Thermostat temps

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by CSchmidt

Fans and Radiator are champion brand and are fairly new like 2 years old. I did go back to 160 thermostat and is driving good and not overheating bit am I using the right TempStat? With my fans?

Also will move temp sending unit to block and see what happens but might be after the holidays.

Temp sending unit was in the driver's side cylinder head from the factory.

Gary

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by body bolt

With a 180F tstat and the engine is running at 210F, how is the tstat regulating? It's wide open and out of the loop. And of course it allows the engine to reach operating temperature quicker because at less than 180F it's inhibiting the flow of coolant through the radiator until it opens. That's what it is for.

Franken is absolutely correct.

I agree. It's pretty straightforward. However, this particular t-stat may be sticking before it fully opens. Since it's the only thing that was changed prior to the problem, it needs to be tested in boiling water on the stove. If it doesn't open before the water starts bubbling, then it's not working as a 180 t-stat.

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I agree. It's pretty straightforward. However, this particular t-stat may be sticking before it fully opens. Since it's the only thing that was changed prior to the problem, it needs to be tested in boiling water on the stove. If it doesn't open before the water starts bubbling, then it's not working as a 180 t-stat.

I agree with that.

[body bolt]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

You & Franken are quite wrong. Go ask a mechanic, an engineer or even Google what a thermostat does.

I am a mechanic and engineer. Perhaps if I use Google I'll come across your opinion.

[67 twins]

Originally Posted by body bolt

I am a mechanic and engineer. Perhaps if I use Google I'll come across your opinion.

So tell me sir what company do you work for as an engineer. I want to make sure not to buy any of their products. If you don't understand what a thermostat does, I can't trust your engineering ability!

[68 P.O.S.]

Originally Posted by MikeB

I agree. It's pretty straightforward. However, this particular t-stat may be sticking before it fully opens. Since it's the only thing that was changed prior to the problem, it needs to be tested in boiling water on the stove. If it doesn't open before the water starts bubbling, then it's not working as a 180 t-stat.

This!


And as I stated before, your fans need to turn on at least 10 degrees before your t-stat rating.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

So tell me sir what company do you work for as an engineer. I want to make sure not to buy any of their products. If you don't understand what a thermostat does, I can't trust your engineering ability!

Well, that's just a little childish!

And I still don't understand the disagreement. You said the t-stat's job is: "to REGULATE the temperature of the coolant." Others have said that once the coolant temp soars up to 210, there is no regulation happening at all. Both of you are correct!

In the OP's case, I would normally say his cooling system isn't up to the task, but we know it worked OK with another t-stat. And since there were NO other changes, the only conclusions we can draw is the new t-stat is NOT fully opening, or the coolant level is very low.

Let's see, what else?

Is ambient temperature the same before and after the t-stat change?
Was the coolant temp sender or gauge changed?
Any changes to the radiator fan or shroud?

To the OP: When you find the problem, please get back to us.

And to the rest of you: If you don't agree with me, Im gonna take my ball and go home!

[sixty8HDC30]

Originally Posted by 67 twins

So tell me sir what company do you work for as an engineer. I want to make sure not to buy any of their products. If you don't understand what a thermostat does, I can't trust your engineering ability!

They used the "lighting up a smoke" emoji so you know they are correct and you are dismissed now.
Dude's so right about this, I bet They've never been wrong in their life.

[IIGW]

Originally Posted by CSchmidt

Fans .

i dont know where you live.

But go get on loop 101 and drive 15 miles one way, tunr around and go back home.

For those not in PHX, loop 101 usually runs about 75 mph constanlty, up to like 95 mph.

a good 15 mile drive will get your engine up to operating temp and at around 75 mph there is no need for any fans to be on.

This will completley stabilize your engine temp. -what does the engine temp gauge read while driving this distance?

This test will tell you hw efficient your system is while driving.
-now be aware, on my v8 s10, i would overheat above 65 mph. What i found out is i had a bubble form under my truck in the engine compartment and no cool air was going through my rad. it was recirculating the air out of the rad under the truck and up into the rad again. If i slowed down, instant cool down to correct 200 temp.. i sped up to 70 itd heat up to 230 quickly.

SO, for your truck, you have to do several tests to figure out what and where your issue is.

Simplest is the freeway test.

Report back and let us know what your temps at speed are. Dont drive 2 miles, go the full at least 15.

When I do test runs, i go from my home i17 bell road up to cave creek and back. Thats almost a good two hour drive there and back, and roughly 30 miles one way.

[CSchmidt]

It's my water pump slowly going out. Purged the system again today and looked at the hoses really good and see some coolant coming from the seep hole on the water pump leaking onto the lower rad hose. Thanks for all of your suggests and support through this post.i appreciate it

Chris

[1967GMCC20]

In my 67 C20 with 402BBC TH400, I run 3 core radiator, 180 high flow stat, clutch fan, Shroud. I can Drive it a distance 20mi plus, it runs at 185F, sit and idle, will slowly creep up to 195, drive and its right back to 185. but ambient Temps are below 90deg F in Summer past 2 yr. Pleased with the cooling sys. Still have room for 4core, but may not need it, unless I was in TX, AZ. CA. high ambient...

My cooling system is basically OEM... no elec fans, no Alum rad, trans cooler in rad. It works as designed.

[Joyridin]

Here are a few things to try: 1) Take the old thermostat and the new one and test them in boiling water with a thermometer. When the water hits 160, the old one should open. When it hits 180, the new one should open. If they both do, then it isn't the thermostat. 2) Check the radiator. I don't know how old it is, but could it be plugged? Usually a plugged radiator will make the vehicle run hot while cruising down the road, but will idle at normal temps. 3) Collapsed hose? Rare, but it happens. Usually the lower hose because it is neglected the most. 4) Last, remove the overflow tube on the radiator and attach a piece of hose. Fill a beer bottle about half way with water and put the hose in the bottle in the water. Start the engine from cold and watch the bottle. You will get a few bursts of bubbles. This is the thermostat opening and closing until the engine get to temp. After that, is should stop. If it does not, you have an engine problem, most likely a blown head gasket and it is allowing gasses to enter the cooling system.

[1967GMCC20]

How I check guages. Can do thermostats as well.

[1967GMCC20]

Conduit nuts fit nice on senders.

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by 1967GMCC20

Conduit nuts fit nice on senders.

Great idea hanging them, instead of setting them in the pan! Keeps the metal pan bottom out of the loop.