Chewed up wiring harness, what would you do?

[cwcarpenter98]

I have a dilemma, and would like to get some input on the situation.
The 81 I'm getting has a ton of wires chewed through under the hood, and I need to make it right. Everything in the cab seems fine as I didn't see any rats nest material in the cab. I don't know what the wires look like under the bed and such, but I wouldn't be surprised if some have been chewed.

Goals for the truck is to keep it mostly stock. Maybe I'll swap to a 4 barrel and throw a cam in the 305. Definitely thinking about lowering it some. I don't have plans or a desire right now to LS swap. If I do decide to engine swap, it'll most likely stay sbc powered because I like them

So what would y'all do?

[mongocanfly]

Holy cow...now that theres a rats nest...or squirrels...or whatever
as old as the truck is , I'd be tempted to just replace all the wiring, inside and out..theres no telling what all kinda po stuff went on inside the cab as well..
Then itll be all new and no worries..

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Holy cow...now that theres a rats nest...or squirrels...or whatever
as old as the truck is , I'd be tempted to just replace all the wiring, inside and out..theres no telling what all kinda po stuff went on inside the cab as well..
Then itll be all new and no worries..

Yeah, definitely was something large up in there for awhile!

I guess I should have mentioned that this truck has had zero modifications that I have been able to find from the previous owners. There's no aftermarket accessories added to the interior. It's also a possibility that the truck only has 57k miles based on the previous owner's story. It's also possible that it's been 157k, but either way, was definitely kept in good condition until it got parked for 20 years in a field.

I was very surprised that the engine would still crank with the "key". Can't find the key currently, but the ignition cylinder was still able to turn and it turned the engine over Also, the battery warning light came on and the door buzzers still worked.

I got 12 volts to the distributor, but as seen in the second picture, the distributor wires were chewed through, so no spark out to the chewed up spark plug wires.

[JJH Jimmy]

If the wire harness under the dash is good there is no reason to replace it. An aftermarket wiring harness like american auto wire is going to cost close to $1000. I would either build your own or buy an engine bay harness.

If the truck is truly untouched building your own would be fairly simple. I just built one for my K20 and probably have $100 in it. I got good automotive GXL wire from wirebarn.com and delphi terminals from amazon. You will have to buy the delphi crimpers for the terminals.

[JJH Jimmy]

Also, i didn't vote because I wouldn't buy a new harness and finding a good used engine harness will be next to impossible!

[Dead Parrot]

My vote of used was based on finding a good use harness. That is getting harder as the supply of decent salvage yard squares is about done. A big problem with used is getting a harness that is a good match to your truck's equipment.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

If the wire harness under the dash is good there is no reason to replace it. An aftermarket wiring harness like american auto wire is going to cost close to $1000. I would either build your own or buy an engine bay harness.

If the truck is truly untouched building your own would be fairly simple. I just built one for my K20 and probably have $100 in it. I got good automotive GXL wire from wirebarn.com and delphi terminals from amazon. You will have to buy the delphi crimpers for the terminals.

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

Also, i didn't vote because I wouldn't buy a new harness and finding a good used engine harness will be next to impossible!

I didn't think about building my own engine harness. That's definitely something I'll need to look into. How much wire did you need to finish your K20?

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

My vote of used was based on finding a good use harness. That is getting harder as the supply of decent salvage yard squares is about done. A big problem with used is getting a harness that is a good match to your truck's equipment.

Definitely a challenge, especially since I'm going to need a harness for an 81 or 82 truck with A/C

[JJH Jimmy]

This should get you close
25’ of red 12 ga
25’ of red 10 ga
25’ of purple 12 ga
Multiple color pack of 14 ga
Mouser ring terminal kit
Packard 56 and 59 male and female terminals
Couple feet of 16 ga fusible link wire
Assortment of shrink tube
Wire loom
Harness tape

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

This should get you close
25’ of red 12 ga
25’ of red 10 ga
25’ of purple 12 ga
Multiple color pack of 14 ga
Mouser ring terminal kit
Packard 56 and 59 male and female terminals
Couple feet of 16 ga fusible link wire
Assortment of shrink tube
Wire loom
Harness tape

Thank you!

[Dead Parrot]

Consider getting one of these to replace the existing junction point. Out of a 90's truck. Get the associated wires as well for the factory fusible links. Bonus of a heavier main alt wire if you upgrade to a 90+ amp 12SI. This was about $10 from the local Pull-a-Part a couple of years ago.

[bhc41051]

An OEM style engine harness is $288 from American Autowire. https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...harness-143825

[Getter-Done]

Check out this place.
They are probably pretty close to you.

Coach Controls, Inc.
4250 Spring Place Rd SE
Cleveland, TN 37323

I made a visit down there.
The guy is very Knowledgeable.

Link: https://coachcontrols.com/index.php?...index&cPath=41

[kwmech]

I would just rewire it myself from the bulk head out. Not much wiring needed to make it run.

[cwcarpenter98]

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Consider getting one of these to replace the existing junction point. Out of a 90's truck. Get the associated wires as well for the factory fusible links. Bonus of a heavier main alt wire if you upgrade to a 90+ amp 12SI. This was about $10 from the local Pull-a-Part a couple of years ago.

Good to know, thanks.

Originally Posted by bhc41051

An OEM style engine harness is $288 from American Autowire. https://www.americanautowire.com/sho...harness-143825

I did see that, but when you also add the $275 for the headlight harness that also has rodent damage, that makes it a little tougher to pull the trigger on it.

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

Check out this place.
They are probably pretty close to you.

Coach Controls, Inc.
4250 Spring Place Rd SE
Cleveland, TN 37323

I made a visit down there.
The guy is very Knowledgeable.

Link: https://coachcontrols.com/index.php?...index&cPath=41

Thanks, that's also an option to consider.

Originally Posted by kwmech

I would just rewire it myself from the bulk head out. Not much wiring needed to make it run.

I'm thinking about it, but definitely a back burner project for now, so I have plenty of time to think

[Pontiac1976]

(JJH Jimmy)If the wire harness under the dash is good there is no reason to replace it. An aftermarket wiring harness like american auto wire is going to cost close to $1000. I would either build your own or buy an engine bay harness.

If the truck is truly untouched building your own would be fairly simple. I just built one for my K20 and probably have $100 in it. I got good automotive GXL wire from wirebarn.com and delphi terminals from amazon. You will have to buy the delphi crimpers for the terminals.

I agree part one, part two most of that I would go along with since Canada have not used wirebarn.com so I would take his word no that.
Now I would unplug engine connector @ the firewall disconnect un clip all clips unplug all connector unbolt starter, ALT, sensor plug sending units. then buy or get wire in lengths to match the harness you took of. Make sure you mark all the wire and where go and take pic before and after the wire run. Now if your putting in a LS then you will have to mod your factory engine harness any way. As far as I know you can not get the engine firewall end connector you will have to de-pin that one reuse it.

https://bowtieguy.proboards.com/thre...ness-bulk-head

https://bowtieguy.proboards.com/thre...d-lights-front

This may help you or not.