Make it handle

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by cjohnson6772

Thanks for the reply SCOTI. I was hoping that you might weigh in since it seems like you have been into the C10 handling scene for a long time and have a lot of good experience.

My thinking is that the Durango is a considerably heavier vehicle with a 5x5 bolt pattern by default. Could easily sub in Jeep Wrangler hubs which would have the same BP, be very common place, and have certainly been proven to withstand abuse. While the Vette is good for racing a 3300 lb car, I'm not sure it is the best for a 4,000 lb C10 and it requires custom bolt pattern to be drilled.

True. There's a big difference between Vette vs truck weights; especially on the front hub. I know my research on comparable aftermarket high end spindles suggested there is a tug-o-war going on about the reliance of sealed bearings.

The spindles using the C5/6/7 sealed bearing set-ups recommend only using the top tier Zr1 parts because of short life span on alternative replacement parts. Those suckers are ~$400 a pop; pricy if you're replacing things more frequently. Thus the old stand-by wheel bearings w/their easy serviceability & 'common-folk' friendly purchase price are a value to those that have limited resources.

I see value in both. But, w/o having first-hand exposure on the lifespan of unit-bearings I'm @ a disadvantage of how 'worthy' they are in the scheme of things (return on investment).

I know that taller upper ball joints were discussed earlier in the threads with good results so I was after a similar after. While it is taller for 60s GM, these spindles are super short compared to a modern truck spindle. The modern ball joint arrangement may be a good option. I see so many new cars where the upper ball joint is basically on top of the tire!

I have tall upper BJ's on my C10's. I just know from my previously mentioned research that the disc brake style C10 spindles were taller than most for their era. From my notes:

67-72 A/F/X/& G body 'short' spindles ~7-7.5"
70-81 F/B-body & 73-87 C10 'tall' spindles ~9"
C4 Vette ~11"
ATS & Wilwood aftermarket spindle ~9"

*I can confirm the 73-87 C10, G-body, & C4 Vette spindle heights as I own them & actually measured for the research when trying to source something better for a g-body. The other numbers were from online look-up & could be suspect/incorrect.

I agree on the forging being a better option for long life. It just seems cost prohibitive unless large orders. Wondering out loud if a billet aluminum machined spindle could be designed for sufficient strength and life. I know DSE'S new upright is forged but not sure about Wilwood Pro Spindle.

This is true & apparently time consuming (I'm still waiting for ATS spindles paid for in June). The ATS spindle is forged & I believe the Wilwood is as well. But, even the forged versions have an expected lifespan (x-miles/x-years) before they SHOULD be replaced. It's a limitation most don't even think about for their steel spindles

My biggest complaint with aftermarket options currently available is lack of a spindle with bolt on arm for tuning and also lack of "off the shelf" bolt on sealed hub in 5x5 bolt pattern. There has to be a way to incorporate those features and I figured that I may as well improve other geometry at the same time if possible.

I confess I haven't really studied the Wilwood spindle because I'm a fan of being able to source the parts used from OE applications (Have a brake part issue in Podunk, TX. Pop into Oreillys/Auotzone/Advance Auto & ask for a Wilwood pad/caliper/master cyl/hose etc....). However, you can usually do the same for PBR & Brembo parts & they'll have something.

I'm 100% w/you on a spindle designed for optimum set-points of the geometry & tuning for the steering. I'm on the fence about the sealed hubs being 'better'. I assumed they were until reading about the alarming failure rate for typical store-bought replacement parts.