Dumb question but I did a search LOL

[HYPR]

Originally Posted by Joyridin

The L83 is an LT engine. Lots...and I means LOTS of differences in the engine, hose location, etc. You can use the A/C compressor on an LT engine. There is an very easy way to bypass the variable input and make it turn on/off like a traditional compressor. They changed much of the front of the engine, so if he is using the original serpentine set-up on the L83, more than likely a LS radiator will not work.

Doing a LT has not been done thousands of times. Actually, it is pretty rare due to the tuning needed and all the stupid changes GM made to the engine.

Thanks for all that. Yep I’m learning a lot about the LT vs LS. Some real challenges. I spoke with Chris at PSI assured me they will help me get through this as they have lots of experience with the LT swaps. I am also not looking forward to dealing with the intake plumbing and MAF. Regarding the AC, yep I spoke with Vintage Air and they warned me about the compressor. Some thing about the system getting it’s operating commands from the BCM programming that makes it run full-time and freezing up the system. Good to hear that there is a fix by eliminating the body control module which makes the air condition work that way. I had looked at my Sanden LD 7 in my ‘56 and if needed that would fit if I can get one with either the correct pulley or a 7 rib which will work fine. I will bring that up with PSI disabling the command from the BCM, great advice. Regarding the gauge cluster I have pretty much decided I’m going with New Vintage as they assured me their system will take all the commands from the ECM plus speed control from the 6L90E so no need to go GPS on the Speedo. Regarding the radiator, I had already decided to just go with a traditional driver side inlet and passenger side outlet. I can get an off the shelf unit fabricate a fan shroud for a set of spall 12 inch and use a Dakota Digital fan controller like in my blown ‘56. For the outlet hose it is a simple matter of 3-90’s and two pieces of stainless tubing using shrink clamps. All that is need is brackets to hold it all in place running below the fan shroud. I can build the entire radiator for well under $1500 using a quality US made off the shelf radiator with driver’s side inlet and passenger side outlet plus AT cooler built in. All that is needed is to add the steam port which is no big deal. Plus the advantage is I won’t need to wait up to 12 weeks for it (build time quotes from two different vendors). Thank you guys for all the input and advice.