What do I need to do to convert to an internally regulated alternator? I notice voltage is all over the place when the truck is running. I guess I could replace the voltage regulator but probably a good time to just get rid of it. 72 Special Camper with a 350 if that make any difference. Thanks

You already have an internally regulated alternator. Your gauge indicates charge/discharge. Does the needle go back and forth between "C" and "D", or what? Have you replaced some equipment with a voltmeter?

[bill3rail]

You can buy an adapter to change from old style to newer style connector on the back of the alternator. And a plug that goes on the wire leading to your regulator.

Install an internally regulated alternator, Delco 10SI, install both connectors as shown below.

[VetteVet]

Here is one way to do it.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601025

[rpmerf]

There are a couple guides. Here's how I did mine.

12SI from some 80's GM car. 9:00

According to http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml
12SI, 94 amp, at 9:00 (AC-DELCO # 321-269, Lester #7294-9) - Tell the auto parts counter person that “The alternator is for a 1985 Buick Riviera, 5.0L (307Y engine), with Heavy Duty options and Air Conditioning.”

You have 3 wires.
The big lug goes to the junction block with 8 or 10 gauge wire.
The left spade goes to the brown wire that previously went to your voltage regulator
The right spade goes to the junction block. This is a reference, so 16 or 18 gauge should be fine.
I also used a ground wire. There is a ground bolt on the case, I attached the wire to the block there the alt bracket attaches.

You can remove the rest of your voltage regulator wiring.

There are jumpers that allow you to leave your factory harness unmolested. I preferred the simplified wiring, heavier gauge wiring, cleaner look.

EDIT: Wanted to add that my alternator had a metric top bolt. 10 x 1.25? I had to grind the bracket for it to fit and be able to move.

[rpmerf]

Here are the images of my install

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by rpmerf

There are a couple guides. Here's how I did mine.

12SI from some 80's GM car. 9:00

According to http://www.madelectrical.com/electri...elcoremy.shtml
12SI, 94 amp, at 9:00 (AC-DELCO # 321-269, Lester #7294-9) - Tell the auto parts counter person that “The alternator is for a 1985 Buick Riviera, 5.0L (307Y engine), with Heavy Duty options and Air Conditioning.”

You have 3 wires.
The big lug goes to the junction block with 8 or 10 gauge wire.
The left spade goes to the brown wire that previously went to your voltage regulator
The right spade goes to the junction block. This is a reference, so 16 or 18 gauge should be fine.
I also used a ground wire. There is a ground bolt on the case, I attached the wire to the block there the alt bracket attaches.

You can remove the rest of your voltage regulator wiring.

There are jumpers that allow you to leave your factory harness unmolested. I preferred the simplified wiring, heavier gauge wiring, cleaner look.

EDIT: Wanted to add that my alternator had a metric top bolt. 10 x 1.25? I had to grind the bracket for it to fit and be able to move.

Here is a visual guide.




He'll also need this.



I would go with the CS 130 which is more plentiful.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

You already have an internally regulated alternator. Your gauge indicates charge/discharge. Does the needle go back and forth between "C" and "D", or what? Have you replaced some equipment with a voltmeter?

I don't think his alternator is internally regulated. They didn't come out until 74 in most cases. What the factory did do and it fooled me for a long time, is that they came out with a SI style case but the terminals were like this I I instead of like the real internally regulated SIs which are like this. - - . 71 was the first year of that style I believe.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

I don't think his alternator is internally regulated. They didn't come out until 74 in most cases. What the factory did do and it fooled me for a long time, is that they came out with a SI style case but the terminals were like this I I instead of like the real internally regulated SIs which are like this. - - . 71 was the first year of that style I believe.

I was thinking '71 was the start of internally regulated alternators. My mistake.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

I was thinking '71 was the start of internally regulated alternators. My mistake.

Don;'t feel bad I almost lost a $20 on it until I saw the regulator still mounted and wired up down on the radiator support.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

Don;'t feel bad I almost lost a $20 on it until I saw the regulator still mounted and wired up down on the radiator support.

Yeah, when people want to bet you on something, it likely means they know something that you don't, if they initiate the bet. What I don't like is giving out bad information. It just muddies the water, and the poor guy trying to fix his truck is left scratching his head about who is right.

[lil hoodlum]

Subscribed, as I think I'll be needing this information soon.

[body bolt]

Connect terminal #2 of the alternator to BAT along with the battery wire. Unplug the harness at the external regulator and connect terminal #1 of the alternator to the brown wire on the harness you unplugged. That's it. You don't need to buy a harness.

[garyd1961]

I wanted to clean my engine bay up and didn't like the old wiring harness hanging across my motor since I moved my alternator so I just eliminated the old harness and made my own.
I ran my hot wire to a junction block I placed on the firewall and from there to the hot post on my starter. I ran the control wire ( or whatever it's called) to the brown wire on the plug on my firewall. I then looped the sensor wire to the hot wire on back of the alternator. I was planning to move the sensor wire to the hot block on the firewall but never did it. Been running it this way for five years so don't see any reason to change it now.

[gmc684x4]

Look through the Post on the electrical section on here like the link posted by Vic vette

I first did this on my 68 30 odd years ago no forum went and pulled a sqb harness apart and seen what I needed to change on my truck and changed it to a 10 Si

Now thinking do i want that 12 S1 in my new truck or upgrade it to the even better Cs130 Alt I have both are like new depends on which water pump I want to use as my cs 130 is a serpentine setup